Hi, new and first time poster here.

I did search the forums, but no luck.

I did acquire a skoda superb mk2 estate 2010y model (2.0tdi 4x4 CBBB) for needs of a growing family.
But there was hidden and not-so hidden rust on the car. The side sills were in seemingly good shape but upon jacking up the and placing it on jack stands on bent rear pinch weld jacking spot, I noticed the rock mass + paint gave in and ta -da nice big hole.
On both sides. No problem, there is a replacement part from klokkerholm to the side sills.

But then I started to investigate the bubbly paint on rear wheel arches and where the metal meets the rear bumber - on both sides - the rust had gotten through. Ah nice cavity with bubblegum -tier chassis glue acting as a sponge.
I did google (my arse off) to find rear wheel arch repair panel for skoda superb mk2. All I got was superb mk1 repair panels and then from junkyards whole cut off rear parts - with rusty wheel arches already.

So my question is .. is there no repair rear wheel arch / wing for superb mk2 2010y estate or do I just suck at googling?

Attached image from the side sill from my car and other image where the holes are on my skoda.

Has the car had some previous accident damage? - I ask as the shut line between rear door and rear wing panel doesn't look quite right - or is it me?

I suspect it's a fabrication job re wheel arch. Might be better anyway as sometimes rot on galvanised panels can be very localised indeed although post welding it'll need very thorough rust proofing.

I kept a close eye on my mkII 2014 facelift hatch and to be honest there was zero rust on body panels but I regularly rustproofed, suspension parts were a different matter!

I used to restore cars back in the day so I'm well experienced at welding in repair panels or fabrication. Those days are over for me though!!

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by bigjohn

1 hour ago, bigjohn said:

Has the car had some previous accident damage? - I ask as the shut line between rear door and rear wing panel doesn't look quite right - or is it me?

I suspect it's a fabrication job re wheel arch. Might be better anyway as sometimes rot on galvanised panels can be very localised indeed although post welding it'll need very thorough rust proofing.

I kept a close eye on my mkII 2014 facelift hatch and to be honest there was zero rust on body panels but I regularly rustproofed, suspension parts were a different matter!

I used to restore cars back in the day so I'm well experienced at welding in repair panels or fabrication. Those days are over for me though!!

The picture from the blue car is not from my car... its from some junkyard. Sorry for misleading. According to background check, my car has not been in any accident. Today I got the car to a proper car lift and saw the condition of the chassis.

Rust proofing was done half assed - only where the plastic covers are not covering the chassis. On the plastic covers, there was more than 1kg of sand. Suprisingly the behind the plastic covers was mostly not rusted. Just some little surface rust here and there. And the car has 360000km on it.

The panoramic roof was leaky when I got it. The rear 'sewing' pipes had shrunk and didn't even reach the grommets so all water just poured in - this might have fed the rust in the chassis on the opposite but same spots as the rear most muffler is. I replaced the 'sewing' pipes. New ones - same part number are more than meter longer. I removed the rear grommets for now and just ran the pipes along the groove for rear hatch - down to the rear bumber.

All in all, not that bad for great driving car with much room for growing family.

-sills rusted through on both sides at the rear pinch weld jacking point. Pinch welds crushed - maybe a reason for the rust? -> straightened them today
-loads of dry leafs behind front wheel arch inner liner. Drivers side (left) rotted, but sill seems to be intact. passenger side good
-rear wheel / wing arches both rusted at the marked spot of previous post.
-the spot on behind, under chassis, opposite to the muffler, 'behind' the spare wheel well. Not through rusted, likely..

I'll sand blast the bottom to remove surface rust and then give it a proper phosphoric acid bath and then some good antirust paint.
The sills.. I'll get klokkerhom's repair pieces for ~86eur / piece. I'm not much of a welder yet.. but maybe I'll learn the trade again with my mig/mag/tig machine.

Or pay someone else to weld the bits. I can do the painting and proof the innards with antirust stuff.

I might get the company that sold me the car pay me back for the repairs - if I'm lucky.
They already told me that even though they had AI enhanced the images, the rusty condition of the car shouldn't be surprise as it has 360tkm on it and the hole in the sills shouldn't be problem for yearly MOT for the car.. ha ha.. if there's a hole, the car won't pass the MOT.

Yes , you have to be careful re water held in the sills, it will eventually rot through. The facelift doesn't have rubber bungs but it does have drains at low level inside the wheelarch (bottom of the cover) at each end of the sills. I checked mine with a thin knitting needle - one was bunged up. I Dinitrolled excessively, left it ages but some still poured out when I first drove it afterwards.

Likewise behind wheel arch line was deep in leaves/ cruf etc with mine - no sign of rust fortunately. Cleaned out and more rust proofing applied. I think this is a design flaw! I checked my Son's 2016 Octavia mkIII and it has a cut out designed into the base of the front wing and was totally clear.

Sunroof drains can be a pain - mine didn't have them as it was only the poverty spec but I remember my old Dad's Volvo 740 rotted through because of a broken sunroof drain. Muggins had to weld it backup as much as I could without a full blown strip down( I still had to remove all seats/carpets - and still nearly set fire to the dashboard!) but it was so bad I told him to get rid as further major rust issues would be likely.

Edited 24 May, 20251 yr by bigjohn