I posted this in the technical section by mistake so I apologise....

I live on the Isle of Man.

We have no Skoda dealers here.

A Haynes Manual has not been made for the Skoda Superb yet.

I have no access to part numbers.

My Superb Comfort 130 has an intermittent problem and loses power.

I have oil leaking out of the tell tales either side on the valve pictured.

If I operate the black actuator on the side of the valve a couple of times, I get my power back.

The problem is getting worse (more oil and more frequent power losses).

It looks like a non serviceable part (i.e. change the lot)

Can someone please identify the parts I need, to change out what I believe to be the boost pressure control valve (turbo waste gate - or advise the correct name).

I want to change the lot from the flexible hose (including clips)on the left to the fixed manifold on the right (looking at the engine from the drivers side of the engine bay), please include small pipe clips, any joints or gaskets, nuts if they're one time lock nuts etc.

Any help very very much appreciated

See attached pictures.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/CIMG1721.jpg

http://http://i136.photobucket.com/a...s/CIMG1722.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...s/CIMG1723.jpg

I'm keeping my fingers crossed some of you enthusiasts can list them easily.

Thanks

Bill

Thats the EGR valve.

I would be very suprised if that was the root of the intermittant loss of power. Any fault codes to go on? Sounds more like a MAF fault or maybe one of the vacuum pipes on the bulkhead that supply the N75.

Thanks for getting straight back Lummox.

I have no references so could you please explain EGR valve?

The intermittent loss of power is like that valve is sticking in one position.

Moving the black actuator (and hence the valve inside) full travel a couple of times (feels like its against a spring) brings my power right back until next time it "sticks" (or fails to operate).

I have no fault codes to go on.

Can you explain the MAF and the N75 (vacuum pipes are working on the black actuator if that's the N75)

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q178/Revopops/CIMG1722.jpg

That second link doesn't work (too many http's)...hopefully this one should

EGR = exhaust gas recirculation

MAF = ?

T75 = ?

Anybody.

MAF is the Air Mass Meter

At the side of the air box

If you try the search button on them parts it will be described better , maybe even pics

Sarah

The EGR might be pretty clogged up by the looks of it as might the vanes on the turbo.

Is it a high miler or lots of short journey's?

The black actuator visible nearest the camera in your pictures is for the anti-shudder valve and assists in stopping the engine cleanly. It should operate immediately the engine is shut off, remain closed for about 2 secs then return to the open (normal) position. It's not functionally connected with the EGR valve in any way. The EGR actuator is the silver "dome" visible right on the top of the engine through the hole in the cover.

From the visible amount of soot in your pictures, it looks as though the EGR valve is possibly leaking exhaust or not functioning properly. I would suggest having a good look at it and cleaning it out and freeing it up.

The Haynes manual No 4279 which covers the B5.5 Passat gives quite a bit of useful information.

rotodiesel.

Reading your post carefully again, I think you may have two problems, one of which could be proved by a simple test. If the anti shudder valve is failing to return or being actuated when not required, there will be a severe power loss or engine stop.

As an experiment, disconnect the vacuum line to the anti shudder valve black actuator and plug the end. The engine should operate normally, but will not stop very cleanly, ie. it will shudder to a halt. If this cures the power loss, you then have to ascertain whether this valve is sticking or is being actuated incorrectly.

The other prblem is the black deposit around the EGR. This could either be soot from an exaust leak or oil carried in via the inlet from the engine breather system. A careful examination should isolate the cause.

rotodiesel.

Thanks for your answers everyone it's helping me out a lot as I have no information to go on at present. Keep the ideas flowing.

Thanks for describing MAF Sarah, I'll see what I can dig up now.

It's 50,000 miles and lots of short journeys Stu (12.5 miles to work and 12.5 back with the odd 60 miles thrown in if we go to the top of the Island at the weekend).

Roto first post:

The anti shudder valve works good, move this over with the engine running and it stops instantly. Turn the ignition off and the engine stops dead so I guess we can rule that one out.

Is the Passat the same EGR as the Superb in which case I will get Haynes 4279 just to give me something to look at (I've got nothing), alternatively do you know of any websites where there are any exploded drawings I can look at?

Roto second post:

I definately think it is the EGR actuator causing the problem (it's oil coming out of the tell tales either side of the EGR actuator rather than soot by the way- it's quite wet too).

I have normal power and then suddenly there's nothing........ the engine struggles to move the car (2nd gear, full throttle up a 1 in 8 and lucky if it does 35mph and you all know that's not normal)

I stop the car, give the (what I now know to be) the anti shudder atuator a couple of full travel movements, get in the car and the power is back to normal (probably due to stopping the car more than wiggling the anti shudder actuator).

