Remote Central Locking Installation Guide

[GamezBond]

Ok Mr.Gamez,

I've attached 2 things. One is a colour guide, i.e. which wires represent what in relation to central locking (and where to find them). The other is based on a rclick wiring system (this may be useless so don't use it if you think it's not right).

Jon

many thanks JonBoy , i will be trying this 2moro eve. I have left the car in bits so I dont have to open and close every eve after work otherwise I will end up breaking all the clips etc

[jacko203]

Right, still not got around to doing this yet, but will prob do it this weekend. Does the setup you have, JonBoy, activate the deadlocks - i.e. cause the red LED near the door lock pin to flash?

I've got a little idea if it doesn't, which I'll run through with you.

As for the windows, I'm not having much luck trying to find circuit diagrams or a basic explanation of the system - anyone know where I could find these? Where did you manage to get most of your info from originally JonBoy?

Thanks

Rob

[jonboyuk]

Jacko: My information is a mix of experience, speaking on here and surfing the web! Worry not, the system I have shown activates the deadlocks automatically - no need for any further work.

As for the windows, I have agreed with my local garage to get a tecchie there to work it out. My car's there at the moment (engine management lights/ECL probs), so hopefully they will be able to help and I can let you all know

GamezBond: Good luck buddy!

[GamezBond]

OK, I finally got it done last night

JonBoy this should help you when you are doing the Octavia.

Jacko, the information regarding power Windows (Comfort closing) is towards the bottom.

Here is what I did. Please follow these instructions for OCTAVIA as I am not sure if Fabia etc follow the same colours and pin numbers etc. Mine is a 2.0 petrol Model engine code AQY. year 2000 (X-reg).

you will have to take off the driver side foot well bottom fascias/cover. Be careful not to damage anything.

Also separate the fuse box from this fascia by undoing the two screws that hold the fuse box to the fascia. Then unplug all connectors including the light switch, light adjustment switch, and the OBD diagnostics connector at the bottom. For this please follow the excellent instructions written and attached by JonBoy ( Many thanks mate).

You can then undo the two screws holding the Central Convenience Module (CCM) which is located just under the speedo. It is a black colour box with two set of connectors in my case and you will find it if you look upwards from the drivers footwell.

Alarm Central Unit position: positioned behind the central console, towards the driver side. I found a nice little gap there, perfect for the alarm centre module.

Power Supply to the alarm (+ve input): If you take off the plastic covers in the drivers footwell, you will see a set of relays there. One of them says +30 and has a nice bolt and nut there, I connected the alarm power supply +ve wire here. An alternative is the RED/WHITE wire going to the pin 22 of the Central Convenience Module (CCM).

Ground supply to the alarm (input): I connected the ground supply to one of the two screws that hold the Central Convenience Module (CCM). The CCM is also referred to as ZV or ZM module in some of the references I saw. Alternative is to connect to the BROWN wire at the pin 23 of the CCM module.

Ignition Wire (input): I personally connected to the first relay starting from the left. I think its marked 70 or 73 or 74 ( Please let me know if any one needs me to check this if you dont find it). When checking with a multimeter, this will show +12V when ignition is turned ON. An alternative is to connect to the BLACK/WHITE wire at pin 5 or YELLOW/RED wire at position 3 of the CCM module.

Direction Indicators(Output):Connect to the BLACK/WHITE and BLACK/GREEN wires in the 2nd connector on the CCM module. An alternative is to connect to the same colour wires directly at the back of the Hazard Light switch. This switch can be prised out by using a thin flat blade screw driver carefully so not to mark the plastics around it. The Skoda badge around the hazard light switch has to come out first, and has four clips that can easily be prised off. They are locxated on the left and right side of the Octavia badge (2 each side). Then the switch itself can also be prised off using the same method.

Doors Open Switch (input):Connected to BLUE/BROWN wire at pin 13 of the CCM main connector. An alternative is to connect to the BROWN/BLUE wire (I am a little unsure of the colours on this one so please check with a multimter) going to the interior light. This wire can be found in the driver side pillar A. Becareful when taking the plastic cover off the pillar. Start pulling the cover from the top and pull in parallel direction to the wind screen. when you reach the bottom, dont pull, it just lifts off.

Boot Open Switch (input): Connect to the BROWN/BLACK wire at pin 15 of the CCM module. Alternative is to check and connect at the boot light.

Now comes the part I spent most time on (3 evenings):

Central Door Locking Connections (output): The Octavia has a Negative Signal Controlled Locking type 2 (Thanks JonBoy).

