Cold/Damp mornings :

Engine starts perfect, choke is on.

When the choke has turned off ( and the idle speed drops down to 750ish rpm ).

Braking hard ( from travelling at 30mph ), dipping clutch and revs drop down to 200 rpm, and sometimes (not always) the engine just dies.

Will start up again perfect, and the times when I've been able to put it back in gear before stopping, it has jump started fine.

A couple of times ( think it was just me ) the engine has 'struggled' while comming to a stop ( not in gear, clutch dipped ), and the headlights dim.

Have had the battery checked ( was my first thought )

Have had the alternator tested

Have had exhaust replaced, as was advised that the old one, which had a couple of small holes, could be causing the problem due to not enough 'back pressure ? '

Only other thing I've noticed, is when the engine dies, I can hear a relay click once from the fuse box area, but I'm guessing that this is due to the engine stopping.

Anyone got any ideas for me to check out ?

(My local garage don't have a Vag unit, but they have put it down to 'weak petrol', but even with the super-unleaded it still happens)

Do the signs & symptoms in this thread match yours?

Very close, but when I'm travelling along, it runs as smooth as a nut, and only seems to die when I release the acellerator, while braking and with the clutch dipped, and the engine slows from high revs to low revs.

Most of the time, the revometer just 'bounces' from 200rpm backup to 750rpm.

I'll have a check on the throttle body tomorrow, may have a bit of moisture in there I suppose, too dark tonight - unless there is a quick and dirty way with WD40.

Upto now, I haven't been able to reproduce the stalling without moving ( ie blipping the accellerator upto high revs and allowing it to drop as quickly as pos, while depressing the brake pedal, but no joy )

Have also found a post about a problem with a black relay (106), that mainly seems related to the octavia tdi's, but does tie in with the relay sound I've heard.

Geoff

Is the engine still cold when this happens?

Nope, temp sensor shows 1/2 way ( normal running temp )

And can be 5-10mins after starting the car when it happens.

Never happened when choke is in use.

Stumped I'm afraid.

All I can suggest is to get it to someone who does have the right diagnostic tools. Where are you? Quite a lot of independents do have them so at least you're not looking at

Correct, 1.6 injection, abs, power steering.

Ideally Stockport, as I can then drop it in on my way into work.

Thanks Again.

Geoff

Sorry, I know a few the other side of The Snake but I guess that's not on your way to work.

do you know if the ecu is the latest version they changed them around 1998/9 because idle speed was too low also worth checking the temp sensor although you gauge is reading correct the temp sensor has 4 pins 2 for gauge and 2 for ecu this can only be done if you use vag com/ 1552/5051 or there is a simple way grind off the two lugs on the temp sensor and turn terminal block around so they swap values hope this helps.

Wow I have the same problem wit my felicia GLX 1997did you find the fult in the engin if you did would you be so kind to e-mail my hvat you did or just post it hear

([email protected]) thank you

We had a 1.6 do the same, stalling a juctions mainly. The mechanics told the ecu that air con was fitted to increase the idle and we haven't seen the guy since. Nothing else

Perhaps that may help :rubchin:

Matt

Oiling up of the throttle body can cause these symptoms. The flap gets sticky and slow in operation. Its easy enough to remove and clean out with carb cleaner.

1600s were always difficult at low rpm untill the facelift when the ecu was improved.

wow that was fast,

ok Q: no.1 can I cleen the throttle body ousing WD40 or is thet hvat mad it bad to begin with ?

and Q: no.2 the re-program thingy will it affect lo end rev (I like it to be belov 800 rpm on idel) .

Q: no.3 "facelift when the ecu was improved" :\ when did the "facelift" occur.

Thank you agen very mutch

wow that was fast' date='

ok Q: no.1 can I cleen the throttle body ousing WD40 or is thet hvat mad it bad to begin with ?

and Q: no.2 the re-program thingy will it affect lo end rev (I like it to be belov 800 rpm on idel) .

Q: no.3 "facelift when the ecu was improved" :\ when did the "facelift" occur.

Thank you agen very mutch [/quote']

1. No idea, someone else might know :(

2. Yeah, the idle goes up to about 900 rpm, thats what all the facelift models are set at from the factory anyway.

3. About 1998

Hope this helps (if you explain to your local dealer i'm sure they'll set it for you)

Matt

I've just red-exed the throttle body ( local mechanic said it was at least worth a try ).

Will try it out on the way home tonight and let you know.

I've just red-exed the throttle body ( local mechanic said it was at least worth a try ).

Aperantly it is not worth the try. I du hope you got home after your little redx advanture I mean no bad stuff, but redx is su-pose to go in the gas at fillups right ? and my mass air sensor vas so dirty that I had to cleen it vith a cardurator cleener, and finaly the car is like new :magnify: let me know if the redxing woorked :handshke:

You can also use red-ex to clean the air inlet bits, it did work slightly, but didn't cure the problem.

I eventually found the same as you, a very liberal spraying of carb cleaner, and a good wiping out with an old rag, worked wonders.

But I did wonder if it actually worked, or if due to the fumes, I just 'flew home' under my own steam...

( It's also good for removing permanent pen ! )

And now, mine like yours, is like new.

What is interesting, is that the local skoda garage where I bought the car from, never did this on the major service, and didn't even think of it when I complained about the car acting like a bear with a sore head.

Oh well, at least we know for next time.......

Another problem which I found the solution for, when trying to hold the revs at say 2500 while in neutral, with no movement on the accellerator, the revs would 'dance' up and down slightly.

Then one moring on the way to work, I heard a relay clicking and my headlights flashing, so I poped open the fuse panel, and felt each relay in turn ( while trying not to crash )

Eventually found that the X Relay ( Load Balancing Relay ) - forth one on the top from the left, was faulty.

Quick trip to halfords, replaced it and now the revs stay solid where they should be, without dancing.

:blahblah: I

How did you manage to get one from Halfords? I have phoned up 3 different branches and all say they have no listing of any relays for felicias. And none of the vw or skoda dealers in the area have any either. Looks like i will have to wait until friday for it to arrive.

hi,

i am having similar with my 1.3 mpi.

it's not temperature sensitive, but it does seem to be clutch related (my idling rpm is pretty darn low) - always happens when hitting the clutch to brake from higher gears/higher speeds.

at the moment i'm getting round this by dropping sequentially through the gears... does anyone have a definitive answer to the cause? do you think getting my idling speed increased might resolve this?

many thanks!