Afternoon all.

Back in june I had my n/s rear door window (electric) clunk out, so had to replace the regulator.

However, the same door now will not open - trying to manually open it using the handle goes nowhere - the lock goes up, but will not stay up.

The central locking won't unlock the door either.

I'm stuck. I can't get into the interior trim because where the screws are, I can't take the door off the hinges because of the location of the grub screws.

Has anybody got any ideas?

Cheers!

Wolfsbane2k

Any ideas?

I'm looking at cutting the interior away, which means lots of

Any ideas?

I'm looking at cutting the interior away, which means lots of

Tom is there a lock barrel on the rear door?

If the deadlock is stuck try banging the door in area of the lock with your hand while locking and unlocking the door as this may coax it into moving.

There is also a thread on here showing cracked solder joints on the door locks.

i think that maybe your lock barrel is broke.... the base splits away from the cylinder and eventually all it will do is just spin round and round...... before you go tearing the door cards to pieces try to get a coat hanger or other similar implement and lever up the lock actuator inside the door.... you shouldget just enough room to get in there if you lever the window back and remove the rubber trim at the base of the window

Can you get at the offending fasteners if you remove the rear seat base from the car maybe? I know it'll take a while to do, but still better than having to buy a new door card that maybe won't be taded to match the rest of the trim.

Tom is there a lock barrel on the rear door?

unfortunately there isn't a lock barrel on the door - these are only on the front doors and the boot :(

I keep on trying it every day on the hope it will pop open, but had no luck so far :(

If the locking button returns to the locked position and does not open when you release the internal lever, that sounds like it's deadlocked.

Admittedly it was an old Montego, but I had a dicky mechanism on a front door that meant it was locked. However, by pulling on the interior release lever and yanking on the external handle together, we managed to unstick it. Long shot, but is that worth a try?

I recomend you to disconect the battery, and then beguin to yank your handle and the interior release handle.

Your locking button returns to the locked position becuase this is the way the deadlock work, the electric motor inside the door lock is pulling your button down............Thats why I recomend you to disconect the battery so the motor does not have power. Also, maybe instead of disconecting the battery you can remove the fuse thats work the door locks.

I am pretty sure thats your problem is a plastic part inside the door lock motor that is broke and does no allow it to disengage/release............Since I have open some of this door lock motors I am pretty sure that the yanking method can work.

Check this link too: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/door-lock-malfuntion-maybe-cure-your-problemo/63827/

Keep us updated

Good luck,

Isaac

Hi All

I have a similar problem with my car, rear passenger door will not open from the inside handle and the central locking wont unlock it. At first the central locking would lock the boot only now the door open light is on and it won’t lock any doors or set the alarm. The windows wouldn’t operate after I found the problem, now they are ok, is it the rear door lock? Or the central locking controller. Any clues please or where do I start. Can anyone tell me where the central locking control unit is located in the car?

Thanks

Hi

rear door now working after banging on it and pulling on the door handle, now the drivers door wont lock any ideas

Hi!

Just fixed the same problem on a 1999 Octavia SLX one week ago. Opened the rubber boot where the wiring runs from the body into the back door. Found that the loom wrapping tape was split and that one of the loom wires contained within it was completely cut through where the loom disappears into the back door. Two others were on the way to being cut.

Bridged the broken wire and the lock worked.

I then opened the back door and stripped it down. Found that the wiring loom wrapper was frayed and split all the way back to the main "in door" connector.

This was possibly caused because the wiring loom should have been fixed/ taped to a plastic bar in the door to keep it out of the way. It wasn't and over time the window glass could rub off of it as it was opened and closed.

I opend off the wiring loom at a connector where the wiring comes from the body of the car through the rubber boot, soldered in link wire to repair the broken wire and the two others that were on the way to breaking. Make sure to disconnect the loom at this connector before putting a soldering iron on the wires! Finally rewrapped the loom in tape.

I hope that this might help in your case.

Gar