hOW DO YOU DO IT???? CANT FIND HANES MANUAL TO LOOK THIS ONE UP................................HELP!!!

Disconnect the battery negative lead and secure it of the way.

Unclip the plastic cover over the battery positive lead then disconnect the lead and secure it out of the way.

Undo and remove the 2 bolts holding the clamp plate then remove that plate.

Undo and remove the strut brace.

If your car is petrol-engined, lift the canister purge solenoid valve off its mounting peg and try and move it out of the way.

Tilt the battery forward and lift out.

That said this is best done with help since the battery is heavy, is a b****r to get out, and anything and everything in the vicinity will get in the way.

PS: I've done it recently and couldn't believe how long it took!

put the kettle on, this could take some time.

Disconnect the battery negative lead and secure it of the way.

Unclip the plastic cover over the battery positive lead then disconnect the lead and secure it out of the way.

Undo and remove the 2 bolts holding the clamp plate then remove that plate.

Undo and remove the strut brace.

If your car is petrol-engined, lift the canister purge solenoid valve off its mounting peg and try and move it out of the way.

Tilt the battery forward and lift out.

That said this is best done with help since the battery is heavy, is a b****r to get out, and anything and everything in the vicinity will get in the way.

PS: I've done it recently and couldn't believe how long it took!

I didn't have to move mine. I just twisted the battery and it slid out sideways with no problems. Mine went the other night. Dead cell!!! Just the job you need after a long day at work.

I didn't have to move mine. I just twisted the battery and it slid out sideways with no problems. Mine went the other night. Dead cell!!! Just the job you need after a long day at work.

I would guess it depends on battery size. Mine definitely needed space making to remove it.

If your car's got a strut brace fitted (that's a square, chunky metal bar running across the top of the engine) you'll need to take it out to get the battery out. There are two nuts at each end (13mm I think). It's not a big job and after that it's dead easy, but heavy.

I didn't have to remove the canister with mine, its relatively easy to slide and lift out once the strut brace and metal place are removed.

I have just spent an interesting evening trying to change the battery on my Felicia.

Thanks to the forum and the advice of removing the strut brace, I saved myself a further stressful few hours of working into the hours of darkness.

I never thought changing a battery could be so entertaining.

Many thanks

Sean

Try it on a New Beetle, feck me makes the Felicia look like a Sunday picnic.

I have just spent an interesting evening trying to change the battery on my Felicia.

Thanks to the forum and the advice of removing the strut brace, I saved myself a further stressful few hours of working into the hours of darkness.

I never thought changing a battery could be so entertaining.

Many thanks

Sean

Felicia's are like that...

Valve clearances take 20 mins, Rear spring platforms 1/2 an hr each side...

bonnet cabl, 3hrs including a passanger seat removal, battery 20 mins!

Everything that should be difficult is easy, and vice versa...

Why all this problem with removing a Feli battery?

I found it took a couple of minutes

Yes the strut brace does get in the way, but turning the battery sideways once undone, it's simply a matter of sliding it under the brace and manouvouring it past the pipes/cables.

I did have to unclip the pipes/cables where they were clipped together.

It was a standard Skoda battery.

Why should you have to remove a front seat to change a bonnet cable :confused:

Why should you have to remove a front seat to change a bonnet cable :confused:

So you can lie on the floor to see the bonnet release handle- easiest way when you'reof "portly Stature"...

No need to open a new thread for this reason that's why i will post here no matter in the existing is very old.

CarCareKiosk

Battery Replacement: 1997 Skoda Felicia LXi 1.3L 4 Cyl.

https://d2n97g4vasjwsk.cloudfront.net/1997%20Skoda%20Felicia%20LXi%201.3L%204%20Cyl.%2FBattery%20Replace.mp4

Things are easy when there is no alarm unit and not strut brace, if those 2 exist then it's a nightmare.

I face the same situation every time a change the battery, the strut brace makes me to bent the battery end pull it out forcing a bit the black plastic cover of the wind shield wipers (red arrow).

Another 2 issues are:

1) The battery is not very stable and has some mm tolerance of moving that's why i put a piece of adhesive hard felt for furniture (yellow arrow) long as the battery and in the spot that the battery ''sits'' on it's place and then i tighten the bolts.

Then the bracket holds the battery more steady.

2) After so many screw-unscrew efforts the thread starts showing signs of wear (blue arrow) so in the next time i had to make a small repair on this.