New question:

Excessive oil carried in via the engine breather system is that the black pipe on the top of the EGR actuator? and if the diaphragm on the actuator was split (as I suspect) would that let oil get to the other side and drain out of the tell tales and cause erratic operation of the EGR valve itself?

Last question:

Is the EGR actuator serviceable (it looks like a sealed unit, but it may be possible to buy just that, rather than the whole valve) or do I have to change the whole EGR valve?

I'll wait for your further input before pulling things to bits but when I get some time, I'll take the EGR out of the system and have a look at the state of the internals.

If that looks o.k. then I'll try and do something about the actuator (be it replace an actuator by itself if possible) or change the whole EGR if need be to hopefully permanently cure the erratic operation.

Thanks again for your help everyone, it's appreciated.

Bill, I'll try to deal with the points you raise. The Haynes manual is fully relevant to the Superb in all significant details. Your engine looks like an AWX (check paper label on cambelt cover) - the Haynes manual I mentioned covers this engine.

Glad the anti-shudder valve is OK but I'm a little surprised that operating this temporarily "fixes" your problem - maybe you just disturb the EGR when you do this. You could confirm this for all time by blocking off the vac supply to the anti-shudder as described earlier.

The engine breather is not where you think it is. There is a large "elephant trunk" running from the air cleaner box to the turbocharger's compressor inlet. Teed into this is a 1/2" bore hose from the cam cover - this is the breather. Oil is carried into the inlet tract via this breather and coats the whole lot - including the intercooler. You may see the lower intercooler pipe dripping oil at the joint - this is normal for this engine. The thin pipe connected to the EGR "dome" is the vac pipe which actuates the EGR.

I doubt whether the EGR actuator diaphragm is split, but a quick suck on the stub via a piece of hose would test this. The EGR actuator is not a serviceable part. My thoughts are that your EGR is sooted up and is sticking - not helped by your driving regime (I appreciate you live on a small island!). I would recommend dismantling this and cleaning it out after checking the actuator in-situ by sucking. If you Google VW TDiClub Forums you will find quite a lot of useful information, including a full EGRvalve/inlet manifold cleaning procedure with pictures. Due to the breather, these parts really do get gunked up.

All VW B5.5 TDi diesel info is relevant to your car, but remember that the PD diesels were introduced into the States much later ('04 I think) than in Europe so you need to be sure which engine is being described on American websites.

Let us know how you get on.

rotodiesel.

Thanks Rotodiesel.

Next stop somewhere that sells that manual....

I think it is more me stopping the engine and allowing whatever is sticking to reset more than the anti shudder actuator doing anything.

From what you mention, I take it it's not a five minute job cleaning the inlet tract.

The reason I was thinking the EGR actuator diapragm was split is the oil leaking from the tell tales on both sides of the EGR, (which is the opposite side to the (I now know vacuum) hose and where I thought oil would be coming from).

I'm pretty sure it is an AWX but will check before doing anything to be sure.

If I check the EGR out in situ by sucking, what changes should I be listening out for (I presume I test with the engine running)?

Also at present my intermittent fault isn't showing (don't you just love those kind) and I have full power, so would I necessarily find out if the EGR is sticking?

I have to work off Island for a couple of days so won't be able to respond in here for a bit - I'm not ignoring anyone.

We don't have a Skoda dealer here on the island any more and due to the visible oil from the tell tales, the (ex dealer) mechanic immediately said turbocharger seals, new turbocharger required, cost you about

OK I've done a test on the EGR actuator fitted to the AWX engine on my car. I would not recommend actuating the EGR with the engine running as this could generate a fault code. Remove (push off with a screwdriver) the rubber vac pipe fron the EGR dome (no dismantling whatever required) and fit a length of tubing. Suck hard, and you will be aware of a strong spring behind the diaphragm which takes quite a bit of suction to compress it. Put your tongue over the end of the pipe and check that the vacuum you have generated is maintained for a few seconds - this will test the diaphragm for splits. Place your ear next to the EGR valve and release the vacuum with your tongue. You should hear the valve snap shut with a metallic click. These tests will show that the valve is free to move and that the actuator is OK.

I would be very reluctant indeed to suspect the turbocharger at this stage, although the variable vane actuation system is prone to sticking on these Garrett units. The test for this is the same: find the actuator (by the turbocharger, visible from above with the vac pipe connection on top), connect a small bore tube in place of the existing vac pipe (smaller size than the EGR vac tube) and suck as before. This time, feel with your fingers below the valve and check that the actuator rod moves about 1" when you do this.

