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Nutcase drivers side window

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Hi all,

Was sticking my arm out the open window today to get a ticket from a carpark when the window closed itself giving me a bit of a fright. Now it just seems to be losing the plot. It will go down on it's own or close on its own and when fully open I can't close it using the button until a couple of minutes later(the convenience open/close works fine) . Also it sometimes won't allow me to open/close any other window in the car but if I try using the windows own button it's fine. For a while before hand the opening and closing of the offending window was quite squeeky and I had intended to lubricate but never got around to it so I'm wondering if this may be part of the problem, it's getting stuck in places.

Also, as the other windows can be open and closed with their individual switches I'm wondering if the problem is with the liltle control panel thingy ?

I've done a search and found similar problems but no solutions !

Can anyone help, I only splashed out on getting the timing belt changed yesterday so it's very annoying when another problem comes along.

Sounds like the window controller needs resetting. There are various 'proper' ways of doing this, but the best way I've found is to remove the appropriate fuse in the fuse panel for ten seconds or so, replace it, and "Hey presto!", the windows should be back to normal. Sometimes you need to reset the one-touch facility on the driver's switches, which IIRC you do by raising the window to the top, and holding the switch up for a further couple of seconds (it's in the manual if it's not that, anyway...)

HTH

  • Author

Thanks ap0gee. The more I think of this the more I'm begining (hoping) it's something as simple as this. As I said, it's only seems the be the drivers side aciting strange like this but intermittingly the others stop working for a bit. It could have got confused if the battery was diconnected when the timing belt etc were being changed yesterday.

My passenger side window did this just before the central convenience unit decided to lose the plot. Window is now behaving itself, but drivers door lock no longer locks/ unlocks with the rest of the doors. Have you noticed any problems with the central locking? Is the LED on the drivers door on full time when the car is being driven?

If you do notice the locking behaving funny, you may have a similar problem to mine. Dealer is waiting on delivery of new wiring loom & central convenience unit.

  • Author

Central locking is fine, haven't noticed the LED being on all the time but the better half has had the car all week so I haven't really had the car to notice if this is the case.

That's my fear, the central convenience unit on its way out. How much were you quoted for the new loom and unit, and then to have it fitted ?

  • Author
Sounds like the window controller needs resetting. There are various 'proper' ways of doing this, but the best way I've found is to remove the appropriate fuse in the fuse panel for ten seconds

Do you know what fuse it is ? I've just had a look in the manual and while there's no specific fuse for electric windows there are 2 fuses labelled "S contact" which signify "electrical components which can be operated after switching ignition off provided the key is not withdrawn", is it one of these ?

Hi Folks,

I am have the same problem with my n/s front window and also my rear o/s window.The led on the door is on all the time.I am going to try your reset method and I 'll let you know how I get on.

Do you know what fuse it is ? I've just had a look in the manual and while there's no specific fuse for electric windows there are 2 fuses labelled "S contact" which signify "electrical components which can be operated after switching ignition off provided the key is not withdrawn", is it one of these ?

Do you have an Octavia? I have a Fabia, and it sounds like your fuse allocations are completely different! Best bet if the manual is no help is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for a few moments in lieu of finding the right fuse. It does the same thing, but you might have to do stuff like reset the security on the stereo...

i have noticed the same problem on my 02 vrs last couple of weeks, the LED is stopping on permanently, the driver door lock is doing its own thing, sometimes not locking sometimes not unlocking, the passenger side window is no longer working from the drivers controls but fine on the passenger door switch, also found the courtesy light in the drivers door pocket is stopping on permanently causing the battery to die after a few days of standing, I think i could safely assume that this central convenience thing is the problem on mine? can anybody explain what this thing does, and why i would need a loom to go with it, more to the point how much does all this lot cost to replace, or is there an easy fix?

  • Author

Just an update, it's all behaving fairly erratcially now, doing my bloody head in !

Saturday morning everything was fine but today none of the switches on the drivers door are working yet the window switches work fine on all the other doors. Worse again, tried my leccy mirrors and the passenger side can be adjusted fine but the drivers side one won't. Was having a bad morning and came close to driving the car off the nearest bridge.

Normally wouldn't be too ****ed but it's a real pain after only splashing out for the timing belt etc the previous day. The car has to go back to the dealer anyway for something else so I'll get it checked then.

Anyone know how to remove the switch panel from the door ? I tried but didn't do too well. The door and interior panel were replaced just before Christmas because of a crash so I'm hoping the switch union wasn't put back in firmly and the connections have come loose. It's preferable than getting a new convenience unit.

Just an update, it's all behaving fairly erratcially now, doing my bloody head in !

Saturday morning everything was fine but today none of the switches on the drivers door are working yet the window switches work fine on all the other doors. Worse again, tried my leccy mirrors and the passenger side can be adjusted fine but the drivers side one won't. Was having a bad morning and came close to driving the car off the nearest bridge.

