Any news on the key guide

Well after three hours I thought me and my girlfriens brother in law thought we had the wiring sorted, so we hooked the ecu up to the loom...nothing.

He checked that there was a voltage and a resistance, we checked all the connections and still...nothing.

We followed the instructions, er soldered the resistor to the white wire and then atached it to the white and black wire, we attached it to the live, we earthed the black yellow and yellow/black cable.

I seriously cannot see what we have done wrong.

ARGHHH

Ok sorry mate, I've been on holiday! First of all, do you get any power through the system? ie. do the indicators flash but the doors don't open/lock?

No, no flashes nothing.

you said about there being +12v in yellow and yellow/black...we didnt but they are grounded.

But power showing elsewhere...

Ive noticed something else, not sure if its because of the wiring, cos we left it in. My stereo switched off this morning after i started the engine, and i had to take the face plate off and put it back on to turn it back on. And also the electric window wouldnt wind back up after i took the keys out

Okay Arcalius,

There should be a surge of 12V coming through the white & white/black cables. The negative power is provided through the grounded cables (this is only for locking/unlocking the doors). Make sure the yellow and yellow/black cables are properly spliced into the black (ground cable). That is essential. Also make sure your ground is clean and fits tightly to bare chassis.

As for your window etc, that's probably something to do with the loom coming from the door and into the A-Pillar. Make sure the only cable that you have wired into is Pin 5 on the white plug. Make sure there are no cross-overs because these can create all sorts of strange problems.

It would help me to help you if you could get some nice photos of what you've done so far!! Just an idea! Don't worry, we'll get it working

The windows seemed to stop opening and closing after i had taken the keys out of the exhaust and opened the door...dont know if this is normal not having owned a skoda before, but they would still open and close with the key in the door.

As for the wiring, yes there is voltage coming from the white abd white/black cables, and the yellow cables we connected to the black earth at the ring connector rather than slicing them. My brother in law soldered the ring connector directly to them, to make it a cleaner connection.

There were no power surges from the ECU when the key was pressed to open the door or close it. I have contacted Right Click and they have agreed to replace the box, as my brother in law thought it may have been that rather than the wiring we followed your instructions almost too the letter. The only thing I can see we did different was the earth, but as far as i can see it is essentially the same.

As fr pics, i can get you a pic of the earth, but i dont feel like i want to remove the dash again at the moment. sorry

As soon as you open the door it cuts off any power to the windows. There is residual opening and closing power until you open the door! Basically, that is normal.

As for pics, don't worry. I'm a little concerned about your earthing. I know for a fact a bad earth will muck up any chance of getting it working! Where have you earthed it to? Did you splice into the indicators? Where do you guys live?

The earth has been attached exactly where you suggested I attach it, on the chassis just above the fuse box.

The yellows were not spliced into the indicators. Should they have been?

Give me five minutes and i will try and get a picture.

I live in Worcester, and my brother in law lives in Redditch

nd thank you for the door thing, that has helped ease my mind

Here is an image of the earth

Well you'll be glad to know your earthing is spot on! In fact, it's much neater than mine...you even used a rubber 'O' to prevent the wires from chaffing against the metal! Okay so that leaves a few cables.... live, indicators, and door x2. If your indicators weren't even working then the chances are you did have a faulty unit. Oh and no, the yellows aren't supposed to go into the indicators. Worcester eh, were you affected by the flooding?

For the door wire we essentially made one cable out of the white and white/black cable, connect the cables to one cable with a bullet connector.

for the indicators we spliced those into the wires you mentioned, and the live was connected in much the same way as the earth with a ring connector.

The indicators werent flashing, and we werent getting any fluctuations from any of the wired when I was pressing the open and close buttons.

I got an email from Right Click telling me i could return the unit so I have and Ill wait and see if t was in fact the box rather than our wiring. When I open the dash up again ill make sure to take pictures too.

Thanks for the help

You said

"For the door wire we essentially made one cable out of the white and white/black cable, connect the cables to one cable with a bullet connector."

Please tell me one of those wires has a resistor on before the bullet connector? If so, it would seem that your wiring is spot on. When you get the new box, lemme know and defo get some photos!!! 2nd time lucky

Yeah the resistor is before the bullet connector. is goes wire-resistor-wire-bullet connector. and the wire with the fuse in goese wire-fuse-wire bullet connector

so both wires go into the bullet connector and then from that into one wire

spot on!

Hi Jonboy,

Great guide. Very clear pics and very helpful.

did you say you were going to do an Octavia too?

I am going to try and install a remote alarm to my octavia which already has remote central locking but didnt have an alarm.

Have you got around to doing the Octi as yet ?

