Just now, Itsrelfy said:

Mines the 190hp version. Not sure if it would make a difference. 

Aha, gasoline then? Do you know the engine code and gearbox code?

Just now, rbhelle said:

Aha, gasoline then? Do you know the engine code and gearbox code?

No, mine is a diesel. TDI 190. 2.0 diesel. Manual transmission. 

7 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

Try this: Luk 600 0371 00 on autodoc.

That's the sort of thing I would like, just can't seem to find one. I can't really imagine the 150 and 190 diesels have a different clutch and flywheel. 

2 minutes ago, Itsrelfy said:

That's the sort of thing I would like, just can't seem to find one. I can't really imagine the 150 and 190 diesels have a different clutch and flywheel. 

Depends on the gearbox, but yours is a manual and it is likely a MQ350 box due to max torque. So, to give an precises answer if I am to check, I need your VIN nr. Only that is the only way to actually locate correct partnr as a set.

Is it 4x4?

8 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

Depends on the gearbox, but yours is a manual and it is likely a MQ350 box due to max torque. So, to give an precises answer if I am to check, I need your VIN nr. Only that is the only way to actually locate correct partnr as a set.

Thanks for looking. I think my vin is TMBBJ7NP4G7012383

1 minute ago, Itsrelfy said:

Thanks for looking. I think my vin is TMBBJ7NP4G7012383

Correct VIN.

Well, it looks like you need to buy dmf as single part yes.

Anyway, this Luk fits: LuK 624 4052 09 since your OE number is 04L 141 015 G for clutch and pressureplate

Flywheel is OE number: 04L 105 266 A, and that means this Luk fit: LuK 415 0964 10

But you need release bearing/slave cylinder as well, and that is OE nr 0A5 141 671 S which is Luk part nr.LuK 510 0176 10

You have MQ350 gearbox, but it seems that the 190hp version demands another flywheel than the 150hp version. So, unfortunately it is pretty damn expensive car you got. But hey, if one likes to drive a 190hp I guess one has the ability to also maintain it 🙂 (last is a joke ok)

My gearbox guy didn't rate Sachs at all, LUK all the way, just something to be mindful of.

10 minutes ago, Steviedakota said:

My gearbox guy didn't rate Sachs at all, LUK all the way, just something to be mindful of.

Yeah, it all comes down to "whats in it for the company" etc I guess. Some dealers have good prices on either or the other. Sachs can be cheap or expensive

28 minutes ago, Steviedakota said:

My gearbox guy didn't rate Sachs at all, LUK all the way, just something to be mindful of.

There is a big price variance between Luk and Sachs. I assumed both would be comparable in terms of quality. Maybe that's not the case. 

7 minutes ago, Itsrelfy said:

There is a big price variance between Luk and Sachs. I assumed both would be comparable in terms of quality. Maybe that's not the case. 

Both are same quality, so take whats cheapest. VAG use both in their factory line.

I have had opinionated mechanics telling me that they would never fit another Luk clutch again because they have had nothing but trouble with them and others parroting the same words about Sachs 😄

 

I know there was a problem with Sachs pressure plates installed in the factory during certain years of certain models but after that was resolved there is nothing to suggest that one manufacturer is better than the other for aftermarket clutch kits for the 2.0 TDi

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

I have had opinionated mechanics telling me that they would never fit another Luk clutch again because they have had nothing but trouble with them and others parroting the same words about Sachs 😄

 

I know there was a problem with Sachs pressure plates installed in the factory during certain years of certain models but after that was resolved there is nothing to suggest that one manufacturer is better than the other for aftermarket clutch kits for the 2.0 TDi

Have used and use both. No issues so far. Either dsg or manual. But in june last year I did get a new in box faulty Luk concetric slave cylinder, but didn't stop me from buying another Luk last week. **** happens to both Sachs and Luk, since I couple of months ago received a broken concentric Sachs slave cylinder new in box as well...

So yeah, what did I learn? Sometimes it is better to buy parts from local shop in norway rather than from Autodoc. Their retur policy is cumbersome, at least from norway.

Got quoted 1200 from Mr clutch. I thought that was pretty good. Don't say what make of parts would be used though. 

