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temperature gauge questions...


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If I am correct the part number you need is 6U0 919 501 B which is described as a temperature sender, and the ring for it is N 903 168 02, or for the whole thermostat housing, thermostat and sender 047 121 111 A for a vehicle without air con.

Thanks, it was the part 6U0 919 501 B but it looks different to my old temp sensor. My old one had the same connector but a different sensor end - still fits though. I didn't realise that a replacement part could look different.

What's with resetting your ECU? How long do I have to disconnect the battery for to be effective?

Matt

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My Felly 1.6 "Mayonnaised" for a few weeks after it overheated.

I took the filler cap off, gave it a full clean and even put a tissue in there to get as much of the creamy stuff out as I could.

It has not surfaced again.

Temp gauges will go up in stop/start traffic. Mine sits halfway in town driving but drops on the motorway to sit at "normal" between cold and halfway.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi and welcome clairamay, is the connector to the temperature sender on top correctly seated and clean? Try re-seating it a couple of times. Also try disconnecting the battery overnight to re-set the ECU.

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The connector on top of the thermostat. The radiator one simply switches the fan on and off so will not be the cause of the problem. AFAIK if it's the one spade connector (1.3 SPI) this simply controls the instrument panel temp gauge, if it's got more connectors one of these goes to the ECU and in turn the ECU does something with the varying temperature data I think, which *might* explain the revs changing.

Also, if you haven't yet done so, it may be worth running the engine with the coolant cap off till the fan cuts in (keep away from the opening, and you may wish to drape a cloth over), this should hopefully help remove any locked air in the system.

It's worth a try anyway. Hopefully someone who knows all the intricacies of the car in more detail than I do will reply if they think it's something else.

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:iagree: Temperature sender connection is more than likely the culprit (the ones on the thermostat housing that you changed).

An air-lock, though unlikely, could be the problem. If there is no water/coolant by the thermostat, it would give you those symptoms too. As anewman says, run the engine on tickover for a few minutes with the filler cap off and top it up if it needs it - NOT cold water if the engine is hot though!

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

After following these forums for a while now I have finally decided to register and here be my first post :)

After taking my trusty Felly to a local Skoda dealer I was advised that ECU was set at the default "fail-safe" setting due to engine thermometer failure. Haynes manual says that I should have a warning light on? Yet I don't. Could it be something else then, or have I misread?

My temp gauge reads normal.

Am I correct in thinking that this is the correct replacement part for the engine thermometer from Joyrily for a 1.3 MPi R/97.

Skoda Felicia 1.3 Mpi Thermostat-MK2 VERSION !!!! -

Edited by PJH
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PJH, do you get EMS warning lights on switch on? If not, then I think a bulb has failed.

Also, the EMS temperature feed comes from a different sensor to the gauge feed.

And finally, yes you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for several hours, but make sure you have the radio security code first!

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Cheers for the info Ken.

Would that Joyrily part be correct then?

I will check the EMS light in the meantime. If it has failed, it would just be a simple replacement of the bulb in the cluster, right?

Thanks again.

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No problems.

I don't have a Felly; I'm just a good amateur mechanic with an interest in older cars.

Yes, if the bulb's failed it's a simple replacement (well once you get in at it).

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