Hi all, love this forum. Firstly thank you all for the constant help you have provided me to date as a casual user. May I please ask for some guidance for you all

My 2019 Superb 2.0 TDI has developed a rather curious problem. I’ve done some research but haven’t found anything quite like this. After not driving my car for a few days, I started a long journey home and with 5-10 minutes the temperature garage went to 130 and the coolant light came on. I pulled over, switched it off. Started checking the usual, coolant levels. Pipes for heat. It wasn’t actually over heating as it hadn’t got hot enough for the whole system to be hot. I started it back up and turned the A/C on know that would get the fans running. The temperature now returned to 90 and I continued on my way. It started to fluctuate but not over heating again. I took it o my mechanic who checked for fault codes and he said the oil temperature had a stored fault which I presume was when the coolant light came on. The oil level was just below half so he topped it up and said that low oil levels can cause it to over heat. I have driven it since mainly with the AC on so have not had it again until recently when I have been regularly getting it after a cold start. Oil temperature gets to about 80-90 and the coolant temp is sitting at 90 all after 5-10 minutes driving then the needle starts creeping. Turn the AC on and it stabilises. Once it’s at temperature and oil temp is about 100 with the AC off it is fine.

I have my theories but want to hear from some of you guys first please, before I start spending money of hunches.

Has the water pump been replaced, given the previous issues with water pumps in the Superb multiple threads in this forum, I would start there.

Hi gfinneran,

Thank you for responding. The milegage of my Superb has just hit 71K. The timing belt replacement schedule is 140K 😱 which I can’t get my head around. It’s on my next service schedule to be done with a water pump too which maybe being bought forward and I have explored numerous threads relating to the water pump issues and the shroud. I’ve watch a video on this so now understand how it impacts the water pumps efficiency but there is something boggling at me that it is not that. That is that it gets warm as the thermostats is closed but spikes quickly after a good few minutes of being at that temperature then stabilises.

My gut is telling me the thermostats is sticking before opening properly but I didn’t want to say that before getting others takes on this and potentially influencing their initial assessments. If that makes sense.

Your mechanic is correct low oil level can raise engine temps, since you have less lubricant whose job is also to remove heat from the engine, but I think in your case this is negiglibe ... you were missing half of a dipstick (if I read right) or you had half of the engine oil topped?. Too little to make a difference.

If you are not missing coolant, then there is no leak, then your culprits are few, water pump shroud sticking, thermostat sticking, possible blockage in the radiator, or in the heater core, or some kink in some hose ... there is not much more into it, actually. I reckon you do not have the 'mit silikat' teabag.

Now you want no hunches, but sometimes, most of the time, we do not get that luxury ... without going overboard, if this repeats continously, is more than just a sensor going haywire.

I would plan timing belt change, water pump and thermostat replaced, new coolant.

Address in one single blow more than one, because doing them independently will cost you more.

2 hours ago, leolito said:

I would plan timing belt change, water pump and thermostat replaced, new coolant.

Address in one single blow more than one, because doing them independently will cost you more.

Thank you so much for your input. The coolant level is correct and has remained so. A visual inspection by him did not find any other abnormalities like a kinked hose. When it first happened and after researching I did initially jump to a timing belt change and water pump. This was after it happening once but he said to monitor it.

As you stated above, I think this is now my course of action.

I have spoken to Skoda to obtain the price of a Thermostat as I was looking at doing this myself, but frustratingly they informed me there are two types for my car, Joop and Geiger and the only way to tell is to check which one is fitted. So before I do this I need to strip out the air filter housing to see this.

Hi all, a quick update. There are two types of thermostats for my car. I’ve tried to see on the housing the manufactures make but that was very tricky. So I’m am going to get it booked in for the work to be done. I’m in North London, Barnet, and have had quotes from Skoda for £1276 for the timing belt and water pump to be replaced. And £999 from a VW, Audi and Skoda specialist.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a Skoda specialist for this work in this area please?

Hi all, so after delaying and delaying I finally bit the bullet and booked my car in for a Cambelt change and water pump too. The garage I have been using recently, a sole trader, informed me he did not have the special tool required to do it. I found another garage and after visiting and speaking to them, booked it in. I was quoted just over £1000, which I know I would have to spend at some point due to the mileage and age meaning a belt change would be immanent. Done in a day, no issues. And all the problems I had been having are no more. I have left it for a good few weeks incase it did reoccur but so far so good. I am now very confident that my suspicions of it being to do with the electronic shroud part of the water pump was correct.

Lets hope I haven’t just jinked it 🤞🏻🙏🏻

Thanks all for you help.

Good stuff Ryan - glad it was all sorted in the end. Feels like a lot to spend but in doing it all in one go is definitely the best way to get it sorted.

My 2019 Skoda Superb 2.0 diesel recently (last two months) started to periodically overheat, with big red warning messages on the dash. I would pull-over and stop for a minute or two, then restart the engine. Sometimes it would then run normally, other times it would start to overheat again. I arranged for a local garage near Matfield in East Sussex to get the water pump replaced (cambelt replaced at the same time). Mileage 46,000. Cost £800. The mechanic showed me the old water pump. The shroud was stuck. Clearly this is a bit of a weakness in the water pump design. Annoying, as the car generally is enjoyable and practical one to drive.

On 08/12/2025 at 21:00, Ryanthefireman said:

Hi all, so after delaying and delaying I finally bit the bullet and booked my car in for a Cambelt change and water pump too. The garage I have been using recently, a sole trader, informed me he did not have the special tool required to do it. I found another garage and after visiting and speaking to them, booked it in. I was quoted just over £1000, which I know I would have to spend at some point due to the mileage and age meaning a belt change would be immanent. Done in a day, no issues. And all the problems I had been having are no more. I have left it for a good few weeks incase it did reoccur but so far so good. I am now very confident that my suspicions of it being to do with the electronic shroud part of the water pump was correct.

Lets hope I haven’t just jinked it 🤞🏻🙏🏻

Thanks all for you help.

£1k seems a bit steep, genuine parts can be had for around £200 so that's a nice little earner for a couple of hours work but i guess its london so half expected. As for a mechanic saying he doesnt have the specialist tool required, £20 or so buys the specialist tool required so if he cant afford that, he's probably better avoided anyway.
what kind of water pump are they fitting? original with shroud or aftermarket without,
some people prefer shroudless as it removes the same thing happening again, however be prepared for longer heat up times