For this one I had to take the door trim/cover (not the waterproof membrane) off completely. Before you take the door trim off prise off the tweeter cover. It comes off easily when carefully using a flat head screw driver. Take care not to break any of the two plastic legs/pins. (let me know if you need more info about how to take the door trim off)

Once the door cover is off, look for a bunch of wires going to the actual door lock motor. The motor is located towards the external door open handle. These wires travel from the front end of the door to the door lock motor. Follow this bunch of wires and open the waterproof membrane carefully from the top, almost in the middle of the door, near where the internal door open handle goes normally. If you can get hold of double sided tape, then you can use that when you need to close the membrane at the end of this procedure. Once you have access to this bunch of wires coming directly from the door lock motor, undo a little bit of the cloth tape around the wires. Now look for WHITE/YELLOW (for locking) and BLACK/YELLOW (for unlocking). Now I routed two wires starting from inside the vehicle in the drivers footwell. I took off the bottom plastic cover around the Bonet Open Handle. This comes off by first taking off a small rectangular cover using a flat head small screw driver at the bottom of this cover. You will see two screws behind this small cover. Undo them both. Then undo the top two screws near the Bonet open handle and the cover will come off. Then route two wires from this end, through the rubber gaitor/cover and then into the door. I prefer to use a white and a black wire to remember in case I forget. You might have to take off one end of the rubber gaitor to feed the wires into the door. Fitting the rubber cover can be a bit fiddly, but I got it done after fiddling for about 5 minutes. Make sure that it is seated properly to make a good seal and that the creases on this rubber cover don’t look squashed etc and look like they used to look before removing J

Then connect these two wires to the wires you found in the door. Seal all the joints etc. Seal the membrane with double sided tape, or soft insulation tape. I took this opportunity to repair all previously made holes/rips too with a clear plastic tape.

I tested the connecteions by first checking with a multimeter, and then connecting them one by one to the earth. Each one should lock/unlock when an earth is applied.

Then put the door trim back on, remember to attach these connectors back again if you haven’t done that already:

· Bottom door light connector.

· Side mirrors adjuster connector.

· Window/locking switches connector.

· Door open handle pull wire which hooks on to the door handle.

· Insert the LED into the top of the door. And then finally insert the door lock **** (which moves up and down) in the hole.

After the door trim is fitted, connect these two wires to the appropriate wires on your alarm. You may need to check in your alarm manual on how to connect a Negative trigger type central locking with separate lock and unlock (negative triggered) signal.

Electric Windows (output): Octavia has comfort windows. Which means it is capable of shutting down all windows when locking the car. Jacko this bit may help for you. The best thing about this feature is that you don’t need to do much, because you have already done it in case you haven’t realsed this already J.

The wire for locking the door locks (WHITE/YELLOW that you connected earlier inside the door, is the same wire used for closing all windows. You may need to adjust the “Power Windows” timer/settings in your alarm. For this please refer to your alarm user guide. Basically you will need a negative output triggered for a length of time enough to close all windows.

That’s all. I have done it myself last night, so I can safely say it works. My instructions may not be very comprehensive so please give me a shout if more information is needed.

Many thanks to all who provided help for me to start and carry on.

[jonboyuk]

Gamezbond, congratulations mate!!!! I am so happy you've done it! Makes two of us now....I will try and do the Octavia soon, so thanks for the additional information!! I hadn't done the electric windows either - will it work on mine? I.e if I connect the wire to the close door cable? (Bearing in mind it's 1 cable operation for open and close on the fabia with the aid of a resistor)

Thanks

Jon

[GamezBond]

Hi Jon,

i am not sure if Fabia has comfort window option. If it does, then you should be able to turn the key anti clock wise and hold it in that position, in the lock, from outside the car (while a window is open) and see if it closes. If it does then you have it. Then you should check with a multimetre if the same line has a signal/voltage on it when the key is turned to lock the windows. you might have to stay inside the car while someone else turns and holds the key the key outside. if it is the same signal as your door locking signal, then you should check how your alarm can be enabled for power/comfort windows. Normally it should be a long negative pulse for few seconds (20 seconds or so) to keeping the closing motor on.

Good luck and hope you get the windows on Fabia and Octavia all sorted.

give me a shout if I can help.

[jonboyuk]

Yes it has that comfort option (ie I can close the windows when I hold the key in my car). My box sends a 20 sec neg. output with a green cable I haven't wired in yet. I'll just temporarily attach it to the door one and see what happens. Things aren't supposed to be that easy though are they?