If you have, then any information on connections to locking wires and locations would be really helpful. Currently facing difficulties as Octavia has dead locks.

Thanks for your help.

Ok, got the new ECU yesterday, fitted it today and it works!!! well the doors lock and open, the boot doesnt open, and the indicators dont flash but the rest of it works.

Here are more pictures of my wiring..

Gamez bond, I will endevaour to do the Octavia shortly. It's my parents and I'm waiting for them to come back from holiday. I will do it however!! So watch this space. Tell me what year Octavia you have and I'll help you with some of the connections.

Arcalius. WELL DONE!!!I knew you could do it. Right - the issues.

I'm not sure why your boot isn't playing ball as it's directly connected to the rest of the C/L. I will ponder on that one. The indicators seem to be ok, make sure the splicings are okay. Do the usual - pop a multimeter on the brown cables and see if any voltage is being produced. If no, you might still have a faulty box (doubt it though). Oh and I'm still on the case with the Electric Windows.

I remember when I pressed that button and they finally worked! Well done.

A guide for the keys!

If you have questions - ask me Jon. This was for a VW Key but the principle's the same. I would say that I would recommend getting a new key cut based on an old one instead of trying to make it fit as per the attached guide. Also the Skoda key's have glass transponders so be VERY CAREFUL in removing them.

Jon

keyf.pdf

Yeah it is odd, the box clicks as if it is doing something but it doesnt. the same with the indicators, i get a clicking from the ECU then nothing...

Gamez bond, I will endevaour to do the Octavia shortly. It's my parents and I'm waiting for them to come back from holiday. I will do it however!! So watch this space. Tell me what year Octavia you have and I'll help you with some of the connections.

JonBoy, Mine is a year 2000 (X-reg) 2.0 petrol manual model. Engine code AQY. Hatchback.

Okay, the car is now in bits I connected few wires last night. My alarm is a 2way LCD alarm that feeds back the car status to the alarm fob, and according the manual, it has upto 1500 metres range (This may depend on the terrain though). it is useful lwhen going to shopping centre, cinema, or a new place to visit etc.

So far I have connected the power, antenna, Interior light (for door open trigger, but please suggest if there is a better input for this), LED light, and also the central locking OPEN wire to the wire in the internal driver controls located in the drivers door. I havent connected the 200 ohm resisitor as yet and hence the CLOSE part is not yet connected. Since the car already has remote central locking, and dead locks, so far the problems I face are these:

The alarm fob will only open the doors if they were locked using the internal button for central locking. If I close the doors using the original Skoda remote, it dead locks the doors (which is what I would like to achieve with the alarm fob too). Once the doors are dead locked, and the red LED on the drivers door starts flashing, the doors can not be opened using the new alarm fob. I THINK that the original alarm sends two lock signals when dead locking and a single one when the lock button is pressed on the original remote 2nd time (hence it doesnt deadlock the doors). I think that the internal button in the drivers door also sends a single pulse to lock and not a double pulse (please correct me if i am wrong). Also, another path for me to take could be to find out the wire that triggers deadlocks when using the original remote, and connect my LOCKING wire to this wire. and do the same for opening. Does any one know where I might find this wire please?

The door open input that is currently connected to the dome light doesnt seem to react much to the door openeing. I think this may be because I need to change a jumper to allow positive trigger on this input, so this may not be a huge issue.

Also do you know where I might find the trunk release wire. I think the trunk lock is also connected to the central locking. There is no individual button on the original remote to unolock only the trunk.

many thanks for your help.

Ok Mr.Gamez,

I've attached 2 things. One is a colour guide, i.e. which wires represent what in relation to central locking (and where to find them). The other is based on a rclick wiring system (this may be useless so don't use it if you think it's not right).

As far as I'm aware, the Octavia you have is a Type 2 negative central locking system. The guide I wrote for was a Type 6 - therefore my second page may help you. You shouldn't need a resistor. The resistor is to change the voltage on closing the Fabia, but the Fabia operates both opening and closing on a single wire whereas your car works on two. An open and a close.

Not sure about the deadlock question.

Finally, the boot release. My kit includes 2x 3-button remotes, open/close/boot release. On Skoda's the boot release is unused because the overall central locking controls doors and boot. Would there be any point in a dedicated boot button....really?

Anyway, check out the diagram and see if it helps!

Jon

Arcalius, clicking means the box is reacting properly but you still need to see whether there's temorary voltage coming from the brown wires. Also, you must check the splicers are REALLY tight (ie crimpped using pliars)

Ok, will do, my brother in law has all the techy stuff, so ill check it next time im at his. The splicers were done with pliars, but i suppose a second look cant hurt.

Thanks