No, I mean what other products sit between the wax and the paint clearcoat. And what condition is the paint in - was it clay barred and polished for example, before you applied Collinite the first time round?

Steve

i find after a month it looses its beadyness and looks as if its unwaxed.

As I said mines still beading as if i applied it yesterday.

What paint prep are you doing before you apply?

Edit, as Steve is implying, if you don't polish the car before putting the wax on it won't really bond properly.

So since you appear to be in the AG club, I'd say something like:

- AG wash

- Bilt Hamber clay (if you need to clay)

- AG SRP

- AG EGP (single layer if you want to do this)

- Colli 476 (single layer)

Either the next day or a week later

Wash well then apply a second layer of the colli all over.

Also go and get a couple of the megs foam applicators from halfords or similar and use these to put the wax on. It goes on a lot better with this i find.

its had:

AG shampoo stuff

AG resin

AG gloss

collinite

I'm not an AG man, but I'd say you need to apply the Collinite after the resin polish stage.

My stages are:

Shampoo and dry

Claybar

Intensive Polish

Final Polish

Sealant

Collinite

Victoria Concourse

Steve

pete's 53 looks good on dark colours and is reasonably priced

I'm not an AG man, but I'd say you need to apply the Collinite after the resin polish stage.

My stages are:

Shampoo and dry

Claybar

Intensive Polish

Final Polish

Sealant

Collinite

Victoria Concourse

Steve

i was told to do resin and then put on the gloss sealent stuff then do the wax last.

the resin and gloss sealent stuff goes on about 3 times a year. normally its a case of rinse car, AG shampoo, rinise, dry and wax.

I did effectively SRP/EGP then wax on mine Steve.

You did leave it a good time for the resin to cure before you applied the wax I hope as that will cause problems.

Instead of EGP I used turtlewax gloss guard, but IIRC it's near enough the same stuff.

You need to do the SRP, do the EGP, let it dry and cure.

Ideally if you have time:

Wash, Dry, SRP, EGP, leave the car over a couple of hours or overnight, then wax then 12 hours then wax.

If you leave the car you might need to throw in a couple of wash and dry stages.

Once you've done the wax you could put another single coat on to top it up at somewhere between 3 and 6 months if you felt the need, but I have not.

Another thing to note is that you could be making up the shampoo too strong and that is stripping wax. Do you only use the dose specified on the bottle?

Ah right, fair enough. Told you I didn't do AG!

Steve

i use a capful for a full (and i mean full) to the brim big bucket. i noticed today in the rain parked next to not so well kept cars belonging to collegues in the rain that my car still looks waxed (not used the collinite in over a month just a very light spray of AG aquawax as its a great way of removing water marks), car was last washed 3 weeks ago as ive not had a weekend since that i could get it washed and yes you can see its waxed against an unwaxed car. But it looks like it was waxed months ago, not the just waxed look as if ive waxed it this morning. this is the look im after and not the 3 months on and it will need waxing again next time i wash it. cold water certainly works to keep the wax on the car, noticed hot water eats away at the wax a bit quicker.

Ah right, fair enough. Told you I didn't do AG!

Steve

I don't any more.

Klasse AIO, BH shampoo and foam and clay, and Colli are my current favourites.

I'm wondering if the aquawax is doing something there.

I'd probably give the car a full on prep from the base and then put two layers of the colli on and not bother with the aquawax.

you can get a US Gallon of last touch for about

not sure, but will look next time im in the garage where all my stuff is stored.

found this for it on the website, not much info really Autoglym - car cleaning products, car care products, car valeting, car detailing but in the trade section they do their own snow foam.

Just a word of thought, Autoglym shampoo/conditioner can be used like snow foam if you have the proper foam producing lance/accessory & from my experience i have found it to be a better alternative to using high foaming TFR (traffic film remover) as with most TFR's you really must dilute it properly or you can get run marks that are difficult to remove!

I've seen quite a few cars who's owners have gotten hold of some form of TFR but don't dilute it properly & IMO it's better just to use a foaming shampoo to be on the safe side! If this was a site dedicated for articulated lorries etc i'd definately recommend TFR (high foaming etc) but in most cases the members cars on this website will be to a standard that just doesn't require it! If i'm honest i really only use TFR to soak into the bugs/flies on the front bumper & down both sides below the trim line prior to washing!

As for Aquawax, my findings are that it's fine as a "quick fix" wax & does contain a certain amount of carnauba but IMO anything that allows you to apply it to a wet car really isn't going to be very durable & for that reason i'd probably not recommend it "in this case" as the frequency you mention when it comes to waxing/polishing your car outweights any benefits you'd get from using it!

Like one of the last posts says... Many people make the mistake of waxing/polishing their car & immediately buffing it all off! If it's a decent wax/polish you should be able to leave it on the car for hours "direct sunlight is an exception to this rule" before buffing it to a deep lustre & shine!

Just to add that if i were you & enjoyed "topping up" your polishes etc i would recommend Autoglym superglym polish!!! it's thin enough to use as a spray on polish, doesn't produce hardly any white powder/dust, is really easy to apply & buff & leaves a really good finish IMO. It's a trade polish but fairly easy to get hold of all the same! I'll bring some to the next meet along with a few other product if you like & then anyone there can see for themselves what different finishes can be acheived!

Hope this helps & to reiterate that the above is "just my opinion"

Regards......

I think you're getting LSPs and Polishes confused I'm afraid.

You don't want to be polishing regularly as this will damage your paint over time. Most polishes are abrasives.

I really wouldn't bother with anything on top of the colli, just a spritz of last touch or similar to dry and remove water marks with an MF drying cloth.

cheers darren, look forward to it

like i said the autoglym spray wax i use is quick and easy to use and its a case of one spray over the top of the car(or one spray per panel) and a quick wipe over with a MF all this after ive already dried the car and this then removes any left over water marks and puts a thin coat of wax on it at the same time and not costing me any extra time