Hello guys,

I'm new around and I'm planning to buy a new car. Ye that's right, it's gonna be a Skoda Octavia 3 Facelift vRS TDI.

I've heard alot of people complaining about oil consumption on this engine, is that true? or just people over exagerating for 1L of oil / 10.000km?

You can share any other issues that I have to pay attention when I'm going to check the car.

Thanks in advance, have a great day.

Edited 30 October, 202530 Oct by rdulama94

We've just bought a 2017 VRS (CUNA) and I'm curious to see what oil it uses between services, our old VRS (CEGA engine code) used no oil and was at about <270k when sold last weekend.

Seems like previous servicing will play an important part from what I understand?

Our new VRS had a new heater matrix prior to us getting it and the expansion tank was apparently relieved of the Silica bag which was the cause of the matrix being blocked.

Good cars but like everything, they'll have issues !

Skoda Octavia VRS 2.0TDI (CUPA EA288) high oil consumption - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) - BRISKODA

Expansion bottle replacement - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) - BRISKODA

VW Group have for decades said for all engines, petrol or diesel, and 3,4,5,6,8,10 or 12 cylinder 'may use 0.5 litres in 1,000 km.) 621 miles, so 1 litre in 2,000 km / 1,242 miles.

1 litre in 10,000 km is not excessive. but 1 litre in 2,000 km is, and not within tolerance, They just like to cover their ar$e.

Edited 30 October, 202530 Oct by Evolution13

Like JohnMack, I pensioned off my 2008 BKD engined Octavia diesel earlier this year to buy a 2016 vRS diesel with the CUNA engine on around 145,000 miles.

Like any car, previous maintenace is vital and the car I bought didn't have much recent history - silly me! The memsahib and I both loved the car when we saw it but after a few weeks, the problems started. The pale orange engine light came on shortly followed by the curly glow plug light which sent it into limp mode; I'd also noticed a heavy oil consumption -~ 1/3rd litre in 200 miles. To cut a long story short, it's had three exhaust gas temp sensors, two DPF pressure sensors, EGR valve cooler and DPF all replaced at a total cost of around £3,000. The heavy oil consumption turned out to be a leak from a missing gasket somewhere in the turbo area which allowed oil to leak onto the manifold but it's still a lot higher than I am used to. It is because the oil used in these engines is so thin (0-30) that it just disappears. If thicker oil is used, the residues clog up the DPF which will ultimately block with replacements available at £1,200 - £1,800 depending on where you get them from. Ignore re-worked ones as a bad job.

Notwithstanding the above horror story, we both still love the car; it seems to be well engineered, (DPF system aside) has more than enough power and handling to keep a retired rally driver happy in his dotage!!

On 31/10/2025 at 20:48, SwallownAmazon said:

If thicker oil is used, the residues clog up the DPF

I'd disagree.

Thicker oil can still be DPF compatible.

Oil viscosity is more related to climate and bearing clearances than DPF life.

Low ash 5W30 exists yeah

In 2016 the VW / Skoda recommended oil was still 5w 30 FS III VW504 00 / 507 00 & not yet 0w 30 FS III VW504 00 / 507 00.

Yes, 'twas a mis-type. Still, 5W30 is still knatsy thin - like sewing machine oil. I'm much more used to 20W50 or even straight SAE40 in my classics......

Edited 2 November, 20252 Nov by SwallownAmazon
Spullin'

Many will have in classics. I did in V8,s.

But a Euro 6 emissions TDI is hardly that & it has been 5w 30 FS III for 'Long time mister!'. .

Hi everyone! I've been a happy vRS owner for a few weeks now. It's a 2015 CUP engine. I'm aware of the oil consumption problem (I don't know yet if mine is affected, but I'm anticipating it). I'd like to prepare for a future engine overhaul. I've found many different types of pistons and bearings. Does anyone have any information or experience on which part number piston or piston ring set is worth buying? Is there a revised version of these?

Thank you! Have a nice evening!

Hi @Kovacsd - generally first check the quality of the oil. You need 5W30 LongLife III oil. Make sure you have good clean oil and a proper VAG / Bosch filter for your engine. You are allowed 0.5 litres per 1000kms. Anything above that is deemed excessive and needs investigation. Reset the oil service on the car, then note your consumption over a 1000kms and see how much oil you have used.

Two areas of failure: Failed EGR valve which allows dirt and crud back into the engine causing stuck piston rings and/or cylinder scoring. You can check the status of the cylinder bore of each cylinder by a boroscope. Also do a compression test and see what that is. You are allowed up to 8% difference in pressure between cylinders. If the bore is good, then 4 new piston rings is the order - don't just replace one, as you may suffer from high differential of compression.

Hi! Thank you for your reply! I started our joint future with a fluid and timing belt replacement. I currently put in Motul X-Clean 8100 oil with Bosch filters. I read a lot about the various problematic water pumps and finally installed an INA timing kit. I also replaced the oil pump belt.

I will definitely perform a compression test and monitor the oil level as well. I want to gather experience until spring, because I will have time to deal with the engine in early summer, if necessary.

Do you happen to know what kind of piston and ring set is worth buying? OEM? Mahle? Kolbenschmidt?

I perform the repairs myself; my original profession is a motorcycle mechanic, so I have encountered a few engine blocks before, and I hope this one won't defeat me either.

On 12/11/2025 at 17:53, Kovacsd said:

I also replaced the oil pump belt.

....my original profession is a motorcycle mechanic

I'm assuming the wee belt was easy enough to change, just the time involved in removing and refitting the sump? I'm assuming there's no recommended service interval for replacement ?

What era of bikes did you mainly work on?

Since you're already replacing the timing belt and water pump, it’s not much extra work to change the oil pump belt too. It’s worth doing it then and using a new crankshaft seal as well.

I’ve worked on all kinds of bikes, but mostly 10-20 year old Japanese models, including dirt bikes and scooters. My experience includes engine rebuilds, piston and valve repairs, and similar jobs.

5 hours ago, Kovacsd said:

I’ve worked on all kinds of bikes, but mostly 10-20 year old Japanese models, including dirt bikes and scooters. My experience includes engine rebuilds, piston and valve repairs, and similar jobs.

I've been doing cars for years but have an engine swap do on my ZZR600, potentially have the valve clearances to do on the replacement engine before it goes in.......haven't checked them yet ?!

If the engine's history is unknown, definitely check the valve clearances before you install it. It's much easier that way

On 09/01/2026 at 19:41, Kovacsd said:

If the engine's history is unknown, definitely check the valve clearances before you install it. It's much easier that way

Thanks, I've been you-tubing ........ clearances don't look too bad to do, and definitely easier with engine out !

I think our CUNA engined VRS is using about 0.3 litres per 1000 miles, I can handle that ...... but it's 0.3 litres more than I put in between services on the old car with 270k miles !! .....I'm not bitter though 😉

My understanding is the rings become stuck?(long life servicing?), has anyone tried dropping anything into the cylinders to free them ?.....worth a try ??

It's been using more oil for me, about 1l/1000 km. In the spring, when school is over, I'll take a look at the engine, I want to fix it.

On 01/02/2026 at 19:33, JohnMack said:

I think our CUNA engined VRS is using about 0.3 litres per 1000 miles, I can handle that ...... but it's 0.3 litres more than I put in between services on the old car with 270k miles !! .....I'm not bitter though 😉

My understanding is the rings become stuck?(long life servicing?), has anyone tried dropping anything into the cylinders to free them ?.....worth a try ??

It's been using more oil for me, about 1l/1000 km. In the spring, when school is over, I'll take a look at the engine, I want to fix it.