Normally wouldn't be too ****ed but it's a real pain after only splashing out for the timing belt etc the previous day. The car has to go back to the dealer anyway for something else so I'll get it checked then.

Anyone know how to remove the switch panel from the door ? I tried but didn't do too well. The door and interior panel were replaced just before Christmas because of a crash so I'm hoping the switch union wasn't put back in firmly and the connections have come loose. It's preferable than getting a new convenience unit.

I feel your pain. I don't know what the situation is with your warranty, but mine is out of date (only 2 years in Ireland). Dealer has put my case to Skoda and they are supplying the parts FOC, but I have to pay the labour element.

I don't know why the loom has to be replaced, but from what the dealer said the terminals/ connections both get corroded. I'm not sure about the cost of the parts, but I understand it is around

  • Author

I'm well out of warranty and good will territory at this stage, the car is a 01 so approaching its 6th birthday this year. It's going to the dealers next week to be checked out and I'm really hoping it's just a bad conection somewhere in the drivers door. Spoke to a Skoda technician last week and he reckons it might not be the convenience unit as he says that alot more than just the windows would stop working so here's hoping.

Convenience unit could be getting wet, and going nuts?

Anyone know how to remove the switch panel from the door ? I tried but didn't do too well. The door and interior panel were replaced just before Christmas because of a crash so I'm hoping the switch union wasn't put back in firmly and the connections have come loose. It's preferable than getting a new convenience unit.

Sticking my neck out a bit here, but if the switches are in the armrest like on the Fabia, then all you need to do is unclip the section of the armrest that holds the switches (search on here, perhaps under something like soundproofing), and once that's off, the switches just clip into the underside...

HTH

  • Author

Cheers Ap0gee, removed the fuse for a bit yesterday, it's the same one for the central locking but no joy there. I did a search a found out how to remove the switches so I might try that later.

It wasn't working this morning but 20 minutes later it was fine :confused: but I'm getting used to the fact that I may have to live with it for a while.

cheezemonkhai, where is the unit anyway ? Is it in the door or under the bonnet somewhere ?

Edit, never mind, did a search and found out it's definately in the drivers door. There's the possibility that when the door and interior trim was replaced about a month back something wasn't connected or sealed firmly resulting in water ingress or a loose connection. Herself, who was driving the car at the time of the crash, told me last night that when she did get the smack the drivers window did something similar but has been perfect up until now. I guess I'll just have to wait until the unit is checked out.

Thanks for all your help.

I have known the main wire in the door loom to chafe through at the bottom where it is cable tied to the door metal work, with some interesting intermittent window working faults - worth a check and a cheap fix if you repair it yourself.

if you need a new unit, might be able to tack it onto the claim somehow if you are lucky, failure to fix it etc

  • Author
I have known the main wire in the door loom to chafe through at the bottom where it is cable tied to the door metal work, with some interesting intermittent window working faults - worth a check and a cheap fix if you repair it yourself.

Is this the loom going from the door to the car itself inside the rubber tube ?

cheezemonkhai - Was thinking of that myself only the insurer rang me last week to close the claim so it might be too late but if there is damage as a result of this I'll be back onto the crash repair company who have been excellent might I add up until now.

  • Author

Well fordfan get's the prize !

I did have a look at the loom on Friday and didn't notice anything obvious but I had a look again a while ago. Again, nothing obvious like chaffed wires etc but there was a bit of play on the loom so I jiggled it about a bit and shoved it back into the door. Tried everything again and it's all working now. Tested it a few times to ensure it's not just one of its once off behaviours but everything remained working and remained so after a quick spin.

I'll keep an eye on it for a few days but hopefully it will remain ok, if not at least (fingers crossed) I know it's a wiring problem in the loom/door.

Thanks again everyone.

Hi folks = I'm cross posting this message: I believethere is a design problem with the drivers door wiring loom which is susceptible to moisture damage. Ive seen lots of evidence to this problem on the net. Customers have paid up to UK

If your getting odd convienance issues with an Octavia 1 check your rear screen wash is working properly, should be a fair bit of water coming out on the back screen.

  • 2 weeks later...

a big thanks goes out to all of you who pointed me in the right direction when my electrics got the gremlins, finally i now have control of all my windows and locks and all the interior lights come on at the right time...you guys were completely right about the corrosion in the drivers door loom, i had the door in bits today and when i unplugged the CCU i found not only a corroded plug and socket but enough trapped water to keep a small fish.

Less than an hour from start to finish, I've done away with the ridiculous plug and socket method, and hard soldered all those fiddly wires straight onto what was left of the pins, a generous helping of silicone sealant and some dessicant bags later, and i now have a working car and its not cost me a penny.

My advice? as long as you are prepared to accept the consequences if it all goes wrong and you wire the thing backwards, or reap the hundreds of pounds savings if it all goes well, its definitely worth a try....

Try the connector to the door window motor, water in it causes all sorts of problems

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