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Bleeding brakes

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Righty. I got new rear discs on the car about 1 month ago and I think some air got into the system. (there is more effort involved in braking and the handbrake needs to be pulled up higher in order to work correctly) So, what do I need to bleed the system and how do I do it? (if thats the case)

(Only asking this as the local dealer won't touch non-OEM parts and the place I got the discs installed is about 200 miles away..)

Ta

Use a large syringe and draw the brake fluid through.

If you need one, drop me a line. I might have a few knocking about.

my vote goes for the pressure vessel type bleeder that screws onto the brake flud resovoir and forces out the air using compresser air

You really do need a pressurised bleeder. I have seen it mentioned that bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way with the pedal can cause damage to the seals somewhere.

They are about

What about trying another dealer ? Brakes are brakes, I'm sure there all bleed the same !

Just go to a local independant garage. I supplied 2L Halfords fluid and they changed the fluid for £15.

Considering the pressure kits are £16 ish - I thought that was a bargain.

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I'd rather get the kit and learn how to do it for future reference.

Any one have a how-to ?

It's pretty simple. The kit I have uses the air from a tyre (spare) to force the fluid through the system. The way I usually do it is to use a syringe to remove most of the fluid from the reservoir and then replace it with fresh fluid. Next I connect the bleeding kit to the top of the reservoir in place of the normal cap and fill the feeding tank with fresh brake fluid. Normally you work from the furthest corner away from the master cylinder (if the cylinder is on the passenger side bulkhead the bleed sequence would be O/S/R, N/S/R, O/S/F. N/S/F). It's just a case of attaching a short piece of clear tube to the bleed nipple with a jar at the other end of the tube and open the nipple. The fluid will be forced through by the pressure from the spare tyre. I'm not sure how long it should be left open but I normally let a fair amount of fluid through to be on the safe side (just make sure the reservoir never runs dry or you will cause yourself problems!). Once you have done that, tighten the nipple back up, remove tube, replace dust cap and move to the next wheel. One thing to note is that most of the kits I looked at recommended that the tyre used to pressurise the system should be reduced to around 14psi before starting. Sorry for a slightly crap description but it gives you an idea! The kit I have (eeze bleed) came with good instructions anyway and I would imagine others do too.

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