Hi guys

working to get a cheap fabia back on the road for my son and yesterday the remote central locking stopped working.

The key wont work in the drivers door and is tempremantal in the ignition.

I only have one key as well.

My question is what do i need to get to replace the whole locking system on the car?

obviously i need door locks and boot as well as ignition etc, but i dont know what i need as for immobilizer wise.

I really need 2 keys as my son has a habbit of loosing them.

i called VW today and they want just shy of £270 plus vat for 1 key to be cut which has to be sent to germany and will take around 2 to 3 weeks.

£80 plus vat each to program the keys , half a deposit up front and the car for 2 days.

the car wont be roadworthy for at least a year so out of luck there.

my local timpsons want £280 per key to be cut and programmed and thats if they can do it they say.

Do i need anything like ecu's , or something to read the immobilizer chip in the ignition

what other cars have the same locks as the fabia that i might try get from..

at a push i can get someone with vagcom and i think epromm programmer or something to read the key and let me program it but i need some sort of cable for the laptop to do it. (cant remember what its called, laptop to obd cable anyway). but i still need to find fresh unprogrammed keyfobs to do that.

Any help is appreciated.

Tia

When you say key won't work in drivers lock does it turn or is the lock stuck. They have a habit of seizing up as they never get used. Try spraying wd40 or similar into lock and leave for a while. As for the ignition it could be the chip in the key thats failed but if its tempramental it may be the reader thats in or around ignition thats not picking up key or perhaps the ignition switch itself. I assume you changed the battery in the fob?

You could get a second hand fob off ebay and get a new blade cut and a decent auto locksmith should be able to copy the chip in your original key and fit it to the new one.

Are the electric windows working?

On a 2007 Fabia, the 'key turned in lock' signal goes via the electric window motor module, so if that's dead, the c/l via key in door doesn't work either.

Hi Alisdair1

The key won't turn the door lock at all. I have put WD40 in it but the lock seems seized. Leaving the car unlocked so I can get in to work on it.

The key won't start the car either now so I'm presuming the chip is fried or the receiver.

Yes I replaced the battery as a matter of maintenance as it was a little weak to start with . Having to press numerous times to open and lock the doors.

I've looked at the fabia keys on fleabay and all seems to show a rectangular key fob where I have a oval one. (Pic attached).

Timpsons want £ 163 per key. Nearest store 40miles away

Cheapest locksmith £184 per key. 70odd miles away.

I think I'm going to have to buy 2nd hand bits.

So what will I need??

Ignition barrel and keys.

The chip receiver which I presume is connected to the barrel somewhere??

Door locks

I see people selling the whole lot including ECU and I presume a matched fusebox of sorts and also the dashboard.

Do I need all this or can I get away with just the ignition barrel and receiver and door locks?

Thanks.

26 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Are the electric windows working?

On a 2007 Fabia, the 'key turned in lock' signal goes via the electric window motor module, so if that's dead, the c/l via key in door doesn't work either.

No the electric windows don't work neither does the central locking switch on the driver's door.

Does the backlighting in the switchpack work when vehicle lights are on? (Might need to wait until dusk to be able to see).

Check fuse 11 in cabin fusebox too.

7 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Does the backlighting in the switchpack work when vehicle lights are on? (Might need to wait until dusk to be able to see).

Check fuse 11 in cabin fusebox too.

I would be telling a lie if I said yes or no that the switches light up or not. I will check it later when I get home.

All the fuses are ok. I have checked them a few times as the numberplate bulbs kept blowing the fuse ..mainly.as someone had rapped the light in foil and it was touching the bodywork. Sorted now tho and the lights on chime also works now when the key is left in the ignition.

With the key in ignition problem, does it crank over or not, when misbehaving? Or does it start then cut out after a few seconds (immobiliser related)?

4 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

With the key in ignition problem, does it crank over or not, when misbehaving? Or does it start then cut out after a few seconds (immobiliser related)?

Last week it was hit or miss when it started. It would crank but not start. I would leave it then go back later and it would start no problem and run fine.

