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Driver side electric window goes down but does not go back up

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Hi, 

 

My partner has a Skoda Fabia Mk3 2016 and in the last two months we've had a problem where the driver (right side) electric window will go down without issue, but does nothing when attempting to bring it back up. It is slightly intermittent. 99% of the time attempting to bring it up doesn't work, but 1% of the time it will kick into action and work again.

 

I took the door panel off with my dad yesterday and we can see/hear the motor moving when pressing the switch to bring the window down, but the motor doesn't do anything when pulling the switch back up. I've attached a video of us pressing it down first, then pulling it back up.

 

The passenger window on the left side works fine using the switch immediately next to the one that doesn't seem to do anything in the driver's door.

 

Anyone seen this before? I'd have thought if there was a problem with the motor it wouldn't go down either? So is this a problem with the switch? The wiring to the switch? Or something else?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

Quick thoughts.

 

What have you tried to sort this-

  • cleaning and lubricating window runner rubber channels (GT85 being my choice) in case of high physical resistance
  • synchronising window(s)
  • electrical contact cleaner or switch cleaner and lubricant (Super Servisol 10) on switch
  • perhaps GT85 on motor mech
  • check and clean connectors on switch and motor
  • meter switch and motor, connectors, pins wires
  • is this a one-touch switch or lift and hold
  • have you disconnected the car battery about two months ago
  • there might be a switch or summat within the motor
  • check, clean, lubricate cable mech
  • me out of thoughts, need a lie down

GT85s.jpg.61256e6b8db011b87ebe6e9e491d0751.jpg

servisolsuper10.jpg.0d4f8559c790e56580333d77d13ed276.jpg

 

 

  • Author

@nta16 Thanks for the response.

 

I'm not a car person at all so not got much further than taking the door panel off.

 

We’ve tried lubricating the rubber channels but it’s not made a difference.

It’s a lift and hold switch.

Car battery hasn’t been disconnected for a long time, certainly not within the last few months.

 

I've ordered some Servisol so will give that a go when it arrives. Thanks.

 

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There can be a dual relay arrangement in these units, which swap the polarity of the power to the motor, enabling up and down.  This dual relay can have one contact burnt that means it can still go one way, but not the other.  Relay will either be on a small circuit board within that assembly, or possibly remote, in another control unit.

2 hours ago, Castle03 said:

I'm not a car person at all so not got much further than taking the door panel off.

That's a good achievement, the motor, mechanism and electrics are car related obviously but also not entirely car stuff.  The Super Servisol 10 won't deal with burnt out contact but can be very useful on other jobs, as is the GT85 (and electrical contact cleaner) all of which I'd try just to get the window shut before disconnecting the switch at some point to stop the window being dropped until the issue is sort.

 

Obviously a wiring diagram, VW appropriate scan tool, bi-directional scan tool perhaps, all might be useful.

 

See here -  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

 

 

Good luck.

If you can find someone on the VCDS list near you they can watch the switch respond (or not) live.  I've changed plenty of VW window switches so maybe Skoda ones are no better.   The switch on my VW van used to mess about if it got splashed by rain.   I've got a cheap ebay one (£15 ish?) and it's been fine for the last 4 years so it might be worth just replacing the switch.  They usually just pop out by using a screwdriver on one end (can't remember which but a pic of a new switch will give the game away.     

Edited by Rheumy

Water was also a thought of mine (and the cold) and scan report and bi-directional testing hence the VCDS link.  GT85 also "drives out moisture from electrical systems" and "protects surfaces from water, rust and dirt" but of course it you'd also want to prevent the water getting in. - https://gt85.co.uk/product/gt-85-spray/

 

Pity about the manufacturer now, was originally British, but Coke can't own everything. 😆

 

  • Author

Hi all,

 

A positive update for everyone. Happy to report I managed to fix this yesterday!

 

I popped the switch out of the car and then removed it from the housing. Inside was a silicone cover with some contacts and a circuit board. There were a few black dots on the contacts, corrosion I assume? I used some isopropyl alcohol and cleaned both the silicone cover and the circuit board, then sprayed the board with the Servisol Super 10 (Kontakt) switch lubricant. Let it dry out then put the switch back together and back into the car. Worked instantly!

 

Like I said before, I don't know cars or electrics but hopefully I've used the correct terms with how I've described it. I've attached two photos of the bits before I cleaned them if anyone is interested or it helps anyone in the future.

 

Thank you to everyone that commented, really appreciate the input.

IMG_7805.jpeg

IMG_7804.jpeg

Well done.  So much servicing, maintenance and many repairs on cars, and other stuff, often just boils down to clean (and often lubricate).  I'm not sure you needed to use the switch cleaner lubricant after the cleaning but I doubt it will hurt and might help with microswitches.  Even clearing error codes with a scan tool is a type of cleaning, any good worker or tradesperson knows the value of cleaning.

 

I've got to take apart a TV remote and clean it up specifically the buttons and contacts and wanted to try putting some graphite on but the very small bottle of it I bought many years back was never returned by a neighbour and I couldn't ask for it back but walking to the shop the other day I saw a broken pencil on the grass verge, with no one around at all I decided to partly recycle its use to coat the remote buttons pad and then in to one of the tool boxes to supplement one of the ones that keep breaking in use.

 

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