Need to clarify something before i go out and buy some parts.

Going to be getting the parts to replace the timing chain, but before i do need to know for sure that its my timing chain making that noise!

The noise it a very clattery sort of noise that eminates from the far left side of the engine (left side being if you looked straight at the engine).

There is no noise that comes from the underneath/top of engine... so not the crank or valves tapping...

Any help/input would be appreciated... thanks

Timing chain is normally at the "front" of the engine - i.e. in front of No 1. cylinder, at the same end as any drivebelts. Of course on a transverse engine this means it's at one "end". It's usually under a cover on the end of the engine - sometimes there's a shaped bump at the top where the camshaft sprockets are.

The noise when it's worn is usually a ticking / clattering noise, quite light in character.

Yep... thats right... it is the fron of the engine, but like i say, it comes from the left (looking straight at the engine in the car) and is quite a "light" clatter as you put it... think it is the timing chain.. checked everythin else in that area and nothing else making it... must be coming from under that cover.

Time to order the parts and get it changed... see how much quieter it gets.

thanks

It's probably the tensioner worn more than the chain, so make sure you get the tensioner parts too.

If you have a noisy 1.3, its the timing chain for certain.

The chain is on the left hand end of the engine, yes.

Changing it will be a night and day difference for sure!

Good luck with it!!!

It's probably the tensioner worn more than the chain, so make sure you get the tensioner parts too.

The 1.3's with the chain drive dont have a tensioner.... thats why they rattle so much!!! lol

Will order the parts off ebay...

No tensioner! hmmm

You will probably find the car idles more smoothly and drives better afterwards as well then, due to the timing being more stable and accurate.

No tensioner! hmmm

You will probably find the car idles more smoothly and drives better afterwards as well then, due to the timing being more stable and accurate.

Yes ive noticed that the engine revs vary very very slightly in time with the rattling, and there is a slight hesitation sometimes when changing gear that could be related to the slack in the chain being taken then kicking in and turning the rest of the engine.

Thanks

Skoda dealers sell the chain for

Skoda dealers sell the chain for

there's no tensioner on felicia chains they just stretch over time.

fitted a chain 6 months ago and its noisey again have there been probs with o.e.chains

fitted a chain 6 months ago and its noisey again have there been probs with o.e.chains

How many miles?

fitted a chain 6 months ago and its noisey again have there been probs with o.e.chains

...The skoda 1289cc pushrod lump will be a noisey engine and not as smooth as your everyday OHC engines anyway, theres more moving engine internals due to it being a pushrod engine. It might not be the chain this time.

It was the timing chain making all that noise... well, of course the engine is still rattly but it was un-believable how much quieter it was with the new chain on...

Been done some months now... just need to do valve clearances... dont really understand how im supposed to know when to stop rotating engine and check each valve!! lol and also need to sort the oil breather system out (so it doesn't feed all that dirty oil into the air intake!)

dont really understand how im supposed to know when to stop rotating engine and check each valve!! quote]

The best way to do this is to park on level ground, take the rocker cover off - put the car in gear (handbrake off) and gently roll the car back and forth - you will see the valves move up and down - and then will be able to adjust as necessary.

All Instructions in haynes I think - I did it to my Favorit. Quite an easy job.

stripped covers off felicia 2 day chain was very slack fitted another new chain/sprockets ect .foc.asked dealer wat shims in box were for were told we dont use them.no one seems to know wat the paper in box says

[quote name=richardsfavorit;1061941The best way to do this is to park on level ground' date=' take the rocker cover off - put the car in gear (handbrake off) and gently roll the car back and forth - you will see the valves move up and down - and then will be able to adjust as necessary.

All Instructions in haynes I think - I did it to my Favorit. Quite an easy job.[/quote]

I know how to rotate the engine... but do i just watch for when the valve goes up to the top then when it starts to drop again, rotate the other way to get it to top again. Or is the movement they have very slight and their either at the top (open) or at the bottom (closed)?

Thanks

Hi phil, I had this problem recently too. It just took me a long while to figure it all out for a job that the Haynes manual says is easy, and the Haynes manual didn't give a detailed explanation of the procedure (just something about being on the heel of the cam which didn't explain to me what the valves should be doing).

I eventually figured out I should turn the engine until one valve spring was fully compressed (it will be compressed and become uncompressed with a small amount of turning, but with a little practice you get the hang of it) and adjusted the opposite one (which was uncompressed), and used 2 sets of feeler gauges, one .20mm and the other .25mm, if .25mm didn't fit I assumed it had to be less than that. The valve opposite is on the heel of the cam when the valve opposite is fully compressed where the cam is lifting the pushrod. (If I got it all right).

Opposite one as in

Fully compressed -- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Adjust -------------- 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Haynes gives an order in which they will come up when the engine is turned, but I ignored this and got a bit of paper with 1-8 on it and ticked off the one's I had adjusted, and kept turning the engine till I ticked them all off.

I found it best to put it in 5th, jack up drivers side wheel, and turn that - which is a suggestion given by someone on this forum somewhere. Thanks whoever that is

Hope this helps.

stripped covers off felicia 2 day chain was very slack fitted another new chain/sprockets ect .foc.asked dealer wat shims in box were for were told we dont use them.no one seems to know wat the paper in box says

I wonder if that's the "woodruff key" thingy the Haynes manual mentions?

I wonder if that's the "woodruff key" thingy the Haynes manual mentions?

The woodruff key from what i remember is the little washer with a notch on it, i just used the old one.

Thanks for the reply... think i finally understand what im doing now... and turning the wheel is a good trick, hadn't thought of that one.

Will get the haynes out some time and get it done!!!

Paper shims in the timing chain? The mind boggles! The paper is probably oiled paper to keep the chain-set moist and it says "Please dispose of this paper sensibly"

The Woodruff Key is the semi-circular bit of metal that fits between the sprockets and the shafts to locate them & stop them turning.

The flat washer with the tabs is a locking washer that I hope you turned down onto the flat of the nut once you'd tigthened it up! It's preferable if they're only used once and twice is the max.

A woodruff key is a piece of metal used to lock a gear onto a shaft. If you look at the centre of the old crankshaft sprocket you'll see a rectangular cutout on one side of the centre hole, running through the sprocket. That's the keyway. The key itelf will be rectangular or slightly wedge-shaped, about as long as the depth of the sprocket centre, as wide as the keyway, and twice as deep as the keyway.

I'd expect shim stock to be thin sheet, no more than about 1mm thick. A woodruff key will be several times that thickness.

Oh and if you leave it out, the camshaft probably won't spin with the engine.

hey folks, im a n00b too this but all the advice on these forums so helpfull.

Im having a timing chain issue, and my cars makin alot of noise when it ticks over.

a jingleing noice, i was told its the timing chain.

I gota 1.3Mpi felica lx

and was wondering how much it costs for a new timing chain and service.

p.s any one have an idea how much a new cluth will cost also?

many thanks.

hey folks, im a n00b too this but all the advice on these forums so helpfull.

Im having a timing chain issue, and my cars makin alot of noise when it ticks over.

a jingleing noice, i was told its the timing chain.

I gota 1.3Mpi felica lx

and was wondering how much it costs for a new timing chain and service.

p.s any one have an idea how much a new cluth will cost also?

many thanks.

I think I was quoted