Hi - Yes exactly I think that it’s develops a fault but functions so just enough to throw the P164E00 code as an electrical fault. This is the time to change it before it throws an engine light or goes into limp mode!
 

On my 2016 Superb 150hp CRLB 2.0 Tdi - I initially bought the wrong oil pressure valve  04L906455A 

I do believe this fits the 1.6tdi. 

I’ve ordered the 04L906455B version after my mechanic told me via the flat castle like back one. I believe from reading 04L906455J version is same as the B version. But the A version is not compatible it’s a rounded back and different o ring position. 

 

Best to check with a mirror or removing the undercover - it lives right below the dipstick behind the back of the compressor. This is right on the front engine towards the bumper side - but very low down so it’s almost impossible to see from the top. 

 

I have see a YouTube video on replacing it by unhooking the serpentine belt off the compressor and removing 3 bolts off the compressor mount and I think 2 pipe connections to the compressor. The bold for the sensor is said to be T30.

 

Normally I would do this myself as a 6-7/10 DIY but I only had the car a month and haven’t removed the side wheel cover etc to remove the serpentine belt yet. so I’m giving it to the mechanic it’s not completely  easy as they can break. So take your time and use a mole grip to pull it out.
 

I’ll update when it’s done. If you PM me I can get hold of these OEM if anyone wants one PM me. £150 dealer can post out one for £95. PM me.. part no. 04L906455B or 04L906455J

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by M_Shaz

Hi! just an updated idea - it might be possible to replace the oil pressure valve in the EA288 engines just by removing the top right pipe on the compressor (green circle) not sure what that bolt is  and then removing the solenoid valve (red arrow) T30 see pic of used engine I found online. See how you get on and pls let us know if you can do it this way. I might take a shot as this next few weeks as I have this visual now. Good luck!

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by M_Shaz

That Looks a real pain, I really don’t want to be having to evacuate the air con and having it filled up again. I think leaving the pipes on the compressor and moving the whole thing would be a much better idea if that is possible. 

1 minute ago, SuperbTWM said:

That Looks a real pain, I really don’t want to be having to evacuate the air con and having it filled up again. I think leaving the pipes on the compressor and moving the whole thing would be a much better idea if that is possible. 

I have seen a YouTube video that describes this type of engine I think and they didn’t remove any hoses just loosen the holding screws of the compressor. I not positive 100% about this but I’ll try to find that video and post it here. 

That’s should work - but you’ll have to remove the serpentine belt then unbolt the bolts holding the compressor i.e the top left and far right bolt and leave the bottoms left bolt loose enough to alow the compressor to swing down a bit and out a bit to get to the valve.
 

The other option is maybe try to remove it by feel as there might be just enough room to get to the T30 bolt out on the sensor and wiggle it out without disconnecting the compressor but it will be extremely close and you might be working blind. Hate working blind. Fun and games in this one until you do it once and they you know what it’s about. Keep us posted..!

 

Awaiting that video..!

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by M_Shaz

Just checked the Erwin Manual and it does indeed state that that you can just unbolt the compressor and get it out that way, its not much of a job taking the wheel arch liner out and taking the belt off.

 

T30 Torx @ 8NM and 25NM for the air con compressor bolts (3 off) if you are as anal as I am 😂

 

This is for a Passat so your results may vary

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by SuperbTWM

Ahh sounds good - so you mean just loosen bolts the compressor just loose enough to create  a gap to get to it?
 

What I really want to know if you can unhook the belt without removing the wheel arch although I’m sure it’s best to so you do remove the wheel arch and do a visual inspection it’s fitted correctly: Im my last car you didn’t need to jack up the car remove the wheel and wheel arch just to remove the belt - what a faff!

 

 

What size are the compressor bolts? Just as you’re so specific!! Not important though - I will be trying it without removing the compressor just incase that works first then worth a try.

 

Actual my mechanic is expected to do the job but I want to do it as you say it could be a common problem so leading to longterm damage or sudden failure or limp mode.
 

