I've alwyas wondered why Gran Turismo never had an option for "fold seats down" in the weight reduction area :confused:

I've alwyas wondered why Gran Turismo never had an option for "fold seats down" in the weight reduction area :confused:

:hilarius:

TeflonTom - 100bhp?? :eek: 2 x K&N = 200bhp, yes?

TeflonTom - 100bhp?? :eek: 2 x K&N = 200bhp, yes?

i see no reason why not!! for added ooomph you could add a stainless back-box from halfrauds, that should release another 50bhp!

personnaly i've seen a 1.8-20t turbo engine remapped giving 195bhp- great i here you all saying

then i saw a 1.8 20v n/a engine running 45mm throttle bodies producing 220bhp

Very true but I bet the n/a engine cost a hell of alot more than a

Tom, thats just taking it too far. Everyone knows you cant get a power increase from that.

Please try and keep to serious suggestions

also most 200bhp n/a cars that have been tuned to that level will have no where near the torque of the turbo engine and as ross says will cost slightly more too

You could also buy a resistor off fleabay for a quid or two, should be good for 20-30 ponies.........? :rofl:

How much is your car worth?

Sell it and get a Starlet Turbo, I think that would be right up your street.

Miaow!

And you saying that a 220 bhp 1.8 n/a has power from low down? Most t/b'd cars ive driven alothough quick needed the nuts revved off them to get em going, so you are effectively no better off than a turbo car anyhow.

if a t/b'd car is set up properly and has very carefully selected parts there's no reason why it cant produce good low rpm torque, it all comes down to selecting the right size throttle bodies, and having the right valve timing.

having smaller throttle bodies favours more low down power, and like wise carefully selecting the intake 'trumpets' can completely change the torque characteristics of the engine, personally i prefer smaller throttke bodies which give more power at lower rpm's but restrict high power rpm a little. also i prefer longer intake turmpets for the same reasons.

the next thing to take a very close look at is valve timing, the actuall lift of the camshaft has no real bearing on the performance, but of more importance is the duration, and the lobe displacement angles.

i dont like long duration cams because like you say they need to be revved hard to get any power and also they produce a lumpy idle. i woud go for something around 280 degress or the inlet and around 274 degrees on the exhaust, having.

the lobe displacement angle(or lobe centre angle) is normally around 112 degrees on a oe camshaft, many camshaft manufacturers just grind thier cams on the same angles as the factory but with longer durations, but if you have a custom grind done (like i do sometimes) i get them done on 108(or lower) centres, having a narrower angle give more a longer valve overlap period some therefore has more mixture pull-through inertia at low rpm which gives more power lower down in the power band.

also gains can be had by advancing or retarding the whole camshaft by means of a vernier pulley, generally speaking, advancing the cam gives more bottom end power and less top end..... in my experience you only ever gain anything by retarding a cam if your compression ratio is too high and you need to lose a bit of cylinder pressure at lower rpm to fend of detonation or pinking. it's better to start with alower compression ratio and have more ignition advance anyday, but cruise and light load economy will suffer from this......

just to sum up, like lummox says, it is an expensive bussiness tuning any engine and you also have to know a little bit about what you are doing....

i hope i havn'e gone into way too much detail here!!

edit: another thought after i pressed the button..... gear ratios play a mojor part in the performance too....

What a complete farce. chiping a chip please.

All any other tuning firm would do is replace whats there with there own version and if youv'e added any mods like filter ect they'll map it to that spec, just like AMD

So a complete waist of time.

What a complete farce. chiping a chip please.

All any other tuning firm would do is replace whats there with there own version and if youv'e added any mods like filter ect they'll map it to that spec, just like AMD

So a complete waist of time.

believe it or not, it is actually technically possible to remap a chip even if it's a re-chip, but like you say, they just wouldn't bother, they would just stick thier own chip in! but nowadays of course they dont even have to go anywhere near the chips or the ecu to remap the ecu. they just plug doofer into the OBD port and go some magical wisardry with a computer.

Change your air filter, get a wider air-intake and change your exhaust. You should easily see another 15 to 20 bhp, taking your car upto about 150bhp.

Milton Keynes wakes up to find himself actually in bed rather than in his home built tuning shop with gold floor and platinum walls, its a damn shame though as business was going well.

lol, hes allready got the wider intake etc. And I would doubt 150 bhp on a 2.0 from a remap filter and exhaust (coming from someone who worked at the said rolling road where the said 2.0 was remapped).

lol, hes allready got the wider intake etc. And I would doubt 150 bhp on a 2.0 from a remap filter and exhaust (coming from someone who worked at the said rolling road where the said 2.0 was remapped).

:iagree:

I already have the p160 intake, k&n filter and custom made backbox.

Change your air filter, get a wider air-intake and change your exhaust. You should easily see another 15 to 20 bhp, taking your car upto about 150bhp.

Don't forget the Brisky stickers - worth 5bhp each

Chris

I already have the p160 intake, k&n filter and custom made backbox.

Then your remap din't do much for you did it.

Then your remap din't do much for you did it.

Be lucky if those mods added 5-10 bhp max. So the rema has added a little. Around 10-15bhp is about all you will get from the remap on a 2.0 n/a. There just isnt that much you can play with.

ThirdTimeLuck, You've said before you had rolling road printouts. Could you post them up? Please...

Snoopie's basecally telling you he don't believe you got 135bhp out of a remap for an NA 2.0 Ben

:sofahide:

Snoopie's basecally telling you he don't believe you got 135bhp out of a remap for an NA 2.0 Ben

And what will the graph prove? Ross has already commented on AMD's rolling road accuracy

I suspect Snoopie is more interested in seeing the shape of the curve

Chris

Just the smoothness

I suspect Snoopie is more interested in seeing the shape of the curve

Precisely!

Sorry for the quality - I don't have a scanner so I had to take a photo of the bit of paper with my crappy camera.

Aww well it gives you an idea of just how smooth the power delivery is on the 2.0l 8v

bhp: Red line = b4 remap blue line = after remap

Torque: Red line = b4 remap blue line = after remap