Hi All,

A problem which has progressed rather quickly in the last few days concerning the steering system (I think).

At low speed, right hand down almost to full lock I hear a creak/ clunk repetitively. If I move the steering wheel while on full lock, quickly right to left etc, the clicking/ clunking occurs both at very low speed and while practically stationary. If I depress the brake pedal on and off, quickly while also stationary, but in either reverse or drive and bump the car along a bit, this will also trigger the sound again while at full lock RHD. The sound also occurs if I slow right down in a straight line and move the steering while, ever so slightly to the left or right, a hear a click sound, typically once and then perhaps again, but not repetitively as it is when in the above conditions. It's very, very strange. I do not hear the sound at speed, i.e. anything above 10mph.

I jacked it up today, inspected the ball joint, the outer tie rod, the CV boot, and generally had a poke around with my pry bar at everything behind the knuckle, inspected the roll bar bushes, etc. all of this seemed in good working order, no play and I couldn't see any damage to any boots, grease leaking etc. I used a jack underneath the knuckle to raise the suspension up with the steering on full lock to try to emulate the problem, but I couldn't hear it while it was in the air. I think I could hear the click when my wife was wiggling the steering wheel on full right lock while it was on the ground, however, and I was bent down at the wheel. But the sound, when in the driver's seat sounds like it is high up and coming from either the steering wheel itself or the top mount.

I replaced the wheel bearings, top mount, friction bearing, suspension strut and spring a couple of months ago, so it is unlikely to be emanating from any of those components, unless one of them is faulty of course!

The only other components left to consider would be the steering rack itself, the inner tie rod or the driveshaft (inner or outer cv).

It's a very odd sound, and it's very difficult to figure out where it is coming from. I've booked the car into my local Skoda garage, explained that they'll need to take it out and test drive and what actions will trigger the sound. I fear an expensive diagnosis on the horizon!

Has anyone had any similar issues? My father-in-law has a VRS estate that is almost identical to mine and he was told a few years ago that it need a completely new steering rack! But he's struggled to get to the bottom of it and understand why they thought it needed replacing. I've also plugged my car into my Launch diagnostics system and there are no fault codes in the ECU, suggesting a purely mechanical failure.

Any thoughts on this mysterious sound, appreciated!

Could be a worn outer or inner CV joint if its being heard at full lock. I had similar sounds on my old Octavia and first I thought it was the steering but it only happened when it was moving so ruled that out. It did sound like it was high up as you said and only could be heard at full lock and low speeds but turned out to be worn Inner joint. Hopefully the garage will track it down for you.

Alasdair

Thanks for your reply, interesting that you also noticed that the noise was higher up in the cabin.

I suppose the next step, is to start taking things apart, garage can only look at it on 1st July, so perhaps i could get in before then and have a look myself.

Cheers

Chris

Further info, a recording of the sound, which is most audible in the last few seconds of the video!

My working theory is outer CV joint, unless this is the sound an inner joint fail also makes?

Could it be something else?

Update: Skoda just quoted me £330 inc VAT for supply only of front, outer CV joint (without grease). Crikey! Part number 3Q0498099E, returns searches at my usual places online from £40 for aftermarket, up to £90 for OE. What's with that price from Skoda?!?!?!?

23 hours ago, CrispyJ said:

What's with that price from Skoda?!?!?!?

They aren't interested in customer service or looking after MK3 Octavia's any longer. Find a good local VAG specialist for the same care, but at a more reasonable price.

I have just replaced my control arms, balljoints, shock absorbers, top mounts, anti-roll bar end links and tie rod ends. I am now getting the exact same sound under the exact conditions you described.

I went back under the car and realised the nut on the left-hand side tie-rod end balljoint wasn't completely tight, maybe check these on yours too?

Edited 17 June, 202517 Jun by Ripmax12345

I did a bit of research and the consensus appears to be that GKN lobro manufacturer the best OE cv joints and they're available, online for £90 a piece. Where on earth Skoda get £330 from is a mystery. Skoda will drone on about OE quality and genuine Skoda parts, even though we all know they'll be using one of many OE suppliers, what is the difference between those parts and the OE branded parts online?

Alot of the OE branded parts online just mean that they have been built within VW's specification, as in they are not a modification or upgrade. Not nessecarily that they have been 'approved' or anything.

The parts Skoda sell you are obviously 'approved' which almost doubles the price, and then the individual dealer will put their own markup on the price which probably doubles it again, by the time it reaches you you're paying 2x the price.

Not that there's anything wrong with these "OE" parts you find online. My favourable brands are Delphi & Febi. I know Delphi was actually manufacturing parts for VW for a while.

Edited 17 June, 202517 Jun by Ripmax12345

Thanks, that's useful.

It is interesting to consider what the actual differences are between OE parts that Skoda sells and the so-called 'OE' you can buy online. I consider 'OE' to mean a different thing than 'aftermarket', which I've also thought means of a lower quality than OE brands.

I can't imagine that companies like FAG or GKN Lobro essentially maintain several different production lines with the express purpose of manufacturing parts to different levels of quality, depending on how they are sold.

Skoda have always claimed to me that their parts are simply better in quality than anything that is available online. This, I find a little hard to believe.

You point about the markups is well made, and I'm sure this is what inflates the price. I'm certain that when Skoda quote me for work, they do not include the materials at the price they quote the consumer for supply only, because if they did their work would be extortionately expensive.

No problem.

Skoda will tell you their parts are good quality because they want you to fork out for them. You can guarantee they'll be good quality parts, but with a bit of research and patience you can get your hands on identical quality parts for half the price online.

Yes it's all about markup, imagine how much your car would cost new if every part used in the factory was costed at retail price.

Edited 17 June, 202517 Jun by Ripmax12345

Perhaps the original parts fitted were very good but I am finding that the parts that skoda supply as so called Skoda OEM don't last nearly as long as the originals. Front shocks on my old Octavia were replaced with genuine Skoda just before I bought it and they started leaking after 2 years as well as ball joints failing in the same time. The originals managed to last 10 years and 100k

Alasdair

I'm also finding this. I tend to research the brand before I buy the parts. Generally I find Autodoc/ buy car parts to be okay. You can filter the brands. I've never used their in-house 'Ridex' branded parts, though.

The only part that I had to use Skoda for was the rear shocks. No one online could offer an OE or aftermarket. I imagine that Bilstein probably do a kit for the car, but it wouldn't 'factory' spec.

Any thoughts on the video I posted? Could it be something other than an outer CV?

Thought I'd report back as Skoda have just called to explain what they think the problems are:

1) TPI - a technical bulletin from VAG, apparently. This is the 'clicking' on full lock. He explained that no parts were needed, but a process they have to basically dissemble the sub frame, undo some bolts which are part of the steering assembly and re-torque them in a special order. This apparently solves the problem, so they don't think it is a CV joint . . . . . . . £460 to cure that one!

2) Steering column cv/ U joint causing a clunking noise when turning the wheel. So they need to replace the column, apparently. . . . . . £1100 to do this.

3) unrelated to the above, but oil all over the gearbox housing. No diagnosis for this yet, but they're going to clean it up and put some special powder on it to try and establish where it is coming from!

If any of you have any similar experiences, or faults would give me some assurance that their diagnosis is correct. I'm particularly sceptical about number 1!!!

Cheers

I would be very sceptical of no1 as well. I would have thought that if it needs dismantling and retorquing something must have moved or worn which I assume is loose bolts or not perhaps assembled correctly in the first place or probably a known fault that should be recalled? It would also need the sub frame aligned etc.

No2 may be correct but you would have thought a replacement u joint would be available but knowing modern cars probably not.

No3 depends if its engine oil or gearbox oil or other. If its engine oiliit should be fairly easy to track down. If gearbox oil I wonder if the seals have gone at the inner cv joint/gearbox and its being thrown via the drive shaft.

The fact that they don't think its the CV joint? If Iwas spending £460 or £1100 I would want to know is it or isnt it for definite.