This oil pressure solenoid valve just like Like other vvt solenoids that go into the engine blocks only usually last 60-100K I expect. They will short or clog up at some point. I suspect there are many early CR tdi’s are just ready for replace one of these valves either because of age or more likely millage due to wear and tear really. 

First to do it gets a Marathon - I mean Snickers 😊

Edited 21 June, 20241 yr by M_Shaz

If it's anything like the mercedes the valve is all due to efficiency and won't do harm as it is. When it goes faulty you have good oil pressure. 

I did speak to a long-standing vw mechanic and he said after sometime they cause issues so it’s best to change them when you know you’ve got a code. We don’t want a check engine light just before a mot so that’s why I’m hoping to do this asap. I’m new to vw these engines are so hard in terms of space and access even though it a superb mk3 b8 type chassis.

I wish someone could just answer if you don’t need to remove the compressor as someone must have done a diy. It’s just pic here looks like plug and play because the compressor pipes are not connected.

10 hours ago, M_Shaz said:

Ahh sounds good - so you mean just loosen bolts the compressor just loose enough to create  a gap to get to it?
 

What I really want to know if you can unhook the belt without removing the wheel arch although I’m sure it’s best to so you do remove the wheel arch and do a visual inspection it’s fitted correctly: Im my last car you didn’t need to jack up the car remove the wheel and wheel arch just to remove the belt - what a faff!

 

 

I think you could do it without taking the arch liner off, its just a matter of getting to the tensioner with a spanner to remove the tension while you slide the belt off.

 

It states to remove the compressor and 'tie of to the right side'

 

@M_Shaz There are probably 2 options, remove the pipe from the compressor or remove the compressor. But as removing the pipe would mean evacuating the refirdgerant and replacing, it is not really an option due to time and cost

 

 

 

It seems that you have found the answer on how to do it. The described instructions are self explanatory  about loosing the ac compressor and replacing the valve. But guys, BE CAREFUL when you working with coolants, AC refrigerant circuits and ware PPE. It’s not worth to loose you sight or have skin or lung damage just to replace a valve. 

So, car in the air, under tray off, belt off, 3x13mm headed setscrews, compressor supported with cable ties and you have access to the valve now. 

20 minutes later…. T30 out, valve still stuck in engine. The valve will rotate but it seems to be stuck on what can only be the O ring. 
 

Good information - Try some grips on it like mole grips or plumbing type grips - 👍

Brute force, ignorance, and a set of Knipex Cobras and she’s out.  They must install it with the ‘O’ ring dry so it’s a pig to get out
 

04L 906 655 B £138 inc. VAT

 

Didn’t want to pay dealer prices but I ain’t doing this job twice. 

Edited 22 June, 20241 yr by SuperbTWM

Excellent job

2 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

So, car in the air, under tray off, belt off, 3x13mm headed setscrews, compressor supported with cable ties and you have access to the valve now. 

Excellent job. This is the worst case scenario of valve changing I believe. In my petrol Octavia it was way too easy. GJ. 

I think the issue is that the valve ported end spins freely from the solenoid coil end, so I thought because you could turn it in the hole it was breaking the O ring free in the bore but it wasn’t, just the coil end moves and you have no option but to just pull it out with a wiggling motion with some grips which is easier said than done. 
 

Hope that makes sense

 

The new one has a 25 Ohm coil, old one is 1200-1500 so a conclusive issue 
 

 

Edited 22 June, 20241 yr by SuperbTWM

Do you think it can be removed without undoing the compressor? 
..and what did you tie the cable ties to- to support it? 

Cheers 

48 minutes ago, M_Shaz said:

Do you think it can be removed without undoing the compressor? 
..and what did you tie the cable ties to- to support it? 

Cheers 

 I would say no, but you don’t have to remove the wheel or the arch liner. 15mm? spanner on the tensioner wheel to get enough slack on the belt and it comes off. 
 

cable tied through the outer cage of the alternator and then another through a random hole on the frame at the other side to keep it to the RHS of the car.