Can anyone tell me how you remove the scuttle pannel on an Octavia to access the pollen filter and the gromet for an amplifier power cable.

I guess you remove the glovebox.

Open bonnet.

Remove rubber cushion along forward edge of scuttle panel.

Gently prise panel out of slot along edge of windscreen. Depending on the level of access you require you may have to remove the wiper arms too - pop off plastic cap with small screwdriver, remove 13mm nut, pull arm off spline (push sprung loaded arm towards windscreen while pulling up on the very end of the arm on the other side of the spindle).

To replace, insert flange on panel in groove along bottom edge of windscreen and press in firmly, push down well to ensure it is seated and seals against glass, or your windscreen washers will not aim properly. Also ensure the washer pipe is clipped back into retaining clips along bottom surface of panel or they get tangled up in the wiper mechanism and spring leaks!

I guess you remove the glovebox.

No, you get at it from the engine side, Adrian. See previous post. It's on the passenger side on the other side of the firewall from the glovebox.

Ahh cheers Nick , had a go this morning but didn't want to pull it too hard from the base of the windscreen in case it was screwed in somewhere else.

Will have another go this afternoon.

You don't need to remove the panel in order to remove the pollen filter or push a cable through the bulkhead. Do a search in the ICE section for a how-to written by yours truly...

Well I stand to be corrected but I believe when the dealers replace the filter they do it from the engine side ...

Ofcourse you do. The pollen filter is located underneath the scuttle panel. The post I was referring to is: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3066

No, you get at it from the engine side, Adrian. See previous post. It's on the passenger side on the other side of the firewall from the glovebox.

Rodger dodger!

Ofcourse you do. The pollen filter is located underneath the scuttle panel. The post I was referring to is: [url']http://www.briskoda.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3066[/url]

Aha! key word I didn't read carefully enough being remove. Quite right - you can lift up the front edge and get your hands underneath - as long as you don't mind scraped knuckles ...

Isn't there a gromet on the battery (rhs) side?

scraped knuckles

Yes... very painfull indeed :weeping:

Yes... very painfull indeed :weeping:

God what a nightmare, but finally one 4 gague cable is in with 20 odd scrapes and cuts to show for it :thumbdwn:

Told you

Has anyone fed 0 gauge down the car? I am looking at doing this shortly and its not as flexible as 4 gauge, so will i encounter problems, like behind the Air con unit?

Will you be fitting an extra engine to provide the power to whatever is on the other end of your 0 gauge wire, Madmax? From a table I've just looked at, 2 gauge will handle 1200 watts over 25 feet - 0 gauge is about 60% bigger in cross-sectional area so should handle up to about 1800 watts. The average car alternator can produce about 50 amps = 600 watts @ 12 volts. Therefore I calculate you will need at least 2 extra alternators, and probably a second engine to drive them once you hook them up to your 1800 watt load. Where's it going? If it's in the back seat, of course you won't need to worry about threading the cable through the grommet at the front of the car ...

0 gauge can handle up to 350 amps which is 5040 watts. Amplifiers are between 50 and 80% efficient depending on class, so its still 3000 to 4000 watts. My stereo will be approx 2500 watts (200 amp draw).

I will not be running extra alts or engines. I will be running extra batteries and the whole install will fit neatly and stealthly into the boot.

The alternator on the Octavia is 90 amps and the 70Ah battery will have a CCA rating of approx 600CCA which is measured at - 18 degrees i believe which will be approx 1000 amps draw if needed for not very long.

Also it will only draw this amount of power at full volume, which isn't very often. I could use 4 gauge but I would prefer to use 0 gauge, but if its 2 hard to run, it might be 2 runs of 4 gauge.

2500 watts? Why?!

Rob.

quality reasons, not for SPL reasons.

It is hard to explain, so I won't try. But if you have an annual meet after August, I will be happy to come along and demo the stereo to anyone.

I will hopefully be competing in August in an IASCA event for SQ, ie how good the stereo sounds.

No, really...why do you need 2500 watts for sound quality? My home hi-fi runs at about 45W per channel and that seems plenty good enough for sound quality...

Rob.

I agree completely for home audio, but in home audio, you don't have problems of road noise decreasing the bass and ruining the detail in the music.

Also your speakers are aimed perfectly, eqidistance apart, whereas in the car you have various parts of the car/yourself in the way of the sound. Also you don't have the phase problems in home of all the drivers placed differently and aimed differently. You also have perfectly designed boxes for the speakers.

If you want a good read, have a read of papers 101 and 104 from this site....

http://www.audiocontrol.com/MobileAudio/Support/TechnicalPapers/index.html

I will be running 3 ways upfront and a single 12 in the boot most of the time.

I can see how 2500 watts seems OTT, the breakdown is as follows...

Tweeters - 75 watts each

Mids - 150 watts each

Midbass - 300 watts each

Sub - 1100 watts or 750 each if i have 2 in.

I won't use all that power, but its good to have head room, so the stereo doesn't sound strained.

I agree completely for home audio' date=' but in home audio, you don't have problems of road noise decreasing the bass and ruining the detail in the music.

Also your speakers are aimed perfectly, eqidistance apart, whereas in the car you have various parts of the car/yourself in the way of the sound. Also you don't have the phase problems in home of all the drivers placed differently and aimed differently. You also have perfectly designed boxes for the speakers.

[/quote']

Surely, given all the above, there is not much point in spending lots of money trying to get a high quality sound system in a car then? As spending the money on equipment for a less acoustically hostile environment would yield much better results?

Rob.

I already have a rather nice home setup, but I spend 3 hours a day in my car travelling to and from work and also at home you can't turn the stereo up loud, as you have neighbours around. I don't mean booming bass, I mean full range loud and only as I drive down the motorway. I agree it is damn hard to get it sounding good, and does take a rather large amount of power and a rather large number of speakers (I won't go into the amount of cabling or costs of cabling) but with time, effort and using an RTA, you can get the car sounding amazing.

My last setup looked OTT as it was crammed into a Citroen Zx as i was using all 2 channel amps and there was too much for the car, but it sounded absolutly amazing and could really show up a bad recording. My friends dad who is a sound engineer and owns a

Mind-boggling :eek:

I hope you live a long way away from me, Madmax (no offence intended). Methinks you will be getting quite well acquainted with your local EHO.

EHO??

and just wondering why you hope I don't live near you? (not offended, just curious)