Mine has been in today to local VAG specialist. They stayed true to their quote of £890 fitting a new Luk clutch kit plus new flywheel. Said it took about 2 hours to do and shouldn't take much longer for someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Only driven it a few miles so far, but gear changes are so much smoother and I never noticed they were that bad before! Car drives off like it should now. Well pleased. 

1 minute ago, Superbsport said:

Mine has been in today to local VAG specialist. They stayed true to their quote of £890 fitting a new Luk clutch kit plus new flywheel. Said it took about 2 hours to do and shouldn't take much longer for someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Only driven it a few miles so far, but gear changes are so much smoother and I never noticed they were that bad before! Car drives off like it should now. Well pleased. 

Thats great! 890 gbp incl dmf and labour is a very decent price for Luk/Sachs! 2hours? Wow, that is very fast for one man on a 4x4 Skoda manual.

4 minutes ago, Superbsport said:

Mine has been in today to local VAG specialist. They stayed true to their quote of £890 fitting a new Luk clutch kit plus new flywheel. Said it took about 2 hours to do and shouldn't take much longer for someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Only driven it a few miles so far, but gear changes are so much smoother and I never noticed they were that bad before! Car drives off like it should now. Well pleased. 

Where was that. That's a great price. 

28 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

Wow, that is very fast for one man on a 4x4 Skoda manual.

 

Profile does not mention 4x4.

 

 2 hours labour is honest charging for the job on a manual, the main dealers probably charge double that plus a diagnostic charge yet if they do it under warranty VAG will pay them for only one hour, thats why most of the time when they begrudgingly accept a warranty claim they will only participate 50% after screwing the customer for the diagnostic charge.

 

18 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

Profile does not mention 4x4.

 

 2 hours labour is honest charging for the job on a manual, the main dealers probably charge double that plus a diagnostic charge yet if they do it under warranty VAG will pay them for only one hour, thats why most of the time when they begrudgingly accept a warranty claim they will only participate 50% after screwing the customer for the diagnostic charge.

 

Correct mine is not a 4x4 just standard front wheel drive 1.4 Tsi Sportline. Used a place in Bradford. First time I've used them, but won't be the last. 

On 12/02/2025 at 13:22, MarkyG82 said:

 

There's a fair amount that contributes to the charge.  Front desk staff need paying.  Site lease charges.  Electric costs.  Training of the staff (technical and non).  Insurances.  Service staff wage. Etc, etc.

The time taken for a pollen filter will be more like 1.5 hrs. 

Initial booking,

receiving the car for service,

moving the car into the bay,

getting the parts from stores,

FITTING,

waste of old filter,

putting car back into temp storage,

keys back to front desk,

call to customer for collection,

collection.  

 

This might all seem trivial but someone has to pay for it.  They are there to make money from us as car owners.  Makin sure it is done correctly is the most important thing and that takes training.  If you paid someone to change a filter and it was done wrong, one of the first things asked will be who did it and are they capable.

 

2 minutes ago, Superbsport said:

 

 

Correct mine is not a 4x4 just standard front wheel drive 1.4 Tsi Sportline. Used a place in Bradford. First time I've used them, but won't be the last. 

Oh, nice car. That explains the time for a trained mechanic. Fwd is pretty easy on VAG when it comes to labour. 4wd is a bit more worksteps. I did a 4x4 octavia manual diesel in 4hours and thought that was fast 🙂 I am not a professional mechanic, but have done som clutches now. When all goes well, no rust, no hassle with screws and nuts, I believe it is possible to do a 4x4 even down to 2,5-3hours for 1 man.

Hi everyone,

I have an issue with my Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI 190 (engine code DFC).

When I press the clutch pedal, I can hear a rattling / knocking noise, like something is loose or hitting inside. As soon as I release the clutch, the noise disappears completely.

The car also slightly shudders when pulling away, especially when the engine is at operating temperature.

Important note: the clutch kit and dual mass flywheel (Sachs) were replaced around 5000 km ago.

So I’m a bit concerned whether:

- the dual mass flywheel could already be faulty,

- something was not installed correctly,

- or if this could be something else like a release bearing or gearbox issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi @Nkl519

Mine used to shudder hence replacing it all and it's been fine since and I understand it was the flywheel at fault on mine. However, if you've had all that done and not done much mileage since, it could be as you suggest something not put back right. Have you spoken to who did it?