Can anyone tell me how the different gearbox modes affect the clutches?

I would like to use the ECO mode but everytime I take my foot off the throttle, the revs drop, so obviously a clutch disengages.

But then, if I start to go downhill, the clutch re engages to provide engine braking.

Also, do you know how the clutch mechanism compares to a manual clutch?  Do the clutches have springs to hold them closed and release bearings to hold them open?

Or are they opened and closed by hydraulics?  When the car is stationary and in gear with a foot on the brake, clutches disengaged, is there a release bearing wearing away somehow?

Many thanks

 

 

So you have a 1.4. that means you have the dq200 box with twin dry clutches. I believe they are hydraulically controlled. The wet system is a multi plate clutch. From a little digging I can't tell if the dry variant is multi plate or single plate.

For what it's worth, I can't recall a story of release bearings or similar wearing out on one of these in 13 years of using briskoda or other similar sites. I'm not sure it's anything to be concerned about.

17 hours ago, Stewart7 said:

When the car is stationary and in gear with a foot on the brake, clutches disengaged, is there a release bearing wearing away somehow?

You are all good.  The gearbox is intellegent to know that if you are on the brake - in D - it disengages the clutch enough not to drive forward.  Modern DSG / auto-gearboxes are fine like that.  If it makes you feel any better, try putting the car in neutral when you have your foot on the brake.

@Stewart7 Is your DSG going into Coasting then when in ECO Mode.

Instead of D7 or D6 the indicator just shows D.    Which is fine. No load on engine no need to be engaged in Drive, touch brake or accelerator and back into D7 or D6.

 

There are various things that can go wrong / play up with a DQ200 DSG, but best just use it, not abuse it and they are pretty well OK.

There was a Service Campaign called in 2017 on some from 2013-2015,  a software update. '34H5', maybe check if that was needed or carried out.

(That was a preventative measure because of pressure / heat issues.)

Thanks to everyone who set my mind at rest.  I've always been a worrier, and this is the first car I have ever owned where nothing connected with the drive train is get-at-able.  Well not for me anyway..

 

Best wishes

Stewart

 

On 18/11/2024 at 21:23, Stewart7 said:

Can anyone tell me how the different gearbox modes affect the clutches?

I would like to use the ECO mode but everytime I take my foot off the throttle, the revs drop, so obviously a clutch disengages.

But then, if I start to go downhill, the clutch re engages to provide engine braking.

Also, do you know how the clutch mechanism compares to a manual clutch?  Do the clutches have springs to hold them closed and release bearings to hold them open?

Or are they opened and closed by hydraulics?  When the car is stationary and in gear with a foot on the brake, clutches disengaged, is there a release bearing wearing away somehow?

Many thanks

 

 

Possibly, but on my car, the clutch does not completely disengage and is held at a slight bite. I can feel the car relax back when I put the gearbox into neutral, which I now do instinctively when I am coming to a stop.

Sometimes before I actually come to a complete stop. This has the added bonus of allowing a perfectly smooth halt.

This is my second Octavia with the 7 speed dq200 box (now covered 70k), I've had no issues with either, both always been silky smooth. Personally I just use in in normal driving mode, tried eco, don't like it, neither did I save fuel. As the above poster has mentioned, I always place mine into neutral, too, if my start & stop is off & I've stopped at a lights. I always have whether I've owned an auto or a manual transmission. The dsg is the smoothest duel clutch transmission I've used, worst the infamous Ford power shift slush box. I've also previously owned a few torque convertors, too. 

I used to use eco mode, but now use normal, get the slight benefit of engine braking.

 

Do not shift to neutral as s/s is always used.  

There is a difference as to putting a car with a DSG into N when stopped in traffic when you have a Manual Parking brake or an e-brake, then Autohold.  No need to be going to N if Autohold enable and the car is being held and you can have stop start activated or not.   Foot on brake pedal or Autohold active the rear brake lights are on.    Parking brake / e-brake on there are no brake lights on. 

On 01/12/2024 at 10:45, EnterName said:

Possibly, but on my car, the clutch does not completely disengage and is held at a slight bite. I can feel the car relax back when I put the gearbox into neutral, which I now do instinctively when I am coming to a stop.

Sometimes before I actually come to a complete stop. This has the added bonus of allowing a perfectly smooth halt.

I always do this.  As you say, it makes for a smoother stop.  Wiith a manual its easy to gradually ease off the brakes as you slow down, and come right off as you come to a halt.  The first time i tried this with a DSG, I found it took a bit of getting used to, to make a smooth stop without having the clutch partially engaged, then applying full brake to completely disengage.

