DIY Battery replacement on Skoda Scala

[foxdie2635]

Hi guys!

I have a 2019 1.5 TDI manual Skoda Scala, and my battery is dying. I was wondering to change it by myself but...I got stuck just at the beginning since I'm not able to remove it from the car 😅

A few questions:

1) Does anyone of you can give me some hints regarding the steps to follow?

2) Moreover, there's a sort of box with cables just on top of the battery (see pics) and I can't figure out how to remove it without breaking something..

3) Any suggestions for keeping the car settings or to avoid damages? I read the manuals but I didn't find any particular advise 😐

 

Thank you!

 

[rum4mo]

I've not got a 2019 Scala, but typically for a VW Group car, you will find that when a box is fitted above the battery, it is only clipped on to the battery and also the battery +VE terminal.

 

You can buy a "memory saver" that typically gets plugged into the OBD2 port/socket in front of the driver's position in the cabin.

 

My maybe sad worry is losing the MPG figures, if losing them does not bother you, then you don't have anything to worry about, when you fit the new battery, there will be warnings, but after driving the car a short distance should allow the electric steering to sort itself out, and operating the electric windows as per the owner's handbook should sort out the window endstop limits.

 

I have a smallish 19AmpHour HillBilly battery that is inside a case that is a jump starter and mobile 12V DC power source, so I connect a suitable lead between the OBD2 socket and that jump starter, switch it on, then remove the car's main battery - making sure that I cover the disconnected +VE terminal to keep it from contacting anything else.

 

A really good plan might be to replace that EFB with an AGM - then soon after doing that, get the new battery coded to the car - do that coding to the car even if replacing a "like for like" battery size and chemistry.

 

Edit:- from memory, pressing down at any clip and fitting a screwdriver into the slot in the clip should force it out and so release it.

Edited 25 April by rum4mo

[nta16]

@foxdie2635 how much is the battery dying?

 

Rather than replacing have you tried fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger, following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions.  A lower amp charger is generally better than a higher amp charger (see Owner's Manual).  If the battery is very low then the recharging could take a long time, many hours, so if you can't fully recharge the battery in one go do it in a couple of goes (or more) as close together as possible.  Time and patience are required, these are sometimes totally out of stock for some.

 

VWSkoda Owner's Manuals free pdf downloads. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

 

Do you fully know about the requirements with changing a car battery on a start/stop VW car?

 

Car batteries are one of the most over sold car parts and number cause of breakdown call outs, very rarely is the battery the at fault but it's use/abuse/neglect by the car's owner/driver.

 

Sometimes, perhaps often now, the car battery has had too much and/or too often use/abuse/neglect and can't be fully recovered for successful medium and longer term use but obviously I can't know if that's the case for your battery.

 

Good luck with whatever you decide, if you want more info, just ask.

 

Edited 25 April by nta16
ETA:

[foxdie2635]

Thanks for the suggestions @rum4mo!

Regarding the change from EFB to AGM, I've to admit that I'm a little bit scared of the programming part (I don't have the equipment and I'm scared of screwing everything 😅 ). Anyway, I'll look into that to figure out what's better  

 

@nta16 you got the point. Actually, the battery is not dead, the tension is moving around 12.3 - 12.4 after 3-4 days not using the car. Sometimes it seems like the car has a harder time starting so I decided to solve the problem in two ways:

1) I bought a charger and try to give a little "boost" at the battery. Hopefully, this will solve the issue. I bought the "Bosch C30 3.8 A": a little bit expensive compared to other solution but it seems to be designed also for this new type of battery so...I preferred to spend a little bit more and stay safe. Do you think is a good product for doing the job? Do you suggest me something different?