If the EGR is stuck open, the engine will have difficulty building up boost pressure. If the VNT actuator is stuck, the engine could overboost placing it in "limp home" mode. This will normally result in a "check engine light".

Finally there is the dreaded MAF. The easy check for this is to disconnect it - an engine with a faulty MAF sensor will generally run better with it disconnected. The symptoms you describe don't fit usual MAF "behaviour" and the oil leakage around the EGR is unusual - presumably it's leaking out of the anti-shudder butterfly shaft bushings. At the moment, my money is on a sticky EGR valve - the Haynes book describes its removal (but not cleaning) pretty well on pages 4C.3 and 4C.4. There is also a pretty useful "vac plumbing" diagram on 4C.4 - you may have a faulty EGR control valve (item 10).

Has your engine ever been overfilled with oil? These engines don't like this (dealers PLEASE note).

rotodiesel.

You say that it is intermittent, is there any pattern to it? If power is restored after turning the ignition off and then on, my money would be on a sticking VNT mechanism. In my experience it doesn't bring the engine light on, but it does usually leave the fault code 'boost pressure regulating limit surpassed'. The trained ear can pick this up just by listening to the engine rev.

Did you ever find a fix for this? Just interested!

Did you ever find a fix for this? Just interested!

I would also be interested in an update on this....

Hi Folks,

Sorry for not being in here more often and updating you, it's been a crazy year.

I haven't actually done anything more to the car, but think it may be a sticking EGR.

If I switch the engine off and switch it on again the power is back to normal.

June during the TT was the last time it happened (three times the same day), it was just worrying at the time before I had an idea what to do to get her going again.

I can live with it for now but if it gets worse I will have to strip and clean things methinks.

Thanks for the advice guys, I still have this forum in my favourites.

Oh, and a happy new year to you all.

Pops

The oil is typical for the mileage, this is normal btw, all cars require them cleaning at some time, not sure if it is causing the fault though even if it is faulty, can you hear a knock knock knock noise coming from it? easy way to tell is to take the rear pipe off of it and the noice if it's there will stop, this is a split diaphram btw if it is evident, the maf meter is a more likely culprit as when they go they do kill engine performance but generally throw a dash light on as well, a couple of other small self fix things you could try is to service the derv filter and run some injector treatment through it, the best way is to put the treatment in the filter direct and top up the other half with derv, this gives max cleaning power, and flush the engine oil incase a sludge buildup is causing something not to function, but whatever you do before you go spending large, have a new oil,derv and air filter in place, hth.

The oil is typical for the mileage, this is normal btw, all cars require them cleaning at some time, not sure if it is causing the fault though even if it is faulty, can you hear a knock knock knock noise coming from it? easy way to tell is to take the rear pipe off of it and the noice if it's there will stop, this is a split diaphram btw if it is evident, the maf meter is a more likely culprit as when they go they do kill engine performance but generally throw a dash light on as well, a couple of other small self fix things you could try is to service the derv filter and run some injector treatment through it, the best way is to put the treatment in the filter direct and top up the other half with derv, this gives max cleaning power, and flush the engine oil incase a sludge buildup is causing something not to function, but whatever you do before you go spending large, have a new oil,derv and air filter in place, hth.

I have since taken mine to my local mechanic who also said the oil leaking is normal for a car with high mileage.......

I have recently purchased some injector cleaner to put into my fuel tank but others warn against this? I assume you think this is OK to use?

I have since taken mine to my local mechanic who also said the oil leaking is normal for a car with high mileage.......

I have recently purchased some injector cleaner to put into my fuel tank but others warn against this? I assume you think this is OK to use?

I couldn't say for sure, I was warned not to do it, but I was also warned to use only

I think I may have your answer, check the hoses under the airbox cover, does the car make any turbo whistling sound? if so follow the sound on idle and it should reveal if the hoses are split or disconnected.

BTW, that service I just did, really did the trick, different car now, picks up really well from standstill and seems to be selecting higher gears quicker as well, I only did oil and air filters and VX 5/30 fully synth oil, but just recently I was experiencing lag like no other, it was getting embarrasing when ppl let me out of junctions, I still suspect the dealer didn't service it and the oil was knackered, very black and very thin, gone now, so all good for now.

I have since taken mine to my local mechanic who also said the oil leaking is normal for a car with high mileage.......

I have recently purchased some injector cleaner to put into my fuel tank but others warn against this? I assume you think this is OK to use?

I've recently had my car serviced at my local dealer , they put a can of Forte advanced formula fuel treatment in it , supposed to keep egr s clean. it was

I've recently had my car serviced at my local dealer , they put a can of Forte advanced formula fuel treatment in it , supposed to keep egr s clean. it was

So basically I should put some in then?