I have a strange problem with my Karoq, 70000 miles, when the weather is dry and warm, I can hear a knocking sound on the right front side on bumps, sometimes a slight squeak, there is no play anywhere on the suspension, the right shock absorber is a little but very slightly greasy and I wipe it off and only after a month is it a little again and so on. In general, the shock absorbers are bad, when I press the front hood or under it, when the car is in the garage, it bounces, that is, the shock absorbers do not stop it properly. In one or both of them, I can hear a gurgling of fluid, like bubbles or something, probably a lack of oil. When I press it 10 times and release the shock absorbers "inflate" and then the front end returns to normal. Regardless, for the first 2 km there is a knocking sound and a squeak but a little, like some kind of rubber. And later on when driving it is occasionally heard, now it has been raining for several days and everything is wet and nothing can be heard, nothing at all. Can anyone explain this mystery? I mean to change the front shock absorbers and the links of the torsion bar, in the store they don't want to sell me only the shock absorbers, but together with the supports and bearings on the upper side, they say that it is changed as a set. I would do it myself because I have the tools and have already changed shocks on 3 previous cars.

opinions?

Edited 8 July, 20258 Jul by imart143

As you admit the shock absorbers are bad the first step is to have them changed.

I don't know if it's date specific but our 22 Karoq makes a knocking sound which supposedly comes from the front shock absorber pistons rattling in the bump stops.

It's most noticeable on slow corners, especially when there more than two people in the car.

Dealer "fixed" it by greasing the pistons but it came back after 6 months, although we don't use the car much. They said they regreased them at last service but I don't believe them and it was just as noisy as before.

Edited 8 July, 20258 Jul by Rory

i did replaced shock absorbers, bearings, dust protectors and rubber upper parts connecting shocks to body.

i also replaced those tiny connection torque bar links. i didnt see noticable play but as are them half disasembled i put new one looks like original (Febi bilstein)

all shocks, bearings and rubber holders and other stuff are Sachs.

replaced driveshaft big bolts from trilesquare to normal 6 square bokts from vw transporter. bolt quality is same, 8.8 lenght little longer, from 70mm to 75 but it does not matter.

i dont have dedicated triplesquare socket so i use regular 12 square 24 socket to release bolts and regular 27mm 6 square socket to tighten new bolts. they have same purpose, put a loctite blue on thread and torqued to 200 Nm. after all was done, i put wheels on ground, torqued rim bolts with 120 Nm and on driveshaft bolt added 3x45 degrees, i have not more strenght in muscles and in my ower back that hurts, somewhere i have some a 1 meter long steel pipe to extend handle with an inner diameter greater than 1 inch, which is the diameter of the handle of a 3/4 inch lever, 455 mm long, an impact socket adapter to 1/2 which sockets I have all of medium quality brands (some Hazet but mostly Unior, LUX, Proxxon, Stahl, not Stahlwille, I don't know if this tool still exists.)

After the complete assembly of the front suspension, the car no longer rocks, doesn't bang or drift, doesn't dance in the corner, except that I hear a slight metallic scraping sound, I think I bent the front disc's protective sheet a little so I still have to straighten that out. One driveshaft bolt went 180 degrees and stopped, no matter how much I jumped on the lever with all my body weight, it didn't go even 1 mm while the other one could go further, but I don't think I reached 180 degrees, probably 160. But I think it's all holding up well, because it's really tight. Now I'm planning on rear shock absorbers, because they're from the same era, there's no Sachs replacement OEM but there are Bilstein B4 which are like the originals. It's interesting that the current Sachs front ones are a little longer than the OEM ones that were factory-fitted on the Azjuta, about 1 inch higher, although it's not visible either optically or behind the wheel. piston is longer, or it goes more up, lower black tube body is same.