[GamezBond]

Haha, you are right, normally things are more complicated. But as I found with my Octy, they were simpler than I though so I hope it will be same for you. But before you supply that negative 20 sec to the same wire, I would check with a Multimeter while closing the (power) windows to see if you see the signal on that line, just to be on the safe side. So far it has been a useful feature as GF forgets to close her window all the way, quite often. so i dont have to worry about closing them

Good luck.

[jacko203]

Success!

Thanks all for the help.

I wired the 20 second negative (green) straight into the wire leading to the door connection, now auto windows up.

My indicators aren't flashing for some reason, not sure why as there is a 12v pulse on the green/black & green/yellow lines below the dash when locking/unlocking. Not bothered though!

I used a 380 ohm resistor because I didn't have a 180 lying around, so I'll probably change that before worrying about the indicators.

Interestingly, the doors deadlock (can't get out from inside) but no flashing red light on door - everyone else got this or is it me?

Thanks again for your help Jon and Mr Bond!

Rob

[GamezBond]

Hi Rob,

Well done m8.

On mine, the red LED flashes fine, but yours is not Octavia so there may be differences. If you have time you can investigate further, or you can lock with your original remote to get the red LED flashin in adition to enabling the alarm.

If you want to find the connection for flashing the indicators, then the easiest way would be to look behind your hazard light switch. On mine, the colours are BLACK/WHITE and BLACK/GREEN b ut it may be different in yours, but they should both be present at the back of the hazard light switch (infact they should also be present at the CCM module as also flashes them)

Mine is working perfect now, and the only thing I havent yet installed is a hood switch for the engine compartment. I found an existing hole, but due to the paint, I couldnt get good earth on the switch and didnt want to scrape the paint either as it can get rusty etc, so still thinking what to do.

Once everything is working, I will be looking into a back up battery. i have a gel battery 12V which came out of a computer PSu and is in perfect condition. they are acid free, and very compact (but very powerfull). So I will be looking to install it in parallel with the main battery, but with a fuse in the middle of two in series. As far as I have heard, thieves may try to open the bonet (hence I need a bonet switch) and then take the main battery wires off to stop the alarm. if the alarm still doesnt stop, due to having its own battery (which is a pretty small & useless battery inside the sounder body), they will connect the + and - of the battery after taking the wires off, causing the back up battery to drain too. But having the above setup with a spare gell battery in parallel, with a fuse in series, will make sure that the sounder will still not stop.

I am also thinking about fitting another sounder INSIDE the car haha, that can be fitted at the back in the centre console so they will have to dismantle a lottt. Thinking of placing the backup gel battery near this sounder too as there is quite a bit of space in the centre console. This sounder is only to annoy an deafen the B**st**rds.

And finally just to let you guys know, I am taking my octi for LPG conversion. It will take a minimum of two days. Having a OMVL sequential injection fitted. hopefully it will go well, and I will have half price fuel soon wish me luck.

[jonboyuk]

Blimey GamesB! That's crazy! You must be paid far too much Good luck though mate.

Jacko - told you it was easy eh! I wonder how Arcalius is getting on? Well done though mate. As for the indicators - not too sure, as with Arcalius just check the splicing connection. Mine were a bit dodgy at first so crimped them again and was okay. The deadlock red light works on my Fabia, so no different from the Octavia - not sure why however :-/ Sorry.

[GamezBond]

Jacko,

Does the red light work when you lock the car using the original control still?

just wondering if something went wrong when and if youopened the door or other connections etc.

good luck mate.

[jacko203]

No, the red light doesn't flash with the key either, but it is deadlocked - as in I can't open doors from the inside when it is locked. I'll check the connections of all the wires in the white plug in the door loom as I dismantled it to get the other wire in.

Besides, my car has just failed its MOT so I've got more important things to worry about!

[GamezBond]

Oh, sorry to hear that mate.

I know a good MOT place that only charges if they pass the car, as long as the car is under 10 years old, which yours should be. So i think that its in their interest to not fuss about the unnecessary checks. i have taken my car and motorbike to many different garages and they all seem to have different set of "requirements". for example, one garage failed the MOT cos apparently the brake pads were worn more than the limit ( i thought they were fine). Then another MOT garage told me that the requirement is to check the performance of the breaking system, and leaks etc, but not the actual pads!!

Anyway, I havent gone anywhere else since I found this garage about3/4 years ago. It is Catford, London. Let me know if I can help and if you need the garage address etc.

hope you get it sorted.

[GamezBond]

Blimey GamesB! That's crazy! You must be paid far too much Good luck though mate.