 

2) looking for the battery replacement in case option 1) doesn't solve the issue. I'm aware of the fact that the start/stop car are using different types of batteries (EFP or AGM), and now, with all the electronics onboard, this part became more important than the engine 😅 so...personally speaking, I hope that a good charge will solve the issue, but I'm preparing myself for the worst case scenario 🙂

 

I found a coupled of websites that gives you the right spare parts depending on your car (for example, autodoc). It seems that my car is using a 70Ah/760A battery (dimensions in cm are 278x175x190), like the Exide EL700. But I wasn't able to check it directly on my car due to that cover on top. Anyway, I'll check it before ordering the spare part (if needed).

 

Thank for the suggestions guys!

 

 

[Winston_Woof]

If you're an RAC member they will come to you and fit on the driveway including coding
(NB they will also do non members but price goes up by £45)

Other On the Drive fitting services may be available

https://www.racshop.co.uk/bosch-agm-battery-115-80ah-800-cca-l315-x-w175-x-h190-01-b13.html



https://www.rac.co.uk/batteryfittingservice

 

Edited 25 April by Winston_Woof

[nta16]

2 hours ago, foxdie2635 said:

Regarding the change from EFB to AGM, I've to admit that I'm a little bit scared of the programming part

That's easy, we can deal with that if required later.  It depends on a number of things to say if an AGM battery would be that much better than an EFB if you do preventative recharges and maintenance  with an appropriate charger.

 

The charger you have bought should do a good job of recharging a battery provided you select the correct mode, as often happens the writing in the instructions is slightly ambiguous.  Personally I'd not bother spending that much but if it's what you prefer it's money well spent particularly if it does the job well for many years (preferably decades) and you will need the charger in future even if you replace the battery or change cars (unless a much older car).

 

3.8A is a good level of amps for the charger but it does mean it can take many overs (overnight or more) to fully (or "fully") recharge the battery particularly if still fitted to the car.   70Ah = 7 amp by the VWSkoda Owner's manual formula, so 3.8A is well within (and better). 

 

Modern batteries are often fully sealed so you can't  look inside the 6 cells to look at the electrolyte ('water') level in each cell and see the state (at their top at least) of the plates so with modern chargers they can show fully recharged, and it is but not as when the battery was in good condition of health.  So you are in some respects working blind and having to fully trust electronics which isn't always a good idea.  Take little notice of the magic eye on a battery.  - https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/battery-glossary

 

2 hours ago, foxdie2635 said:

12.3 - 12.4 after 3-4 days not using the car.

This depending on what you are using to take this measurement, from where and when.  12.4v wouldn't be too bad on a battery at 4-5 years of use if you considered the measurement taken on the car with possibly 0.2-0.3v of the car's computers still running.  If you have some constant drain like "See me home" (or whatever it's called, to me totally unnecessary KESSY keys, something added to the car at long or constant drain then these could be very good readings.

 

Diesel engines take more from the battery to start so usually have a bigger battery to allow for this but are you sure it's the battery that is the cause of the harder starts as a battery that has got to the point of harder starts on a modern VW diesel car would be more difficult to fully recover and most likely nearer to being in terminal health and if left in this state of more difficult starts for a while next to proper "dead".

 

What is the service history of the car, has it had timely engine oil and filter changes, engine air filter changed ever, any other cleaning if required?  Any other faults or issues with the car?

 

As you are prepared to pay more to get more, if you are in the UK I would suggest you use something like Shell V-Power diesel fuel regularly (does not have to be every fill up) and at least a tankful before/during a service and/or MoT and a second tankful after/during a service and/or MoT , this of course would be in addition to all servicing maintenance.

 

I'm not a big fan of Autodoc for spares as they list too many options and ALL databases, including manufacturers have errors and omissions so ALL sources of information including manufacturers and posters on forums need to be checked and cross referenced against if possible two (hopefully) reliable other sources of information.

 

2 hours ago, foxdie2635 said:

It seems that my car is using a 70Ah/760A battery (dimensions in cm are 278x175x190),

That is not enough information to tell if the Exide EL700 is the correct battery for your model (it's 720A (EN rating)). - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Exide Light Vehicle Batteries 2023 Brochure.pdf

 

ETA: do you know if the Exide battery fitted to your car was the one fitted to the car when it left the factory or did it replace the original factory battery and if so do you know why?

