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Central locking and boot issue

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Hi everyone 

 

Recently picked up my third Skoda fabia diesel and the central locking does not work properly and the boot release is intermittent. 

 

The remote central locking doesn't work at all. I did change the battery in the fob but no change.

 

The interior lock/unlock buttons lock and unlock the front doors only. The key will lock/unlock the front doors only too. 

 

I've read about the door micro switch but can't see if this is linked to the central locking. 

 

Anyone had this before?

 

Cheers

  • Author

Checked the common micro switch symptoms and the 'forgot your lights are on' warning sound works with the driver door open. Tried opening the boot with other doors open and no joy. Puddle lights work and the interior light works. 

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Don't suppose you have a VCDS autoscan for the car?

Sounds like someone may have replaced a faulty module with one from e.g. a two door Polo?

  • Author

I tried VCDS lite but wouldn't talk with the central locking module. I'll get the full version and try that next.

 

Weird how the boot issue is intermittent. Central locking off fob doesn't work at all but the front doors open from the key?

 

*Someone has been messing with the passenger side arm rest and have clearly had the door card off as the silver lock knob thing is missing.*

Edited by Sheffy

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Yeah, not sure about the boot opening, but if the central convenience unit is coded to think it's in a 2/3 door car, and is possibly also from a car without remote central locking, that might explain most of what's occurring.

Not sure why vcds lite won't talk to it though, not sure having full version will change that.

  • Author

Could try the door module from our VRS but it will be epic doing a tedious job twice.

 

You don't think the boot issue is linked to the central locking then?

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Wasn't thinking it was anything in the door, more the central convenience unit above clutch pedal.

Are you in touch with previous owner?

  • Author

Turns out the button on the driver side armrest that locks and unlocks the doors is only operating the passenger side and the drivers door will only unlock or lock via the key from outside. 

 

Previous owner only had it less than 2 weeks, I wonder why? 🤣

  • Author

Is the OEM part number 3B1837016AM?

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Doubt it, that would be a LHD unit.

I guess you mean driver's side front door lock?

Would need reg number or VIN to give a definite PN.

Could be a problem with wiring to the lock motor, at A-pillar to door bellows.

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Parts catalogue gives 3B2837016R for your car, which has been superseded by 3B2837016AA.

  • Author

Thank you very much. I've ordered one and a spare key. I'll have a look at the wiring in the bellows again closely, fit the new actuator, try and re-sync the keys and pray it fixes it.

 

What is the central convenience control unit?

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18 minutes ago, Sheffy said:

What is the central convenience control unit?

It's the unit that controls the central locking and alarm (where fitted) functions. Mounted in a rather inaccessible position up above the clutch pedal on RHD cars.

Generally rather reliable, and tends not to get any attention unless someone wants to replace it to upgrade from key-in-door to radio remote central locking, which requires a different part number.

Yours was built with radio remote C/L, so unlikely to have ever been touched.

 

Looks  like this:

 

ccm.png

Edited by Breezy_Pete

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The wiring and particularly the connections of the plugs/sockets at the bellows can be vulnerable to water ingress if someone has tried to look at the wiring by peeling back the rubber bellows, and then has failed to refit it perfectly. It's rather awkward to do so in the tight space near the hinges, so often it is left not sealing well against the paintwork, and rain runs down and in, affecting the connectors which are not themselves waterproof.

  • Author

I'll check the wiring properly tomorrow. Fixing a few mechanical things today first. 

 

To properly check the wiring, do I test from the male connector side after unplugging from the door and then where with a multimeter? Where does the other side go? 

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The blue/yellow and purple/yellow wires of the white 6-way connector at the A-pillar are the ones that go to the motor in the door lock (from the central convenience unit). 

Some other pins in the same connector also are lock related. 

 

Green or white residues on the loom connector inserts is usually the giveaway that rain has got to them.

 

 

  • Author

So door card off and door carrier off to test continuity from CCU and a pillar connector whilst in there to replace the door locking module?

 

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Wire breaks or corroded connector contacts are usually obvious to the naked eye, but yeah, if you have a meter, testing from lock connector to a-pillar  connector is worth doing.

  • Author

Spot on.

 

Not sure if relevant as not sure how the alarms work on these but when I unlock the drivers door the indicators flash until I put the key into the ignition and put ignition on, however, no alarm sounds?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Just gone to change the door lock actuator and now the electric windows aren't working and the lock/unlock buttons on the drivers arm rest don't work. Any ideas?

 

Also how can I change the door lock actuator if I can get the windows to go down or up?

  • Author

Regarding the boot, both the switch and the solenoid is good. Boot is opening intermittently. 

 

My neighbour said his son had an issue with the wiring harness between the boot and the body of the car. My friend said the same was wrong with his fabia. 

 

I've seen online they sell a Febi Bilstein Wiring Harness Repair Kit (107095). Is it worth replacing or trying to solder if the wires are broken?

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3 hours ago, Sheffy said:

 

Also how can I change the door lock actuator if I can get the windows to go down or up?

If you take the window motor off, the beige cog can be taken off it, put into the door and used to manually lower or raise the glass, perhaps with some pliers to help turn it.

 

Loom repair kits are typically for the single-connector later cars, rather than mk1 Fabia?

  • Author

Many thanks for that info re beige cog! I've swapped the drivers door actuator, just need to reassemble with plumbers gold. I don't have a rivnut tool or a rivet tool so I'm thinking of using self tappers adjacent to the holes for the original rivets. Anything wrong with using self tappers barring being a bit of a bodge?

 

The boot harness repair is listed for a mk1 and looks to fit as below. So far though it does seem to be working but its so intermittent, it would not surprise me if not working tomorrow.

 

The remote central locking does not work still despite changing the door lock actuator. When using the inside buttons on the driver's side it does now operate both front doors but the rear doors are still not locking. Any ideas what would case this?

 

Also is it normal that when holding the key in the drivers door to the unlock position that the windows go down?

s-l1600.webp

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25 minutes ago, Sheffy said:

Also is it normal that when holding the key in the drivers door to the unlock position that the windows go down?

Yes, and should go back up if key held the other way.

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That repair loom doesn't resemble what would work on a mk1 or mk2 Fabia, unless maybe on a rear door?

 

I've misunderstood,  haven't I. You're meaning for the tailgate?

Edited by Breezy_Pete

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