Previously you mentioned top mounts had been replaced. On my MK2 they have a specific direction of fitting marked with arrows. They look symetrical but there must be a reason for it. Wonder if one has been fitted in the wrong position? There are three bolts that would line up whichever way its fitted but it could be 120 degrees out?

Alasdair

They told me that the TPI had a video for reference. They said that the noise on the video was identical to the noise my car is making, with the steering wheel on full lock. I told them, if this doesn't cure it I'm gonna be looking for a refund. He said we'd cross that bridge if we come to it. He also said they've never done the repair before, either. In fact, until they checked their system they weren't even aware of this TPI bulletin. It sounds very similar if not identical to a CV joint to me, but in their health check video the tech said the driveshafts were absolutely fine/ solid. I'm still sceptical, but as it's something i literally cannot do, I'm in their hands unfortunately. It can't be that serious otherwise it would have been a recall.

These sounds aren't actually new, the steering clunk has been happening for years. I thought it was the friction bearings in the struts, which is why I replaced the lot when I did the front shocks. But I remember test driving it and hearing the sound almost immediately, so it can't have been the bearings. Honestly, the click on full lock has also been there for a while, possibly from new. So I should have been more belligerent while it was under warranty, I guess.

I did the top mounts when I replaced the shocks and I know exactly what you're talking about and I was sure to line them up correctly.

So I thought I'd give an update on this issue.

They were wrong, quite categorially. It wasn't the steering column joint and the TPI work did absolutely nothing to cure the problem. Both noises still exist.

I took the car straight back and we're now in a holding pattern with Skoda. I have to take the car back for more investigations. I'm not hopeful.

Regarding the oil leak, I've inspected both underside of the gearbox housing and the top. I see oil trail below the breather, and none above. My working theory is that it's been overfilled. As the oil heats up it's not only expelling the air to avoid pressure build-up but oil as well. If I'm correct, it took me about 30 seconds to find this, and I'm no mechanic. My faith in the dealership's ability to troubleshoot is reducing. I wasn't going to tell them what I think it is because I'm curious about what they come back with . . . .

Edited 11 July, 202511 Jul by CrispyJ

I used to use an old school independant garage with probably a combined knowledge of well over 100 years of diagnosis and fault finding. Alas they have closed due to retirement and also cars getting too electronic/computerised for them to work on without spending a fortune on special diagnosis tools. I find that these days if the computer doesnt tell the mechanic whats wrong they havent a clue where to look and its trial and error. You may well be correct re oil being over filled or perhaps a breather if it has one is blocked.

Hope they get to the bottom of it soon and you don't get charged for the work they did that wasn't needing done.

Alasdair

It saddens me these days where old fashioned mechanics are being replaced with technicians who need a computer to "diagnose" a problem or a manufacturer's advice sheet to tell them what "must" be wrong.

The five senses we were born with go a long way to finding faults rather than the main dealer approach supported by manufacturers of "replace everything" to make the problem go away.

I had a cracked front grill a few years back and common sense would say "fit a new grill". Skodas simply clever approach was to only make grills already plastic welded to a whole new bumper . To add even more simply clever ideas they were only available in a base coat so would need it respraying before fitting. I think we were north of £1500 at this point but you can see the costs beginning to sky rocket. Luckily the Internet had an after market supplier of just the grill at £60 which once the plastic welds were cut, fitted straight into place of the original cracked one.

In your case I think a stethoscope and 30mins with an old mechanic would track down the clunk. And for the oil, a clean up then using your eyes and feel with a tissue might lead you to the source.

I dread to think what would happen if some if these technicians were faced with a twin carb to set up !

I have to mention one good skoda tech though, when I had a leaking air con matrix which was going to be £500 to replace. He tried to seal it but it never worked. In the end I asked what my options were and he said either spend £500 which would sort the problem ..... or his second option was that I open a window. I liked that, it was "Simply Clever" 🙂

Hope you get things sorted.

Edited 12 July, 202512 Jul by 3rdoctavia

I was correct about the oil, or at least the garage also diagnosed it as a leak from the breather. Probably because they overfilled it when the did the oil service.