.

Thanks Its just a future plan, more like a dream..lol. not sure if I will ever get around to doing it or not but first comes a dream, then comes a plan

Oh BTW, I got my car back today. the LPG conversion is completed. So far the car is working exactly as before apart from the ticking sound from the gas injectors. I dont feel any loss of power. Not a noticeable drop in the consumption either, and the consumption still displays on the computer like before cos the new LPG ECU is linked to the main ECU and the car still thinks its working on petrol. So the sensors still report like before and the air/fuel supply and demand is managed just like before, mainly by the car ECU.

The only thing to complain about is the size of the gas tank, which is only 50 litres :(

But I guess its still not too bad. I will make my money back in less than one year I think. so quite pleased with it so far.

[alftupper]

I just fitted one of the rightclick remotes and fitted the whole lot in the rear side panel of an octavia estate. Car already had central locking but no remote and was a simple job to fit, piggy backed off the rear power socket and all the wiring bar one indicator was easily accessible without removing any panels.

[jonboyuk]

nice one - that's a good way to do it!

[jonboyuk]

Just to say thanks to GamezBond for the informatoin regarding the window closer. I did it today and it worked perfectly. Thanks buddy!

[GamezBond]

No worries JonBoy. I am glad you got it sorted. I only started doing mine after the information I got from your posts so many thanks to you too m8

The issue I find now is that when a heavy vehicle goes past, the shock sensor goes off while parked on my drive, even though its at its minimum setting.

But its not so sensitive when I slightly hit the car windows etc. Do you think its cos I have placed the shock sensor wrongly? do you have a recommendation for the location of the shock sensor pls ? (It is corrently strapped to the steering shaft)

[jonboyuk]

Gamez, I actually only installed central locking but no alarm! Personally I would have put the sensor more central in the car! But that's just me. I think it would help balance things out a little? I dunno..try some different locations.

[GamezBond]

Ok Thanks, I will try some different locations.

[skydancer]

Have a question regarding windows auto up. I installed a remote central locking, working fine. I have connected the green wire to the door wire. When I lock the car, the windows auto up. When I unlock the door, windows go down to about half size, and I can only control them if I first lock my car. Othewise, the buttons for windows control don't work. WTH?

[GamezBond]

Personally I didnt want the windows going down when I unlock the car. I only wanted to shut them in case I or another passenger forgot to close their window fully. is there an option for you to only close them and disconnect the opening wire? I think half the size is only cause by the timer on your alarm that its supplying the signal on the open wire for a limited time only, which is only long enough for the windows to go down half way. You could possibly check this with a volt meter. Which alarm is it brand and model name please? and also are the installation instructions online at all? or can you scan and email them to me so I can have a ook at what configurable options you may have on the timers etc.

[skydancer]

Personally I didnt want the windows going down when I unlock the car. I only wanted to shut them in case I or another passenger forgot to close their window fully. is there an option for you to only close them and disconnect the opening wire? I think half the size is only cause by the timer on your alarm that its supplying the signal on the open wire for a limited time only, which is only long enough for the windows to go down half way. You could possibly check this with a volt meter. Which alarm is it brand and model name please? and also are the installation instructions online at all? or can you scan and email them to me so I can have a ook at what configurable options you may have on the timers etc.

that would be great...it's something like giordon v686tr. The manufacturer has a web site, but I don't think there are any manuals online, so will scan them tonight and send it to you. I did find out the windows open/close if I set the jumper for automaticaly rearming the alarm to off, otherwise, the windows neither open or close.

Thank you in advance

edit:

found this, it seems to be exactly like mine

moj album, najenostavnej¹a in najprijaznej¹a objava slik.

do you know which wire is for doors switch, as it won't lock if I accidentaly unlock the car?

[harro]

do you know which wire is for doors switch, as it won't lock if I accidentaly unlock the car?

If you are asking for the wire that you should connect to control unit of alarm to let it know when a door is open I think the cable is brown with orange on the brown connector

thanks jonboyuk for the picture

that is for fabia.

I'm not 100% sure for that info, but when the red light in door trim illuminates i get "-" there, and that is the signal desired from my alarm to know that the door is opened. Soon I'll try it and let you know. My alarm control unit is dead so I'm waiting for a new one. I didn't mentioned that my alarm is sending "+" signals to the indicator lights, so when I connected the cables to the indicator light cables and turned hazards on and panic on my alarm... a white smoke came out and I smelled "electricity" Now my alarm is signaling with the dimension lights, it's not bad