2007 1.9 BXE hatchback Octavia

Changing front wheel bearing it's not a press in? It's a unit with bearing in is that right?

To replace you need to remove brake carrier, the 3 control arm nuts and the axel out of the hub for access?

Read somewhere you can leave axel in place but not sure about that

Does the old bearing just slide out once you remove the 4 bolts that hold it?

Horrible drone noise driving,sounds front left. When I turn steering wheel to right sound disappears. Does that sound right for bearing

Also outside of both front tires is wearing

Can needs a lot of attention including overdue cam belt/water pump.

Was my father's so thinking of putting some money into it

Thanks

2 hours ago, huwants2no said:

it's not a press in? It's a unit with bearing in is that right?

If you buy the bearing alone (my preference as its cheaper) then you have to press out the old bearing and press the new in.

If you buy a bearing and housing assembly no press needed but you are likely to need to give the old one the good news with a club hammer to remove it, I think the driveshaft can remain in place, touch wood I have not had to replace one yet.

I just did one on a 2012 but should be the same. I replaced hub complete as it was easier. Loosen hub nut with wheel on ground (no more than 90 degrees if not replacing bearing) or get someone to press brakes to lock wheel Removed caliper, disc and hub nut. In theory you can push drive shaft etc back towards Gbox to get to bolts but I ended up removing bottom ball joint and track rod to get in past the gator as I couldnt get square on to the retaing bolts. The bolts are triple square splined. Torq won't fit. I removed ABS sensor as well as I wasn't sure if it would allow the old hub off. Refitting is the reverse but you have to torque hub nut with wheel off the ground as it can damage new bearing if weight is on it before tightening. Make sure you clean any rust etc from socket for new bearing. If you are getting a complete hub it will probably come with new hub bolt. If not get a new hub bolt. Not a bad job but make sure you clean out splined socket bolts to get a proper grip. Last thing you want is to round them and have to drill them out.

Meant to add that the front bearing can have 3 or 4 retaining bolts. Make sure you order the correct one. My 08 has 4 but my 12 plate has 3. Hub nut from memory needs a multisplined socket 26mm I think but not sure.

Alasdair

Edited 1 April, 20251 yr by Alasdair1
remembered info

They're not bad to do if you replace the unit with the hub. You can buy the bearing by itself, but it's not worth the trouble. As above, make sure you've got the right sockets and spline bit before you start. If you can get your hands on a decent impact gun, it makes it an easy job.

49 minutes ago, StevesTruck said:

They're not bad to do if you replace the unit with the hub. You can buy the bearing by itself, but it's not worth the trouble. As above, make sure you've got the right sockets and spline bit before you start. If you can get your hands on a decent impact gun, it makes it an easy job.

I used a 3/4 drive with scafold tube to loosen mine as I don't have an impact wrench. It was very very tight. Helpful if someone else can hold socket in place.

Alasdair

5 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

I just did one on a 2012 but should be the same. I replaced hub complete as it was easier. Loosen hub nut with wheel on ground (no more than 90 degrees if not replacing bearing) or get someone to press brakes to lock wheel Removed caliper, disc and hub nut. In theory you can push drive shaft etc back towards Gbox to get to bolts but I ended up removing bottom ball joint and track rod to get in past the gator as I couldnt get square on to the retaing bolts. The bolts are triple square splined. Torq won't fit. I removed ABS sensor as well as I wasn't sure if it would allow the old hub off. Refitting is the reverse but you have to torque hub nut with wheel off the ground as it can damage new bearing if weight is on it before tightening. Make sure you clean any rust etc from socket for new bearing. If you are getting a complete hub it will probably come with new hub bolt. If not get a new hub bolt. Not a bad job but make sure you clean out splined socket bolts to get a proper grip. Last thing you want is to round them and have to drill them out.

Meant to add that the front bearing can have 3 or 4 retaining bolts. Make sure you order the correct one. My 08 has 4 but my 12 plate has 3. Hub nut from memory needs a multisplined socket 26mm I think but not sure.

Alasdair

Thanks. That helps quite a bit. I think mine is the 4 bolt unit but will check before ordering. Is it doable without torque wrench. I only have a smaller TW.

Does it make sense that if the front left bearing is worn out when I turn steering wheel to the right the drone sound disappears?

I just don't want to change the wheel bearing to find the sound was caused by something else

Thanks for the advice

3 hours ago, StevesTruck said:

They're not bad to do if you replace the unit with the hub. You can buy the bearing by itself, but it's not worth the trouble. As above, make sure you've got the right sockets and spline bit before you start. If you can get your hands on a decent impact gun, it makes it an easy job.

Don't have impact gun unfortunately.

Don't even have a torque wrench that goes that high but can try borrow one

Can I ask you the same question Steve

When I turn steering wheel to the right when driving the sound disappears. Even turning slightly to the right it disappears.

Is that consistent with a faulty front left bearing?

Cheers for the help

Hard to say, wheel bearings are funny old things that can make all manner of noises. A drumming noise that changes with road speed is a fair indication, jack the front end up and give the front wheels a spin, see if one feels rougher than the other.

