hi all

things seem to be the same here in Greece.

Rattle comes (for my car - a 2.0 petrol 4x4 estate) from right doors mainly.

Lubricating has done nothing so far.

I want to ask for these to be replaced at my cost, but I still have not found out what really is the cause of the rattle.

In new cars, the only difference I spotted is that the lock, the part that sits on the body - not the door, has a rubber-like sheet behind the metal part, where it meets the car body.

Is THIS the cause ?

Finally got into Lakeland's web site catalogue. Here is what it says about

FREE'N'EASY

Forget about sticking doors, drawers, windows, curtain rails, patio doors or anything that slides... even sails on boats!

Odourless, colourless and silicon rather than oil based, Free 'n' Easy leaves a film which is undetectable apart from the fact that the two surfaces become almost frictionless, to create effortless sliding.

One application lasts for months. You'll be amazed at how effective it really is.

Wendy recommends

"Miracle in a bottle."

Actual Lakeland product is Free 'N' Easy - comes in 35ml bottles. Had mine quite a while so am not sure if they still sell it but its worth asking.

I havn't had to reapply mine since my original post so it does last a long time

Finally managed to get my "Free'n'Easy" order in to Lakeland, and I await its arrival with bated breath! Cost

i can't help but feel that the door noise problem won't be resolved by changing or lubricating the seals.i have the feeling that the source of the problem is the square shaped metal brace on the T-pillar.A good solution would be to get them changed with the ones from audi or vw which have a hard plastic cover at the point where they fasten onto the door lock.check it out

i can't help but feel that the door noise problem won't be resolved by changing or lubricating the seals.i have the feeling that the source of the problem is the square shaped metal brace on the T-pillar.A good solution would be to get them changed with the ones from audi or vw which have a hard plastic cover at the point where they fasten onto the door lock.check it out

That's interesting. Do you mean that the VW part will fit straight onto an Octavia? Might try it if the Lakeland lube doesn't work out.

I think this "door seal" problem we have seen mentioned a lot could well be several different problems in different cars, from different areas and faults. Mine is quite different since I got the new seals! Not too sure if it is better or worse, but thankfully it is not there after a few minutes from cold.

I wondered why opening the window a crack cured it [more so before the change of seals]. It made me wonder if it was something to do with inside and outside air pressure differences, cancelled out by opening the window about 1 cm.

I think this "door seal" problem we have seen mentioned a lot could well be several different problems in different cars, from different areas and faults. Mine is quite different since I got the new seals! Not too sure if it is better or worse, but thankfully it is not there after a few minutes from cold.

I agree I have two noises. The first is definately the seals at the top of the window rubbing togteher and creaking. Most noticeable on bumply tarmac or when the car is put through sideways lateral forces, ie turning a sharp 90 degrees slowly. This noise is not apparent when the window is open but that may be partly due to outside noises drowning it out, or it could by air pressure differences. I think lubricating would help(and did help when my dealer did it for a while) which is why I have ordered the lakeland product. I really can't understand why the designers of the Octy II allowed this to happen, in no other car I have been in recently does it happen including several fabia.

The second noise, to which I believe others have alluded, is a sharp loud tapping noise coming from the door, sometimes when setting off at speed or braking hard. Someone described as having a ball bearing rolling around inside the door. I have a feeling this may be to do with the window knocking inside the door. I tested this theory by lowing the window of the driver's side by about half, gripping the top with my hand and pushing it outwards: result tapping noise of the type complained of.

It could be that noise number too is the door latch mechanism as described above, and I think that is definately worth exploring if the VW / Audi parts mentioned are in fact a direct replacement.

Olly

I don't have the knocking or "ball bearing" noise. But what I can't understand is why the noise is so erratic. I drive on the same piece (s) of road in the same car and in the same way, day after day. Some days no noise whatsoever, other days a little creaking for a few minutes then it stops, and so on.

