Hello,

Today in the morning (6°C) I made my way to the car and tried to start it. I waited for 5 seconds and it didn't start so I canceled the attempt by pressing the button again (starter motor worked fine by the way). I tried to start the car 3 more times (once waiting for 10s)... nothing. I already had my phone out and a sad/****ed look on my face. Then I tried once more since the battery still seemed strong and the car started in 1s. Is this something to be worried about (fuel pump issues) ?? or should I first check the glow plugs? How to go about this issue?

Thank you in advance.

If you have VCDS or similar check if there is errors. Faulty crankshaft or camshaft sensor may cause this. Such problem is usually intermittent. May also be caused by the vvt system that these engines have, especially if you have older mk3 that have older vvt system (with visible 'pressure bank vessel'). Google these.

Hello @dustexe - welcome to the forum. 

 

We are missing several key pieces of information.  What engine are you using?  I'm assuming a TDI - based on the glow plugs comment.

What's the mileage?

Recent service history?

As @RattleWagon stated, we really need a VCDS or ODBEleven scan of the car.  Have a look at: https://obdeleven.com/products as its always useful to have this device available for all VAG cars.

4 hours ago, varaderoguy said:

Hello @dustexe - welcome to the forum. 

 

We are missing several key pieces of information.  What engine are you using?  I'm assuming a TDI - based on the glow plugs comment.

What's the mileage?

Recent service history?

As @RattleWagon stated, we really need a VCDS or ODBEleven scan of the car.  Have a look at: https://obdeleven.com/products as its always useful to have this device available for all VAG cars.

vrs TDI is mentioned in the thread title

Hello,

 

First sorry for my inactivity. Today I borrowed OBDEleven to read the fault codes on the car. There were some and I will list them bellow. Also I forgot about some info ("We are missing several key pieces of information") - engine is 2.0 TDI CUNA (184HP) with 160k km.

 

Fault codes:
ENGINE:

P060C00 (Internal control module main processor performance)

SOUND SYSTEM: 

B130C13 (double subwoofer speaker 1 - open circuit)

GATEWAY:

U140600 (static current - too high)

I tried to google some of those codes and maybe this is related??: 

 

I have also recently tested alternator which fills the battery with around 14.4 volts. The OBDEleven app also showed my the battery voltage while car was not running... 11.7 volts (seems low?).

Do you have any suggestions on how I should proceed with this new info?

What year the car/engine are from?

 

11.7 V is low if measured from the battery with multimeter. Diagnostic tools (and the car) typically read the voltage elsewhere where the voltage is lower. Try measuring at the battery.

 

How has the car started and ran recently?

 

Otherwise sorry no experience with this fault code. Idk if VCDS could dig more codes out?

If that 11.7 volts was read at battery terminals, I would suggest getting the battery properly tested. At that voltage, battery is almost completely discharged.

For battery test, battery must be fully charged before test. Is this the original battery? There should be a 4-digit date stamp on the top of the battery negative terminal (MMYY)

6 hours ago, dustexe said:

Fault codes:
ENGINE:

P060C00 (Internal control module main processor performance)

SOUND SYSTEM: 

B130C13 (double subwoofer speaker 1 - open circuit)

GATEWAY:

U140600 (static current - too high)

Okay - I can probably help here.

 

Engine P060C00 - this is not good at all.  Basically, it means the ECU is extremely unhappy and is likely to fail.  Usual recommendations are: replace the module.

Sound System fault: Subwoofer....do you have a Canton system at all or not - and is your sub is the dashboard or in the boot (or somewhere else?).  Electrically, its open circuit, so either the speaker needs checking (check the internal impedance of the speaker) or its a wiring fault.

Gateway fault: This is caused probably by a webcam or third party accessory drawing too much current from the system.  If its a cheap dashcam, please disconnect and replace it with something better (like OE spec GW322/422/522 nextbase system)

@RattleWagon @Warrior193 
Car is from year 2015. Battery is not original. I will measure from terminals tomorrow morning with MM.