Go in prepared for a fight with tight fastenings. It's going to happen. If you haven't got an impact wrench and can't borrow one, it's well worth looking at hiring one for the weekend, or the less scrupulous amongst us might be tempted to buy one, use it and take it back.

Mine was noisy but less when I turned slightly to left. Was getting a bit of a habit slightly steering left to get rid of noise. The Torque setting depends on the type of hub bolt. There are three. Old style was hex (six sided)which required a massive amount 200Nm plus 180 degrees, Bi Hex (12 sided) without grooving on face of bolt) 200Nm plus 90 Degrees. The one that came with my new bearing was Bi Hex(12 sided) with grooving on face which is a lot less 70Nm plus 90 degrees.

Hub to wheel bearing housing bolts if I remember were 70Nm plus 90 degrees.

Remembered I got this from Breezy_pete.

It shows what I mean re grooved bolt. I couldnt work it out until I saw the pic. Was looking at the head not the surface.

17 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Mine was noisy but less when I turned slightly to left. Was getting a bit of a habit slightly steering left to get rid of noise. The Torque setting depends on the type of hub bolt. There are three. Old style was hex (six sided)which required a massive amount 200Nm plus 180 degrees, Bi Hex (12 sided) without grooving on face of bolt) 200Nm plus 90 Degrees. The one that came with my new bearing was Bi Hex(12 sided) with grooving on face which is a lot less 70Nm plus 90 degrees.

Hub to wheel bearing housing bolts if I remember were 70Nm plus 90 degrees.

Great info thanks again

The sound on mine really disappears if I turn right and I read others saying the drone noise they were getting was between certain speeds but again mine seems to be constant and louder the faster I'm going.

Did you notice any unusual wear on you're tyres also

The outside on both my fronts is wearing which I don't understand as sounds coming from left

I'm freaked out I'll change the bearing unit and noise will be still there

Garages around mine are flat out. I called into a couple and guy said at least 2 weeks

I'm in Ireland by the way👍

The droning noise was only when turning at first but then became constant after a while. There wasn't any play in my bearing but just very noisy. If the tyres are wearing on the outside then it could be down to tracking unless the bearing has a lot of play and the steering is trying to compensate. I would change bearing plus check condition of track rod ends/ball joints etc and perhaps get tracking checked. Most good tyre services can do it.

Same here re garages. All the decent ones are very busy. There is always the option of a mobile mechanic? although I wouldn't use one unless they were reccomended to me. Same as garages.

Alasdair

Wheel bearing fixed lads. Thanks for the help. Even tho I was sure the sound was coming from the front left when I started the job the bearing sounded smooth to turn by hand and no play in it. So I stripped the front right down and it wasn't smooth to turn and had a slight grinding noise to it. I started thinking there was something wrong at the gearbox end but swapped out the bearing front right and when I took it for a drive the drone sound was gone. The 3 M12 spline bolts holding the bearing where crazy right and I was lucky a had two m12 bits one a long one to reach the top bolt square on, felt like it was gonna strip out but all sorted now

Appreciate the advice👍

Stuck caliper piston and timing belt/water pump next🙈

Edited 27 April, 20251 yr by huwants2no

Glad you got it fixed. The splined bolts on mine were nerve racking to undo as was the hub nut. When they finally came loose with 5 foot scalfolding tube and a loud crack I first thought I broke something. I did the timing belt on my 1.9tdi a few years back and it was fairly straight forward. I bought a cheap locking kit on amazon that did the job. I used a gates belt plus wpump kit. If I remember corectly there are three bolts on the top pully that can be loosened to finely adjust the timing if the locking pins don't quite line up with the new belt. One thing I did find was the amount of crap behind the plastic wheel arch which made me remove other side and clean it out as well. No wonder they start rusting at the bottom of the front wing/door pillar/sill. As for a stuck caliper years ago I would have bought a seal kit etc but now I just get a new one as the prices aren't too bad plus you get a new bleed screw that isn't seized solid. I also remove bleed screw and coat with copper grease for future removal.

Couldn't work out how to drain coolant from block before removing wpump. Doesnt seem to be a drain plug on the 1.9bxe or I couldn't find it so be prepared for a bit of coolant spillage. I drained mine from bottom of rad first but I found out that there was still a good bit in block.

Alasdair

Found this and it seems to be very helpful for DIYers

Cheers mate. Yeah I really thought I'd stripped the top spine bolt. Not what you want on the gravel driveway at home:)

Its fairly straight forward. Once its fitted from memory you turn engine over by hand a couple of times and check again. If the locking pins don't line up you can finely adjust with the three bolts on top wheel.

When I used to drive volvo 940/960 I have in the past just marked old belt and pulleys with tipex and then just cut old belt off and used as a template. Marked new belt from old and lined everything up. Saved trying to work out where TDC was.

I always use Gates and have never had a problem in at least 30 years. Just avoid the cheaper ones.

Alasdair