Anyway, if the Lakeland goo does the job for even a few weeks at a time I'll be a happy bunny, because the car has no other problems so far as I can tell.

hey guys,bring out the champagn,i finally got it fixed.i simply went to a reputable body shop where the technician adjusted the P shaped brackets causing the door to close more tightly but not so much that you would have to slam it.he also unscrewed the top of the two screws holding the lock in place and sprayed w40 inside.

as a car gets older the seals lose their elasticity and the doors have to be adjusted in order to compensate for this.i would suggest that you don't waste your money on new seals which by the way cost 32 euros in greece

Are the new seals furry and the old ones like just rubber.

If so a certain skoda dealer in my area claimed to have fitted the modified door seals under warrenty and got me to sign saying they did.

Since I had no idea what they looked like, I obviously signed, when it appears all they did was cut a little bit off the old ones.

If this is the case I'm going to go in there and give them hell, even though I said I'd never use them again.

There have never been two types of seals in greece.I have never seen the furry ones.You don't need them anyway.Try implementing the solution I proposed above.

My seals looked the same as the ones supposedly replaced. The noise was from new so it wasn't to do with ageing. I also first adjusted the plate on the door but it made no difference. I might well try the WD40 lock spray but I would be surprised if it helped.

So far, the Lakeland product is working well. I am applying it to each seal on one door at a time, to see what happens. So far I have done the two fronts and it is much better. Don't forget the vertical rubber seal that is fixed to the front edge of the rear doors. I am a bit suspicious of that too.

However I think when I've done all 4 doors properly it will use most of the 35 ml bottle so it has to last a long time to be worthwhile!

Part of the rubber seal which runs down the top of where the drivers wing mirror is attached to car is curled out, that couldn't be good for the wind noise, anyone have this?

Hey, this Lakeland stuff is pretty good! Have done 3 doors so far and just about 95% cured the trrouble.

Considering how very rough the weather has been [which is usually when the rattle is at its worst from cold] I am very pleased. Will do last door as soon as a dry spell arrives - then to see how long the improvement lasts.

Hey, this Lakeland stuff is pretty good! Have done 3 doors so far and just about 95% cured the trrouble.

Considering how very rough the weather has been [which is usually when the rattle is at its worst from cold] I am very pleased. Will do last door as soon as a dry spell arrives - then to see how long the improvement lasts.

Any pics on the troublesome area ?

heres the area I was referring to, http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia-ii/door-window-seal/96035/

Any pics on the troublesome area ?

heres the area I was referring to, http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia-ii/door-window-seal/96035/

I never found out the exact area! The seals look "normal" - I just lightly coated all the ones connected with one door at a time. If I had to guess the origin of the clatter it would be the long vertical strip that sticks out from the front edge of the rear doors, that the front door closes against. But this is just a gut feeling. Also, bear in mind this isn't really wind noise - it actually disappears at speed.

So far so good, but if it only lasts a couple of weeks say, it isn't going to be worth keeping on re-doing it.

Door seal rattle gone. Stuff works!!

Are the new seals furry and the old ones like just rubber.

If so a certain skoda dealer in my area claimed to have fitted the modified door seals under warrenty and got me to sign saying they did.

Since I had no idea what they looked like, I obviously signed, when it appears all they did was cut a little bit off the old ones.

If this is the case I'm going to go in there and give them hell, even though I said I'd never use them again.

Had it confirmed by the dealer I was using, so they have put the new door seals on back order for me.

Said previous dealer is going to get a rather large rocket up their ar*e. I am Severly not impressed now.