On the subject of clutches, can anyone tell me why occasionally when starting from rest and the first clutch is not quite fully engaged, I get a judder?  Its as if I have a rear wheel drive with a manual clutch and I've tried to gat away too smartish and the rear wheels have bounced, tramped?

DSG clutch packs do need replacing.  Depending on the previous owner, it might be worn causing this condition.  DQ200 boxes are generally okay.  Make sure your car is not scheduled in for the DQ200 recall and ideally make sure that you get the fluid changes (even though its a sealed box for life).

2 hours ago, varaderoguy said:

make sure that you get the fluid changes (even though its a sealed box for life).

+1

I usually use my  DQ200 with stop start off in normal and leave it to its own devices. Except when towing when I use manual mode out of towns, but auto in the town. It's at 66k just now and working perfectly. It has a full soda history, I asked the dealer last service about a fluid change, they said I would be wasting money. I also asked about timing belt they said the same. However I an intending doint the belt at 80k and gearbox fluid at 100k if I still own it then.

On 03/12/2024 at 16:11, daviemck2006 said:

I usually use my  DQ200 with stop start off in normal and leave it to its own devices. Except when towing when I use manual mode out of towns, but auto in the town. It's at 66k just now and working perfectly. It has a full soda history, I asked the dealer last service about a fluid change, they said I would be wasting money. I also asked about timing belt they said the same. However I an intending doint the belt at 80k and gearbox fluid at 100k if I still own it then.

I believe I have the unit with dry clutches.

I've had off the record discussions with an AA mechanic about the belt, and he thinks Skoda are being over cautious.  If you look after the belt, (no violent changes of revs, up or down, so as not to stretch it), you should get 100k out of it.  My car is a low mileage car but nearly 10 years old so I check the belt every year.  I've found that if you release the cover without removing any hoses, just unclip them from their plastic holders, you can use some cord to pull them back towards the wing.  Then its a bit fiddly but with a dental mirror and a torch, you can just about see the teeth on the underside of the belt.  I use a 12 inch ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine over.  Its all very much a pain, but cheaper than a mechanic and you have the satisfaction that its been checked thoroughly.  There is of course a similar belt driving the coolant pump, but much harder to get at, but as it has less of a load on it and it doesn't wreck your engine if it breaks, checking the cam belt should suffice for this one also.  An ordinary socket will fit on the crankshaft pulley bolt, but the head  is designed for a socket that drives on the flats, not the corners.  Less risk of damage to the bolt to use this typeof socket.

Edited 4 December, 20241 yr by Stewart7
Typos

On 03/12/2024 at 09:41, varaderoguy said:

DSG clutch packs do need replacing.  Depending on the previous owner, it might be worn causing this condition.  DQ200 boxes are generally okay.  Make sure your car is not scheduled in for the DQ200 recall and ideally make sure that you get the fluid changes (even though its a sealed box for life).

How do I check for the DQ200 recall?  Can I do it online?  I never go to a Skoda garage.

I believe there is a sticker in the boot that indicates that the recall has been carried out.

TBH, if your mech is still working well after 10 years I would guess it has been fixed already or didn't need it.

The recall was to swap out the original synthetic oil for power steering fluid. The synthetic oil corroded the internal contacts

Its worth checking out: https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall to see if your car has any outstanding recalls.  A phonecall to the service department of your local Skoda dealer will also confirm if this is the case.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns '34H5' used to not show up on the VIN checker, then did for a while when Australia had it,s 3rd Recall started.

 

The Recall being talking about was never a RECALL in the UK as a letter sent to Registered keepers.

So started in 2017 on some DQ200,s from 2013-2015, it is a software update as a preventative measure, Pressure, heat issues. 

'34H5' is the Service Campaign / Recall Action / Skoda Secret Service Campaign,  need to know basis and Skoda / VW decided not worth letting all know.

 

Repeated 3 times now in Australia.

 

This is not the '34F7' on 2009-2012 DQ200 DSG,s which was a Global / World Wide Recall, but VW Decided Europe / EU was not in the world in 2012, 

so started a Voluntary Recall Action in 2014. 

 

Recalls should show when you check the MOT History site.

The amount of Safety Critical Recalls that VW Group / Skoda fail to tell Registered Keepers about is ridiculous.

The amount they convince the DfT / DVSA / DVLA that does not need a RECALL because they will contact keepers about is ridiculous.

Edited 6 December, 20241 yr by Ootohere

@Gammyleg The Recall Action to change the oil from synthetic to mineral has nothing to do with DQ200 from the end of 2012 on.

It is '34F7'.   started in 2014 in the UK.  

 

2015 is '34H5' concerning those.  2013-2015 DQ200,s.

 

This is '34F7'

Edited 6 December, 20241 yr by Ootohere