@varaderoguy
"Engine P060C00 - this is not good at all.  Basically, it means the ECU is extremely unhappy and is likely to fail.  Usual recommendations are: replace the module."

I have a few questions here. Why does this error not show on cars dashboard if it's so severe? Also when you are talking about replacing the module you mean the ECU right?
When I go down the path of replacing ECU what costs should I expect? What is the cost of new ECU? Is it reasonable to buy an used ECU from a car that was in a crash and if.. what price should be paid for used unit? Also I imagine that I cannot do this procedure myself since some coding must be done to the unit. What is usually the correct price at car electrician for this kind of work?

"Sound System fault: Subwoofer....do you have a Canton system at all or not - and is your sub is the dashboard or in the boot (or somewhere else?).  Electrically, its open circuit, so either the speaker needs checking (check the internal impedance of the speaker) or its a wiring fault."

Car has canton system. Subwoofer is in the boot. I'll try to find some video on how to get to the speaker.

"Gateway fault: This is caused probably by a webcam or third party accessory drawing too much current from the system.  If its a cheap dashcam, please disconnect and replace it with something better (like OE spec GW322/422/522 nextbase system)"

Hmm. There were some 3rd party accessories installed by the previous owner. one is new GPS antenna that is in the glovebox now because apparently the one on the roof didn't work ok. I don't know what is the quality of this GPS module. AND some really CHEAP looking door lights that illuminate VRS logo on the floor... should I check those first?

4 hours ago, dustexe said:

 

@varaderoguy
"Engine P060C00 - this is not good at all.  Basically, it means the ECU is extremely unhappy and is likely to fail.  Usual recommendations are: replace the module."

I have a few questions here. Why does this error not show on cars dashboard if it's so severe? Also when you are talking about replacing the module you mean the ECU right?
When I go down the path of replacing ECU what costs should I expect? What is the cost of new ECU? Is it reasonable to buy an used ECU from a car that was in a crash and if.. what price should be paid for used unit? Also I imagine that I cannot do this procedure myself since some coding must be done to the unit. What is usually the correct price at car electrician for this kind of work?
 

You are right. This is major surgery. The fault is indicative of a failing ECU or an intermittent failing. If the ECU is dying, the it would glitch the performance of the car. I might want to first check the connectors to the ECU, see if there is either poor electrical connections or corrosion before I go anywhere else on this one.

"Sound System fault: Subwoofer....do you have a Canton system at all or not - and is your sub is the dashboard or in the boot (or somewhere else?).  Electrically, its open circuit, so either the speaker needs checking (check the internal impedance of the speaker) or its a wiring fault."

Car has canton system. Subwoofer is in the boot. I'll try to find some video on how to get to the speaker.

"Gateway fault: This is caused probably by a webcam or third party accessory drawing too much current from the system.  If its a cheap dashcam, please disconnect and replace it with something better (like OE spec GW322/422/522 nextbase system)"

Hmm. There were some 3rd party accessories installed by the previous owner. one is new GPS antenna that is in the glovebox now because apparently the one on the roof didn't work ok. I don't know what is the quality of this GPS module. AND some really CHEAP looking door lights that illuminate VRS logo on the floor... should I check those first?

 

Try returning the car to stock and get rid of any Fusebox mod electrical hellishness first. I would be looking at the wiring to the sharkfin GPS receiver and trying to figure out why that's failing. Get rid of any aftermarket nonsense that is not properly electrically wired in.

 

Yes get rid of the aftermarket lights...unless they are Kopacek lights in which case they are kosher.

 

I have now checked the battery which is at 12.2V. Car is turned off for 6 hours.

I have also found out that some people on this forum also had trouble with this fault code but from various reasons which is not helpful.

Since I cannot notice any performance issues or drivability issues I will try to wait for my VCDS if anything more specific is brought up. Then I'll probably contact the electrician so that he checks the connections. I have also forgot to mention that webasto system is installed in this car which brings some addition wiring and fuses to the engine bay.