I've been following this thread for a long as I've never solved my door seals rattle. Went through dealers, silicon sprays... There was no help. As I'm on vacations, I've decided to spend whole day today investigating the problem step by step. So, I first went and washed with detergent all seals I could find. Let them dry and then, with all doors open and all windows down, I've just closed the driver's door. After that, from the outside, I started to push the door part by part, while closed. On the bottom - nothing, on the sides - nothing, on the top - cracking. It was the same noise I could hear while driving, especialy comming out of my garage as I have to go up the ramp and turn left in the middle of it. As car changes it's weight on each wheel, chassis was bending a little. It's normal but that was the moment when cracking was most audible. So, I've replicated that exact noise. As I was pushing the door along the top of the door/frame, I've understood that the noise was comming from along the whole top. Next step was to put paper tape on whole seal on the chassis, that seals driver's door. No change - so it's not that seal. Next, I took out the tape from that seal and put it on the seal that is installed on the top of the door (not on the main body). While putting it I found it strange how that seal has such a "plastic" feeling. Almost doesn't feel like a rubber. Done the same test again and cracking was 80% gone. 80% is already a lot but I wanted 100%. So, put the tape on the same seal (keeping the previous one) but on the side facing the metal of the door. That way, seal was wrapped all arround. Closed the door and did the test again - 100% silent. As my problem was from both front doors, did the same thing on the passenger side. Then I took the car out of garage and done that turning in the middle of the ramp that should give most cracking. Complete silence.

So, either I didn't understand from previous posts that problem was the seal on the top of the door itself and not on the main body, or other people didn't think so as well. At least, I found that creaking comes from both surfaces of the seal. At this point I put a lot of silicon spray on those areas and car is 100% silent. We'll see for how long.

Has anyone tried Glycerine?

Well, just went through many BMW forums. There are many BMW owners suffering from the same problem on their new, used and very old cars. They strongly advice not to use silicon or silicon based lubricants as they tend to dry out the rubber that seals ar made of. Their advice is consistent vaseline and some say glycerine would do as well. Found one that uses olive oil twice a year and has his seals silent all over a year.

I'll see in few days. If it comes back quickly, I'll wash seals again and try consistent vaseline.

I'll fight it till the end. I can't stand the creaking anymore.

One more thing. If it comes back I'll go to the showroom and look at brand new Octy to see if seals are any different.

Any chance of a photo pointing out the exact area you mention. I have an irritating noise from the Passangers door, but thought it was from the very corner of the dash. No harm it checking what you mention as it does happen when on uneven surfaces.

Any chance of a photo pointing out the exact area you mention. I have an irritating noise from the Passangers door, but thought it was from the very corner of the dash. No harm it checking what you mention as it does happen when on uneven surfaces.

There is no need for picture. Close the passenger door, keep the window open. Then just start pushing the door in and out, along the area above the window (that would be along the top of the door). If it reproduces the noise you have, then we have the same problem.

I've found definite solution. BMW dealers apply "teflon self-adhesive tape" along the area where seal touches the body. They apply it on the body, not on the seal. Sounds great, as teflon is very, very thin and feels so slippery that there is no way seals would make any noise. The tape is transparent.

The only problem I have is that there is no such a tape in any shop, never heard of it. No tape on eBay as well. Still don't know what to do.

here is one interesting link from BMW forum:

The never ending story of the door gaskets... - bimmerfest - BMW Forums

They do teflon tape for curtain tracks IIRC.

I have found from experience that you MUST also treat all the rubber seals around the doors including the rubber seal attached to the front edge of the rear doors - which seals to the front doors - to kill all the squeaks.

Do not just treat the inner door seals.

I used the Lakeland product to good effect but as I ran out I last used some silicon spray onto a cloth and wiped around the seals - done every 6 months totally eliminates the noise.

I have found from experience that you MUST also treat all the rubber seals around the doors including the rubber seal attached to the front edge of the rear doors - which seals to the front doors - to kill all the squeaks.

Do not just treat the inner door seals.

I used the Lakeland product to good effect but as I ran out I last used some silicon spray onto a cloth and wiped around the seals - done every 6 months totally eliminates the noise.

Yes, that's the way I do it. Inner seals don't squeak at all on my Octy so I don't touch them. Applied silicon grease yesterday to outer seals (those you've talked about) and now it's 100% creaking free. I'll see for how long.