Hi guys,

I've got hold of a Porter Cable and used the Sonus SFX 1, 2 and 3 polishes on the cars. Granted, they haven't got rid of 100% of the swirls and marring but there's only around 20% remaining so it's done its job without removing too much paint. However next tiem I'm thinking of usign the Poorboys SSR range. Would using the SSR2, then 1 be the same thing as using the SFX 1,2 and 3, then finishing fof with a coat of wax? Or would I need to use something else? Just looking for somehting slightly stronger than the SFX 1 without removing too much paint. I know 4" pads are more effective but I don't want to go downt hat route, just want to stick with the 6" pads in case I mess things up.

After the SFX 3 polish I applied a coat of P21S and it looks great, however what is the best way of applying this and removing it with the buffer? (I am layzee and doing two cars by hand is a lot of time and effort :p)

I've also just got hold of the Zymol HD cleanse pre-wax cleaner and a tub of the Zymol Carbon wax (blue tub, smells like coconut ). Again what is the best way of applying and removing these with the porter cable and what pad should I use? And can the Zymol wax be layered in the same way as the P21S, ie leaving 12-24hrs till the additional coat goes on?

Any other advice is appreciated too

P.S. Whats the best/cheapest place to get hold of additional pads for the Porter Cable and some Poorboys SSR2 and SSR1 polishes?

i'd try the menzerna range. they never fail on VAG paint.

IP leaves an acceptable finish to wax over but to go one better get the FP2.

Menz, Pads and PB's available at Car Care - The finest products, the best advice - Polished Bliss

Yes, Menzerna IP works a treat on hard VAG paint. It does leave a lot of dust though.

I hear that there is a shortage of Menzerna polishes at the mo..

As for Zymol, I would only apply by hand and not PC.

HD Cleanse, use micofibre pad to apply, in straight lines only, one panel at a time and buff off. I tend to do this twice over per panel.

Then apply Carbon using the supplied pad. Apply thin and buff off.

Hi guys sorry for the late reply, been moving into uni. As suggested on the mk4's forum I'm going to try the Poorboys SSR2.5 and 1 to cut into the paint. Will have to order some new pads though as mine have started to disintegrate after doing three cars and washing them in the washing machine!

Will take pics next time I apply the Zymol wax as I've been using P21S so far

Try and get hold of a good lamp. I use a Brinkmans Xenon torch but lots on Detailing World use a Halogen Lamp.

This will show up the defects as you go along. Saves having to do it again after wax application...

Good luck with the SSR 2.5.

PS another polish is the Blackfire SRC polish. It's made by Menzerna.

never found car care stuff to beat these Meguiar's UK - Car Care Products

Sorry to hijack the thread but how often should I wax my car? After every wash?

I seem to recall only twice a year or it damages the paint, is this bull?

Mike Pembo

Sorry to hijack the thread but how often should I wax my car? After every wash?

I seem to recall only twice a year or it damages the paint, is this bull?

Mike Pembo

Correct its bull. I wax with Swissol every 5 or 6 washes

Correct its bull. I wax with Swissol every 5 or 6 washes

Thought it was all lies! At the moment I find myself washing the car at least every week to every 2 weeks, so re wax every 6-12 weeks?

Another myth I heard was that if a car is washed too much the paint would come off :eek: Now that must be bull!

Anyone else got any random myths or facts?

Mike Pembo

If you use polishing wax too often you will slowly be stripping your paint. Just pure wax will be ok.

Durability of the wax will play a big part on how often you will require to wax your car.

Some less durable waxes e.g. Pinnacle Soverign will last 3-4 weeks tops and more durable waxes e.g. Collinite 476s will last 6 months+.

I'm a bit green on polishing/waxing. Is it polish the car then wax or just wash and wax...or what..

I'm a bit green on polishing/waxing. Is it polish the car then wax or just wash and wax...or what..

Dont know to be honest, I normally just wash, polish then wax but found out that the polish I was using (AutoGylm super resin) does the same job as the wax so now I just wash using turtlewax shampoo (one cap), then dry, then wax. At this point I move onto the detailing of the trim etc.

1. Rinse - Get the car wet to remove loose crap so your not scratching the paint when you wipe it off. Also, I give inside the wheel arches a spray.

2. Spunge - Using a bucket of warm (not kettle warm and not fridge cold!) water mixed with turtlewax car shampoo. Again, remember to give the wheels a quick wipe using a different sponge - and if you want clean tyres wipe them too. Remember, roof first then work your way down.

3. Rinse (again) - Just get the shampoo off and leave it wet.

4. Dry - Remove excess water from paint work, I find this also stops any droplet outlines. Do the roof and bonnet first (or any other horizontal part). And again work down.

5. Wax/polish - Remember the karatee kid? "Wax on, Wax off". Use one old tea-towel (make sure its 100% cotton though) to apply a light coating of polish or wax and rub it in circular movements until there's a light whitish haze. Then, use the other cloth to buff it up and leave a gleaming (streak-free) panel.

HTH:thumbup:

Mike Pembo

I'm under the impression that polishing waxes will remove paint over time, and actually will damge your paint if you do it every time you wash.

For your average car, wash, then polish, then wax maybe 1 or 2 times a year.

If you want to top the wax up get a dedicated just wax *without* polish in it, then wash and wax it.

Just pick a decent wash that won't strip off the old wax.

Polishes normally contain abrasives to remove a layer of paint e.g. fine scratches or swirl marks.

Waxes offer protection for the paint and also add a glossy finish but do not correct any paint defects.

If you just wax over scratches, swirl marks then these will still be visible after especially whne the sun reflects off them.

Mine is still swirl free....ish. I put that down to high quality wax (Swissol)

Just to add, some products contain fillers to temporarily mask minor swirls.

These products are good for hiding minor defects but as the wax/sealant starts to wear thin, then the defects will re-appear.

Some popular products that contain fillers include-

Meguiars NXT Tech Wax

Meguiars #21 Sealent

Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze

P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser

Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion

Autoglym Super Resin Polish

Have a look at this great guide on swirl removal-

Swirl Removal : Basics - Detailing World

My point was that most waxes you buy at "a car store associated with ch*vs" contain waxes and polishing agents which will make a mess of the paint over time.

Hence polish occasionally and just top your wax up from time to time to keep the finish good.

My point was that most waxes you buy at "a car store associated with ch*vs" contain waxes and polishing agents which will make a mess of the paint over time.

Hence polish occasionally and just top your wax up from time to time to keep the finish good.

But is meguires Carrabuna wax one of the culprits of messing up if done too often?

if its just carnuba wax and claims no polishing effect then no.

The super resin IIRC contains polishing agents.

I know stage III out of the three stage megs stuff is just wax

Have a browse of detailingworld.co.uk and cleanandshiny.co.uk ...both are a fountain of detailing knowledge!

They'll point you in the right direction:thumbup: