Hello everyone,

i have noticed that my oil pan is leaking the tiniest bit. It's about 1 drop a day or so. I am quite confident it's the oil pan gasket and it seems like the composite pan tends to warp overtime.
I know i could get an OEM pan, gasket and whatnot but i am not in a hurry since i literally JUST done an oil change. Also, despite seeing steel or aluminium 3rd party options i don't want to **** around with RTV and have it end up in the pan.
Anyone experienced this? Common issue? Changing gasket good enough or nah?

Just to add, it's a VRS so EA888 Gen 3 engine.

Not a common issue really or there would be threads here often on it with people saying composite dumps trays have warped.   There are often cases of over tightening sump plugs.

17 hours ago, breaddownunder said:

Hello everyone,

i have noticed that my oil pan is leaking the tiniest bit. It's about 1 drop a day or so. I am quite confident it's the oil pan gasket and it seems like the composite pan tends to warp overtime.
I know i could get an OEM pan, gasket and whatnot but i am not in a hurry since i literally JUST done an oil change. Also, despite seeing steel or aluminium 3rd party options i don't want to **** around with RTV and have it end up in the pan.
Anyone experienced this? Common issue? Changing gasket good enough or nah?

I've experienced it on my near 90k gen 3. Got a replacement elring gasket for the plastic pan. Some new bolts don't hurt either as quite a few of mine were rusty. The gasket in mine was completely hard and compressed.

 

Another nice to have, is the o ring for the oil pickup so you can remove with the sump off and clean. I had one, but my screen was so clean I did not bother.

 

All the gaskets on my gen 3 are letting go, heat and age. Just did thd two ancillary bracket / oil cooler gaskets. Fun fun. Just like the thermostat all over again, probably worse actually..

 

Plus the upper timing Gasket   Plus the magnet o rings. Oh and a new oil cap!!! 

10 hours ago, TheClient said:

I've experienced it on my near 90k gen 3. Got a replacement elring gasket for the plastic pan. Some new bolts don't hurt either as quite a few of mine were rusty. The gasket in mine was completely hard and compressed.

 

Another nice to have, is the o ring for the oil pickup so you can remove with the sump off and clean. I had one, but my screen was so clean I did not bother.

 

All the gaskets on my gen 3 are letting go, heat and age. Just did thd two ancillary bracket / oil cooler gaskets. Fun fun. Just like the thermostat all over again, probably worse actually..

 

Plus the upper timing Gasket   Plus the magnet o rings. Oh and a new oil cap!!! 

I have been pretty lucky so far. This is a second hand car and it has been looked after well. Minor things i fixed were the drains in the doors as they were clogged up, entertainment unit wheel sticky and that's it. Water pump is not an issue and so is the rest of the drivetrain. Honestly, pan seems fine so i was trying to see if i could get away with just a new gasket. I wonder if updated gaskets are better since there are newer part numbers i can see online.

1 hour ago, breaddownunder said:

I have been pretty lucky so far. This is a second hand car and it has been looked after well. Minor things i fixed were the drains in the doors as they were clogged up, entertainment unit wheel sticky and that's it. Water pump is not an issue and so is the rest of the drivetrain. Honestly, pan seems fine so i was trying to see if i could get away with just a new gasket. I wonder if updated gaskets are better since there are newer part numbers i can see online.

Yes, as stated I have replaced gaskets including the pan. They compress and harden with heat and age. So long as the pan is not distorted, it will fix it. It's an easy job. I wouldn't worry about the revised part number, elring gaskets are fine but up to you.  A part number suffix can change for the most minor of things sometimes. 

 

If you haven't changed the thermostat and waterpump yet, I can guarantee you will do I'm afraid. They're not a lifetime design, even latest versions use plastic  shaft seals and other compromised detail. And they're so active they get a lot of adjustment from the actuator and ecu control. I don't know what mileage you're on but normally you can expect replacement by 70k miles at edit:  latest. But if it ain't broke yet, no need to mess with it unless you're in there for something else..... 

Edited 1 November, 20241 yr by TheClient

5 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Yes, as stated I have replaced gaskets including the pan. They compress and harden with heat and age. So long as the pan is not distorted, it will fix it. It's an easy job. I wouldn't worry about the revised part number, elring gaskets are fine but up to you.  A part number suffix can change for the most minor of things sometimes. 

 

If you haven't changed the thermostat and waterpump yet, I can guarantee you will do I'm afraid. They're not a lifetime design, even latest versions use plastic  shaft seals and other compromised detail. And they're so active they get a lot of adjustment from the actuator and ecu control. I don't know what mileage you're on but normally you can expect replacement by 70k miles at earliest. But if it ain't broke yet, no need to mess with it unless you're in there for something else..... 

Thank you, it is something i want to do at my next oil change. So far rest is good but i am ready for other things to be replaced anyway. Currently on 100k km so let's see.

I think its worth removing the undertray and looking at the sump.  If the drip is from the sump plug, then you might have an overtightened sump-plug.  Try replacing it with a new one and making sure it is only torqued up to 25 to 30nm.  On a genuine sump plug, it should have to correct value on it.  Officially, you are meant to have a new sump plug every service (quite often that doesn't always happen).  If the sump is leaking around the edges, then its new sump bolts and new sealant around the bottom of the engine block.  Clean off the oil sealant and make sure the mating surfaces are shiny/clean.  Torque up to the appropriate pressures.

39 minutes ago, varaderoguy said:

I think its worth removing the undertray and looking at the sump.  If the drip is from the sump plug, then you might have an overtightened sump-plug.  Try replacing it with a new one and making sure it is only torqued up to 25 to 30nm.  On a genuine sump plug, it should have to correct value on it.  Officially, you are meant to have a new sump plug every service (quite often that doesn't always happen).  If the sump is leaking around the edges, then its new sump bolts and new sealant around the bottom of the engine block.  Clean off the oil sealant and make sure the mating surfaces are shiny/clean.  Torque up to the appropriate pressures.

Like i said, i got the 2.0 TSI which has only half undertray and composite pan. There is definitely oil around the border of lower and upper pan. The plug is plastic, as you know.

6 hours ago, varaderoguy said:

I think its worth removing the undertray and looking at the sump.  If the drip is from the sump plug, then you might have an overtightened sump-plug.  Try replacing it with a new one and making sure it is only torqued up to 25 to 30nm.  On a genuine sump plug, it should have to correct value on it.  Officially, you are meant to have a new sump plug every service (quite often that doesn't always happen).  If the sump is leaking around the edges, then its new sump bolts and new sealant around the bottom of the engine block.  Clean off the oil sealant and make sure the mating surfaces are shiny/clean.  Torque up to the appropriate pressures.

No torque value on the plastic plugs, they have an o ring and bottom out when turned to fully closed. 

Edited 4 November, 20241 yr by TheClient
Typos

Arh - different answer then.  Was missing the bit about it being a composite pan.