 

If you give more information like the engine you have and your location we can pin things down more and be more accurate, as it is the Exide EL700 is what we in UK would mostly call a 096 EFB battery.  The N70 VARTA BLUE DYNAMIC EFB START-STOP CAR BATTERY 12V 70AH (570500076) TYPE 096 would be my personal choice (£117.81 inc P&P) which as you can see make the RAC price seem very high.  The RAC are also far too quick to sell new batteries when they are sometimes probably not needed.  115 AGM batteries - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/115-agm/

 

This is just an example of info, with yours you could put actual year or registration plate year if UK (19/69).

 

HTH.

Edited 25 April by nta16
ETA:

[Winston_Woof]

31 minutes ago, nta16 said:

 

 

If you give more information like the engine you have and your location we can pin things down more and be more accurate, as it is the Exide EL700 is what we in UK would mostly call a 096 EFB battery.  The N70 VARTA BLUE DYNAMIC EFB START-STOP CAR BATTERY 12V 70AH (570500076) TYPE 096 would be my personal choice (£117.81 inc P&P) which as you can see make the RAC price seem very high.  The RAC are also far too quick to sell new batteries when they are sometimes probably not needed.  115 AGM batteries - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/115-agm/

 

 

 

HTH.

Neve suggested the RAC price was the best, merely pointing out it is one option which includes fitting at home with coding as required. There are many other places offering similar services which some people may be happy to pay for. (and if you're proactively buying a battery from say the RAC then they are hardly forcing a new one on you are they?)

NB the exact same battery from Tanya tha the RAC is selling is £1454 inc delivery

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a11/

[nta16]

4 hours ago, Winston_Woof said:

Neve suggested the RAC price was the best, merely pointing out it is one option which includes fitting at home with coding as required. There are many other places offering similar services which some people may be happy to pay for. (and if you're proactively buying a battery from say the RAC then they are hardly forcing a new one on you are they?)

NB the exact same battery from Tanya tha the RAC is selling is £1454 inc delivery

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5a11/

Sorry I wasn't suggesting you were I thought exactly as you put that it was an option available and one that might appeal and be good for some.  I got interrupted a few times whilst typing the post and missed this bit out.

 

No one is forced to take up RAC offers of sale and installation but when the RAC are called out to breakdowns they do offer their batteries and installations as "distress purchases" rather than sometimes suggesting that the battery could be recovered successfully by fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions.  I've known a couple of case of this one was with a mate of mine, a story I've put on this site a few times at least now.  He should have known better as I'd told him about batteries before.  He declined the RAC battery and installation (not a stop/start or VW vehicle) and bought and fitted a new battery himself.  When I found out I offered to take the previous battery away and was confident of recharging it for successful use and he could keep it for use with the other vehicles in his fleet and/or as a 12v supply in his garage or sheds, which je did when I returned it.  It recharged very easily and confirmed a good state of health and drop testing.  Another battery that had been replaced prematurely.

 

Years earlier his IIRC 14 year old Toyota Supra at the time had to be jump started several times on a tour exhibition run day in France by my 37 year old MG Midget, no one would believe the MG was being used to jump started the Toyota and not the other way round.  Mind he left the Supra running that afternoon for about 3 hours on the road just in front of the cafe where they sat and it never missed a beat or overheated even thought the day was very hot.  He still had to buy a (very marginal, cheap) new battery at high cost that late afternoon at a local supermarket type place.  He blamed the previous Italian battery fitted to the Japanese car.  🙂

 

I spotted the (£1454 !) £154 (inc P&P) Tayna battery you linked to and it's included in the link I put up for 115 batteries on Tayna - but they are physically bigger batteries, 315 mm long against the 096 at around 280 mm long based on foxdie2635's given dimensions and the Exide EL700, I have no idea what battery tray space is available, or if 096 or 115 are appropriate batteries types for the Scala foxdie2635 has as I put there insufficient info for me at least to tell.

 

Edited 25 April by nta16