Hi Guys,

 

 

I'm new here and hoping someone might be able to help me!

 

I have a 2020 vRS hatch (Mk3.5) that I've owned since May. When I first got the car, the rear washer nozzles were blocked - I didn't even realise I had any! After letting the pump work for a bit, it began to spray fluid fine and has been trouble free with Halfords ready use screen wash until today. I probably use the rear washer once every drive, and drove the car a few days ago. It's been pretty warm here over the weekend, and during the freezing weather the washer jets worked fine. Tonight, I noticed that it was blocked for some reason!

 

I used the inner of some wire to clear the nozzles out. They unblocked fine, and the wire moved freely and went in the same distance in both. The top nozzle shoots perfectly, however the bottom one sort of... sprays/mists. It doesn't seem blocked, but it's just not as strong as the other one. I've no idea if it was always this way.

 

My question is, do we know if this is by design, or do we think the nozzle is still blocked? I'm worried that I have an issue with the pipes and that I'll get rust/damage wherever the problem is. I don't think I do, as the top nozzle shoots out fine, but I can't see another reason. 

 

I'm not sure about removing the nozzle (to see if fluid shoots out like it's supposed to) as I've read people have issues getting it lined up once back on. If I blocked up the top nozzle with my finger, should the bottom one spray more? I'm cautious of doing what I usually do, removing something, and then find that the impossible-to-fit replacement part is over a week away, knackering the washer motor or something in the process.

 

 

Thank you guys, I appreciate the help!

I had to use pliers to remove the jet, but had no problem refitting it.  For clearing the nozzles, I got the idea to use aerosol ‘power’ to clear them from a YouTube clip.  I used a can of carb/brake cleaner and it worked fine, cleared them a treat.  Just remove the spray jet from the can and push the input side of the washer jet onto the can.

 

Unfortunately, the jets weren’t the problem on mine, nor has pushing wire down the pipe cured it, so I will have to investigate further.

Its really recommended to use screen wash and not just water in your screen wash bottle.  It stops bacterial growth as well as keeps the nozzle jets clean of dirt. Make sure you also have your mesh screen in the top of the filler cap/keep it clean.

I've had a couple of occasions after a service when the dealer has added Audi/Skoda screen wash that a couple of weeks later a screen wash nozzle has blocked when the Skoda/Audi screen wash has reacted with the Holts screen wash I use to form what I can best describe as 'gloop'.

I only ever use screen wash, mainly because I find water never works the same.

 

I’ve decided to order a replacement nozzle (I need to put an order on anyway). I’ll take it off, activate the washer and if it shoots out 6 feet then great it’s the nozzle, if it doesn’t then it’s another issue.

 

The fact it shoots out of one hole fine makes me think it’s just the nozzle. If the pipe had split or popped off, where would the fluid come out of?

So, popped the nozzle off (no idea what that guy was on about it being difficult) and it’s completely clear. The ball joint jets themselves could be less rusty, but there’s no obstruction in either.

 

I’ve attached a video of the washer without the nozzle on it - this looks like a normal pressure right? I.E. if there was a disconnect/split in the pipe, it wouldn’t shoot out this far?

 

If so, then it seems it’s just one of those things. It seems weird to me that Skoda overengineer everything practicality/safety related, but leave this. According to the parts list, the mk4 and 4.5 uses the same bit!

Glad you got it sorted.  
 

I used pliers because I didn’t want to risk breaking the jet by using the nozzle end as a lever, and I didn’t know how tight it would be.  My car had hardly been used for 6 months or so as I have been unable to drive following a stroke (still not driving!).  Of course, once the jet had been off, it was easy to refit and remove again.

Edited 4 December, 20241 yr by Baxlin

I was in the other camp - unwilling to use fliers on what was undoubtedly soft crappy VWAG plastic. It came off quite nicely (the car isn't that old). My concern of taking it off was that I wasn't sure how to line it up once back on - of course, I realise now that there is a slot cut for it!

 

Did you happen to test yours with the nozzle off @Baxlin? I'm still trying to confirm that the piping is all in good order, and I've no idea how strong the pressure should be normally. 

 

All I need to do once the new bit arrives is pop it on, and then get my girlfriend to operate the washer whilst I drink more fluid adjusting the jets.

 

It is a particularly rubbish design. From what I've see, rear washer issues are a problem across the VAG group, from T6s to Fabias to A5s.

When I bought my Octy 6yrs ago I had the same problem, after joining and searching this forum, the consensus was only to use VAG washer fluid.

I did just as you have and used some wire to clear the jets and have used it ever since with no problem.

Others will say they use whatever washer fluid and it works for them, I tried Tesco's, Morrisons and Halfords with no great success and passed them on to my son who has a 62 plate VRS, he has no problems with these fluids.

It's all relative. My parents have been using water, screen wash, fairy liquid and whatever else in one of their cars (A3) for the last 14 years and the washer system still works fine, somehow.