With regards to the steering problem. It's been back in for them to record the sound as per direction from Skoda. Basically they're doing very little to actually diagnose/ troubleshoot the problem. They don't seem to understand that it needs to be taken apart, inspected, disassembled etc. They'll call me and say they know what it is, to which I'll respond, we've been here before and last time you took £1,500 off me and completely failed to fix anything. So why should I believe you now? They're are just guessing, which makes no sense.

I have found a significant amount of youtube content created by Golf owners with the same noises. I can hear it best when my head is basically under the hood, dead centre and the lower I get the louder it gets, which tells me it's coming from somewhere underneath the turbo. IMO that signals that it is emanating from the rack itself. Something in the rack could be worn, a joint, the pinion gear etc. I doubt that it is the tie rods. I like the pinion gear theory, perhaps it's worn or damaged by side impact, pothole or some other incident.

Can't wait for the price to replace the steering rack, shall we take bets?

11 hours ago, CrispyJ said:

Can't wait for the price to replace the steering rack, shall we take bets?

Cant be as bad as my mates Jag XK. His failed (Supposedly known fault but jag not admitting it) He had to go to Jaguar as they were the only ones who had one. Water ingress into electronic control.

£4500 later!! Suposedly they have to dismantle the entire front end and then recode the rack to the car. Wont be buying a Jaguar.

Good luck and keep us posted

Hi all,

So I thought I'd give you an update on this topic.

Essentially it went back in to the dealership, who recorded a video and sent it to Skoda for their opinion.

Eventually I received a call, Skoda have advised that it needs a new steering rack, surprise, surprise. They've agreed to pay 70% of the cost, and the dealership is putting in the remaining 30%; a pretty good result, all things considered. I don't know if I believe that it is purely altruistic, but I suspect there was a warranty provided on the original repair so perhaps they had no choice, and battled it out between each other, who knows.

However, the odd thing about this is that still, nobody can be sure about what has failed or is, failing. They appear to be operating on the basis of "what else can it be?". What happened to good old fashioned troubleshooting? Surely a better approach for everyone concerned is to take the car apart, look at things, test things, and don't stop until the problem is located? I, for one, would be happy to pay money for that service being a second hand car owner; I need people who can problem solve, quickly and effectively, not just guess!

I don't mind paying for people's time, at all, but there has to be a bit of give and take. I believe a middle ground exists, where both the owner and the dealership share the cost of the fault diagnosis, treating each party as a stakeholder seems the only reasonable way to get better, more accurate and less time-consuming outcomes in these difficult scenarios. Maybe I'm crazy, but an interesting point of discussion, nonetheless.

Final thought (calm down, Jerry); we drove it to South Wales for out summer holiday and i was reminded (despite all of the problems) what a great car it is, quiet and refined enough when you need it, fast and loud when the kids aren't puking in the back 🤣.

On 17/06/2025 at 15:16, Alasdair1 said:

Perhaps the original parts fitted were very good but I am finding that the parts that skoda supply as so called Skoda OEM don't last nearly as long as the originals. Front shocks on my old Octavia were replaced with genuine Skoda just before I bought it and they started leaking after 2 years as well as ball joints failing in the same time. The originals managed to last 10 years and 100k

Alasdair

Totally agree I had this also new genuine shock absorbers front from skoda listers failed leaked within 2 years biggest regret always buy OE Bilstein sachs lemforder these brands never hardly fail and can be trusted and at a fraction of the cost compared to these stealerships

irony is always use aftermarkets

I have been using KYB for a good few years now on quite a few different cars and had no problems at all. Sachs/LUK for clutches etc. Only time I buy OE skoda is if its a part thats difficult to source or skoda only.

Alasdair

absolutely these parts are all just as good and long lasting fit right first time and rarely go bad genuine skoda octavia balljoint TPS £50 plus vat

lemforder £36 all in with locking nuts

Aftermarket are indeed premium parts How I know because worked in factories in UK that make these parts for Skoda Jaguar LandRover Toyota etc its pure greed and profiteering the VW group trying to monopolise control the market prices on parts have u noticed the boxes are genuine and are labelled EAC what does this tell you? Made here packaged here distributed all around Europe and then bought back into UK weird eh??