Hi im really want to talk to people who have had a new clutch fitted as a result of having their Fabia remapped. I want to know what make of clutch you had, if it was a uprated 1 or just a standard 1 and who fitted it and if possible how much.

You can answer on here or pm me and ill ring you.

Many thanks

Fireman

You have 2 options. A Sachs organice clutch with sachs uprated pressure plate will take upto 330lbft. Looking at £600-£800 fitted.

Or a Helix clutch with single mass flywheel. Cost is around £1200 fitted.

Might be a bit of a silly point, and if it is please tell me, but can the standard dual mass flywheel not be welded up solid?

mines only got a conservative remap in it and speaking to the chap that did it and has done loads the clutch shouldnt be slipping. Im thinking mine is a weak pressure plate and that should i go for a new standard clutch or have it uprated as a matter or course!!!

I have a kevlar 400 lb/ft clutch which is nice. oem flywheel was machined down to match it perfectly, and it's brilliant. Holding strength nicely and the flywheel has been good too. Pretty sure the clutch will outlive my bottom end.

It came from JBS but unsure if they do them. It was fitted before my pd130 went in my car. Easy to split the block & box whilst it's sat on the floor.

You have 2 options. A Sachs organice clutch with sachs uprated pressure plate will take upto 330lbft. Looking at

Indeed - having the car in limp mode for the first 3 weeks of it's running post-conversion, was a huge benfit for running the clutch in. I could floor it as much as I liked and it never gave me more than about 60bhp. Probably the best intro for the clutch I reckon.

edit: How's the nos/propane/gauges in your car?

edit: How's the nos/propane/gauges in your car?

Just about to go out and try and find what YOU broke. The curse of Jason "The dark destroyer" devonutopia strikes again. Hopefully just a fuse or lead disconnected.

Just about to go out and try and find what YOU broke. The curse of Jason "The dark destroyer" devonutopia strikes again. Hopefully just a fuse or lead disconnected.

I just sit in cars and they fall to bits. Add insult to injury, I got home and switched the kitchen light on BANG! blew the main fuse on the mainboard, for the lighting in the whole house. I was waiting for that third thing to go wrong.... Never came luckily.

interesting reading boys thank you so far for the info..... now stop hijacking my post lol behave

interesting reading boys thank you so far for the info..... now stop hijacking my post lol behave

Kevlar clutch is awesome. Back on topic.

I'm confused Jase - you have the kevlar clutch and the DMF? or is it a single mass steel flywheel?

(I thought that the disadvantages of either were that the DMF limited the torque haandling capability and the single mass allows the driveshaft to rattle when in neutral with the clutch not engaged.......)

I mean a DMF would 'let go' well before a kevlar clucth would, right?

confused (my usual state)

Bas

Well, whatever was done to my DMF at the same time as the clutch was done, must have ebeen deliberate to preserve it / help it. It's been fine for me.

Well, whatever was done to my DMF at the same time as the clutch was done, must have ebeen deliberate to preserve it / help it. It's been fine for me.

What they did was skim your old flywheel to give it a new clean face. It is still a DMF and it hasn`t been lightened, well maybe a gram or two.

@ Basil What do you mean by the DMF "letting go" before the Kevlar clutch ?

Soooo, if my DMF is not really butchered in any way - there's nothing stopping me fitting a single mass flywheel in there then? I understand they're 5kg lighter than the oem dmf, and have better performance? Thinking back to your old Cupra here.

Sorry, I admit ignorance about the DMF - I thought that it had springs inside it that would get overloaded by too much torque, leading to failure.

Allard specifically mention the need for a steel SMF when going with their phase 4 - VT5 + uprated injectors.

Given that SMF lets you rev faster as pointed out by Jase, as it's lighter and the only negative is that it rattles in neutral with the clutch out surely this is the choice when going full-out with power mods?

Another question - I read that the Kevlar clutch was for all-out racing not daily use? Why so?

Thanks for any input

Cheers

Bas

So i take it then that a standard clutch should be able to handle a 165bhp (and what ever torque that would give) remap without any problems. If yes then i can just change the clutch for a new LUK clutch as i assume i have a weak pressure plate and its notthe remap causing the clutch slip?

It is the torque that gets to the clutch & DMF if too high.

If you go beyond the torque limit, you'll get slip. Power wise you can be absolutely fine - higher revs for the power so you can push up much higher than 165 (if wanted). Avoid massive torque spikes in the map and drive smoothly, then you'll get great performance and keep your clutch in one piece

yep i think it is the torque thats doing it cos if i dont plant it in 3rd it does'nt have the mini slip at about 2800 to 3300. I have no idea how much torque its really giving but the chap said its about 380...is that lbs feet or metric and if thats correct is that figure way beyond the standard clutch can handle? Mind you hes done loads of these remaps and im the only 1 with clutch slip that he knows of. He a genuine nice bloke and ive no reason to disbelieve him 1 bit. What you think chaps

It will be 380Nm, as 380ft/lb is very high for just a remap.

I think the standard clutch is rated to 400Nm.

well thats good news in 1 form for me then, cos it confirms what ive been told by the remapper and i suspect that my clutch is faulty and that if i bung a standard LUK clutch back, in the remap wont kill it......made my day mate

Another question - I read that the Kevlar clutch was for all-out racing not daily use? Why so?

Thanks for any input

Cheers

Bas

The Kevlar clutch isn't an all out race clutch. It's an uprated clutch with stock like drivability & good wear characteristics.

An all out race clutch would be something like a paddle clutch which would be very harsh but would handle a shed load more torque.

well thats good news in 1 form for me then, cos it confirms what ive been told by the remapper and i suspect that my clutch is faulty and that if i bung a standard LUK clutch back, in the remap wont kill it......made my day mate

It depends on how many miles are on the clutch. All things wear with constant use.

well the clutch has done 25k in total but i suspected it maybe very very slightly slipping before the remap and now it does at peek torque

Well these kevlar things sound like a super bit of kit, I know what I'll put in mine now