Now it's just crank no start.

My thoughts were crankshaft position sensor amongst other things but something is telling me it's all to do with the key and immobilizer

Fuel filter, plugs etc are all new. Done them first as no history in the last 5years .

Coils seem ok on multimeter. Nothing untoward showing on diagnostic either. Only codes was for the power steering which I'm tackling in the next few days hopefully. Injectors firing all ok (when running).

I'm just trying to eliminate what I can.

Immobiliser trouble tends to give start then cut out, and show key symbol fault light after cut, I think, so doubt it's that.

Crank sensor, or wiring to it sounds like a fair bet, but PITA to access for checking/changing.

How many miles has the car done? Sorry if you already told me.

9 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

How many miles has the car done? Sorry if you already told me.

ita either 128k or 138k cant remember of the top of my head

12 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Immobiliser trouble tends to give start then cut out, and show key symbol fault light after cut, I think, so doubt it's that.

Crank sensor, or wiring to it sounds like a fair bet, but PITA to access for checking/changing.

if i remeber right the key light on the dash does flash, i havent paid too much attention to it, im getting really frustrated with it lol.

i would have thought the diagnostic would have shown a crank sensor problem if there is one, im not saying its not tho im no expert .

regardless of what the issue is i still need to get a complete set of locks as one key isnt enough.

can i ask if you know if i buy a 2nd hand ignition barrel and door locks with remote cental locking keys it is plug and play and engine will start, (presuming the car was all ok) or do i need extras like ecu, fuseboxes , modules etc.

I can get ecu, ignition, doorlocks, 2 keys,etc for around £100ish. still way cheaper than getting a key cut and possibly a new door lock anyway as its siezed .

'Fraid I have no experience or knowledge about changing keys/immo chips/locks etc.

Immobiliser function is processed in the instrument cluster but engine ECU also involved, I think.

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

'Fraid I have no experience or knowledge about changing keys/immo chips/locks etc.

Immobiliser function is processed in the instrument cluster but engine ECU also involved, I think.

Thanks mate.

That would explain why they are selling everything at once.

I am fairly sure if I match up the numbers on the parts it should be a straight swap more or less..worth a try anyway.

Remembered while washing up that the unit in charge of central locking is the central convenience control unit.

That's not the big square one with lots of connectors in two rows, above accelerator pedal (RHD), but a smaller rectangular box that's mounted above clutch pedal (bit of a pain to get to and extract).

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Remembered while washing up that the unit in charge of central locking is the central convenience control unit.

That's not the big square one with lots of connectors in two rows, above accelerator pedal (RHD), but a smaller rectangular box that's mounted above clutch pedal (bit of a pain to get to and extract).

Thanks.

I had no idea where they were until now lol.

I will have to make sure I get one with the smaller box then. Most I have seen don't come with that so thanks for pointing that out

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Immobiliser trouble tends to give start then cut out, and show key symbol fault light after cut, I think, so doubt it's that.

Crank sensor, or wiring to it sounds like a fair bet, but PITA to access for checking/changing.

Had imobilser problems on an old seat with dodgy key/broken transponder chip. It was diesel so started then stopped and displayed safe? Thing got stuck in imobilser mode. Garage I spoke to said petrols can be different crank but don't start at all so was thinking it might be a transponder fault or key reader thats failed.

Alasdair

11 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Had imobilser problems on an old seat with dodgy key/broken transponder chip. It was diesel so started then stopped and displayed safe? Thing got stuck in imobilser mode. Garage I spoke to said petrols can be different crank but don't start at all so was thinking it might be a transponder fault or key reader thats failed.

Alasdair

I've seen ignition barrel and key replacement for less than £20 with the key and chip in it and the barrel has the transponder on it I might just give that a try. It's a cheap test.

I just wish I could find a actual barrel rebuild kit .

I used to make up locks daily when I worked at ford. They came where you could build up a barrel to the key number. This was on the chubb and tibbe keys.

However I can't see anything like that for the fabia.