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felica 1.3 battery light dim at night then stalls

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This problem has arisen were at night the battery light on the dash comes on and eventually the car cuts out. i was advised to change the batt and the problem is still there pls pls pls can any one help me as my wife is not the patient type :mad: and i fear that i may have to call shelter lol

alternator gone wrong!

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the whole thing? voltage regulator as well hope not as alternator is 112 quid and thats with my old one for re-con oh my wife is gonna be angry!?! thank you for your help as i am tearin my hair out

Try the breakers, I've had several (for various cars) for

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yeah its a pain in the *** but i will have to do it at some point thanx for the advice

whereabouts are you from?? sombody local to you may be able to point you towards a breakers yard that has one

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iam from chorley in lancs (near the city preston) and have now (14 35) managed to get hold of one £20 from local scrappie thanx teflon for your advice now to fit the bu**er

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replaced voltage regulator battery seem s to be charging but car still cutting out oh well back to drawing board any suggestions guys cause iam tempted to torch the flippin thing and my nagging wife and make it look like an accident hhmmm insurance payout new car plastic wife problems over.

did you change the alternator brushes as well??

does it still cut out when you drive along the motorway??

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motorway? not me. it just cuts at random changed the exhaust a couple of weeks ago could it be back pressure in that as the car only seems to do it when iam approaching a junction or going uphill. The voltage regulator has the brushes inside the bottom section of it and they slot in and contact the armature when the retaining bolts for the volt reg are fitted yes i did change the brushes

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ok quick update alternator done voltage reg and brushes done still stalling so read some other threads seems that as well as my alternator being buggerd my lambda sensor is giving a reading of 0.01 ohms resisatncde between terminal 1 and 2 so this is shot aswell going back 2 scrappie tommorow to get me a sensor i will let you all know the outcome as soon as i have changed it over

ok quick update alternator done voltage reg and brushes done still stalling so read some other threads seems that as well as my alternator being buggerd my lambda sensor is giving a reading of 0.01 ohms resisatncde between terminal 1 and 2 so this is shot aswell going back 2 scrappie tommorow to get me a sensor i will let you all know the outcome as soon as i have changed it over

Terminal 1 and 2 might not be correct for the 1.3.

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tested all terminals in all possible configurations and thats the only one that gives a dead short all others go full scale so -big sigh- my dignosis is correct at the 22nd millionth try!?! thanx for your concern and i will let you know how its going or not.

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ok check this out walk six miles to the scrappie this morning with my daughter in toe to find that the lazy, selfish, son of a decaying freak that everone hates, and ,only his fleas will mourn him, doesnt open on saturday (he did when i wanted bits for my fiesta though) so rang every shop in chorley and was offered universal ones for around 40-50 quid and was advised that i would be back in no time for another new one the silver lining however was a little shop on the edge of town that has the exact one for 55quid or a universal one for 60?????? work that out yet i won't look a gift horse in the mouth and will happily pay 55 quid (he assured me it s a bosch one the exact same as mine) so hopful;ly might get more than 5or 6 miles away from my house this week only snag pick it up on monday what a shame i will have to sit at home on sunday and watch the mighty red batter chelski all over old trafford happy days

can i add just afew notes on lambda probes please??? sorry, not been online for a few days!!!

the lambda probe connector has 4 wires attached to it, 2 of them (black and brown on the 1.3) are connected to the lambda probe heating element which is there to heat up the tip of the probe to make the measurements more accurate, the other 2 wires are for the lambda signal (somehow they chose white and brown?? which is a bit confusing imho!), now the thing is, measureing the resistance across pins 3 + 4 wont tell you anything, becuase a lambda probe is a variable capacitor

to test it you need to do it with the probe still attached and with the engine running at normal temperature, it's really tircky becuase you need to do it with the probe still connected, you are looking for a voltage of between 0 an 1v accross pins 3 and 4, this voltage will naturally fluctuate

can i add just afew notes on lambda probes please??? sorry, not been online for a few days!!!

the lambda probe connector has 4 wires attached to it, 2 of them (black and brown on the 1.3) are connected to the lambda probe heating element which is there to heat up the tip of the probe to make the measurements more accurate, the other 2 wires are for the lambda signal (somehow they chose white and brown?? which is a bit confusing imho!), now the thing is, measureing the resistance across pins 3 + 4 wont tell you anything, becuase a lambda probe is a variable capacitor

to test it you need to do it with the probe still attached and with the engine running at normal temperature, it's really tircky becuase you need to do it with the probe still connected, you are looking for a voltage of between 0 an 1v accross pins 3 and 4, this voltage will naturally fluctuate

Yes...I did this test across 3 & 4 on mine using a digital voltmeter. As you say it is quite tricky and had to poke wires into the connector and to read the fluctuations. From memory I think mine was fluctuating between 0.1V and 0.7V and back again in about 1 second. From information googled, similar to the sites listed above, I came to the conclusion that this was OK but the mean value of 0.4V might be a bit low and the cycle time might be a bit slow.

Anyway....passed the MOT recently but comparing the printout of lambda readings given against last years might correlate this but not sure -

The lambda range given to pass is 0.97 to 1.03....last year mine was bang in the middle at 1.00, but this year was higher at 1.02 although the CO and HC were slightly lower, but still well within limits.

To be honest I don't really know if this means anything as there will be many other factors which may effect the readings, but would be interesting to compare with a new probe fitted should this become necessary.

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cheers teflon seems it isn't lambda probe causing stalling. after much hitting of things with a spanner my wife (the mechanic?) said it might be the ignition coil in an annoing woman like patronising voice and after abruptly dissmising her ludicrous suggestions and explaining to her that you can't just go fixing things willy nilly and shouted how many cars have you fixed and other alpha male type insults i had a brain wave, i should test the igntion coil! and it appers that the secondary windings have broken down if anyone knows if this could cause this problem please let me know as at this rate all my kids are gonna get for christmas is a broken alternator, brushes (for alternator), and a lambda sensor and possible ignition coil

the coil is a definate candidate for renewal in my opinion! it's bolted to the right hand inner wing on the 1.3 model, and on the left hand wing under the ecu on the 1.6 model.... iirc it uses the wing as a heatsink, so when it gets filthy or corroded underneath it cant transfer the heat hence the overheating....

one word of caution tho, if you feel the need to test the coil be very carefull not to electricute yourself, you can get nearly 50kV out of some of these little babies.... if you have a pacemaker (whoich sounds propable due to constant nagging syndrome:D ) then dont touch it at all, get a garage to do it

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yeah pacemaker might help with the tingling in my left hand acually!!

got one fitted it, went out, cut out wouldnt start, wouldnt start hours later, walked home put old one back on got home both ****ed oh well theres always suicde £50 for brand spanker from preston (10 miles from me)

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new coil fitted still cuts out after about 10-15 mins checking relays tommorow in daylight getting stressed now just wanna drive round long enough to listen to one cd then i'll be happy.

When it cuts out - how long before you can start it again?

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it usuallly starts again within 10-15mins but cuts out sooner if you drive it again sorry not been online for a while had loads of college stuff to catch up with

it usuallly starts again within 10-15mins but cuts out sooner if you drive it again sorry not been online for a while had loads of college stuff to catch up with

It just sounded as though it may be cutting out when the engine reached a certain temperature, and starting again once cooled down - which may point towards a faulty coolant temperature sensor (CTS).

I doubt this would explain the battery light coming on though.

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It just sounded as though it may be cutting out when the engine reached a certain temperature, and starting again once cooled down - which may point towards a faulty coolant temperature sensor (CTS).

I doubt this would explain the battery light coming on though.

sorry ther have been lots of problems and one by one they have all been cured the batt light was alternator:thumbdwn: and lights dimming was voltage regulator.:mad: however the car still cuts out today it did it twice and i was able to bump start it the first time less than 5 mins after then later at the shop were it took a while to start (although it didnt cut out this time) i turned the engine off and after my wife being in the shop for 10-15mins the bloody thing wont start i asked the manager if i could leave it there as i had my kids in the car and they wanted feeding so i pushed it onto the car park thought id give it one last chance and the **** turned over :confused:

do you know how to test the CTS and could the voltage reg have damaged this aswell as it buggerd my batt but it didn't blow it up:thumbup: as i heard that it is very common for it to do that and it tends to get acid all over the ecu and thus destroying that aswell

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:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup::) :) :) :) :):D:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl::thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

i fought it on the roundabouts i fought it at mcdonalds i fought it at work and various parts of the a6 but victory is mine yes yes no need for tears anymore my wife smiled as the clock struck six as i had been driving for half an hour without so much as a hiccup but what caused this problem i hear you cry well gather round and i wil tell thee. if your car cuts out please to god clean the hall sensor. mine was as dirty as micheal jackson in toy's 'r' us with more swarf than a legless fitters spare boot. Thank you one and all for your advice and concern. no more walking to work no more walking to the shop. yes yes yes. any way gotta go gonna drive to my next door neighbours, why, because i can hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha:D

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