EPC and Cruise/Brake Switch Malfunction?

[16V]

I bought this U281 DTC reader and got the 16955 error code. What's really the problem? The car and brake lights are working, will I damage anything by continue driving? Is this switch most likey to be loose or broken? Is it easy to switch? After switching to a new one, or putting the loose one back? Will I have to reset the fault code? I bought a U281 reader just because of this! I figure other codes will emerge in the future!

[VRStu]

I bought this U281 DTC reader and got the 16955 error code. What's really the problem? The car and brake lights are working, will I damage anything by continue driving? Is this switch most likey to be loose or broken? Is it easy to switch? After switching to a new one, or putting the loose one back? Will I have to reset the fault code? I bought a U281 reader just because of this! I figure other codes will emerge in the future!

Your fault translates to -

16955/P0571/001393 - Brake Switch (F): Implausible Signal

Most dealers will stock them and they are cheap.

[16V]

So what does that mean?

[fordfan]

It means that the ECU is getting a signal or a series of contradictory signals from the brake light switch that don't make sense. The brake light switch isn't just there for the brake lights, it has other pins on it that output to the ECU. You will need to replace the switch, it is around £6.75 + VAT and should take a garage no more than around 40 minutes to replace. You could reset the codes or leave them, if you leave them the fault may be down graded to intermittent and the light will go out after a while, but the fault will stay in the memory until it is erased.

[16V]

Ok.

[16V]

How complicated is this change of the brake light Switch? Have I bought the rice piece here?

I have the hanes book, but I don't really get it. Do I have to remove the lower facia panels? Is there any pic how this thing is really fitted?

[Babs]

yes, that's it!

and the old swith should turn a quarter of turn, then pop out. pull the connector off it, put it on the new switch and quarter of a turn back, and it's all sorted

no way should it take anything like 40 mins to do!

[VRStu]

Some instructions on how to remove the lower panel here -

Fabia-vrs.com - Cruise Control Retrofit Guide

[16V]

Thank you guys, I will try to do this tomorrow! I'm totally retarded here, but do I have to take away the steering wheel and more panels to finally get access to the lower tim panel and its screws (that I assume is facing the shin bones while driving)?

I went into this link, but it scares me if I have to work with the airbag etc...

Here's from Haynes:

[westewoo]

i changed mine only last week, and all i did was remone the torx screws in the pannel directly above the pedals, pull it down gentally from the top, and there should be enough room to get your arm through the gap, and relase the plug by squeezing the wedge in on the plug, and pull it off, and then grab the switch, twist it 90, and it will come out in your hand. i was a very easy job to do

[fordfan]

You only have to remove the panel that contains the light switch.

[16V]

Great!!! Pew!!!

I will give a report in three hours!!!

/Marc

[VRStu]

Yeah that is a bit of a major strip down. Remember the proper way to remove the light switch and also that there is a screw behind the trim that sits below the dash pod.

[16V]

Done! Took away about 6 screws, bended the lower black panel that was very flexibel compared to ordinary plastic. I got a rather free space to work with. Felt a bit primitive to bend that much, but nothing broke so I figure it was ok. Two metal clips fell down, that I don't know where they came from, nor do I care. I was able to screw back all screws without any malfunction. So I pretend these small clips or whatever you call them don't exists!

Took away the contact by pushing in the wedges, then turned the switch 90 ° contraclockwise I think. Put the contact in the new switch, and pressed it down the bottom of the hole with the small openings correlating to the plastic lumps on the switch. Turned it 90 ° clockwise and it said click! I think the new switch did fit as good as the old one? Made the procedure another, turned it about 90 ° and it said click. But it was a bit loose. Tried it again, same result. But since the diameter where it sits is only about 1 cm, and it's a rather thin metal plate and the rest of the switch thing is rather big I assume you cant expect too much can you?

But the EPC light didn't go off, so I used the U281 gadget to turn of the damn thing. How do I know this works properly now? I'm also still confused by how this was really a problem since everything worked?

Tnx again from a rainy cold Sweden, you guys are the best!

/Marc

[VRStu]

Did you buy your new switch from a VAG dealer?

[16V]

Yes I did! Skoda and VAG dealer are the same in Sweden. He checked my car id before getting the switch. When I say loose, I mean when I grip the thing and pull it sidways it moves half a centimeter give or take in each direction. If you pull it, or push it, there are no play at all.

[rum4mo]

If I am reading this correctly, after you fitted the new switch you still had a fault - but the original fault would still be logged so you would need to clear it using VAS or VAG-COM or ? Or, do these switches not come from the dealer with the plunger fully extended - and it is only after the brake pedal has been operated that the plunger "adjusts" itself. It is a long time since I changed one so I might be getting confused between VAG and Ford etc. I assume that you have now checked that your rear brake lights "come on" when the pedal is pressed.

If you are really concerned, I think that the two metal spring clips will have come out of two positions where there is a rectangular hole - VAG use this method to fix trim together - the clips fit into the holes and the trim panel will have a plastic wedge that gets pressed into the metal clip - to fix the two trim parts together - you might hear more creaks than usual now that you have left them out.

These brake light switches do fail on many VAG cars - not just Skoda - they are used in many models.

[16V]

I don't know if I still have the fault, the EPC light was still there after putting the new switch in place. Can I find the fault still despite the EPC light is gone now? I can check that tomorrow.

"The U281 VW/Audi Code Reader It will Erase or Reset the trouble light."

Hmm, so the fault may still be there?

The confusing thing for me was that everything was working ok despite the lamp was on. I got the error code saying this switch was malfunctioning but my rear brake lights was functioning correctly.

Talk, like you talk to a child here, because honestly, I'm clueless.

[16V]

I put in the reader U281 yesterday, and no error codes! I'm clear now?

Is it possible to put the EPC light and still have the error code?

Cheers Marc

[pezlad]

I would just like to say thank toy to everyone who has posted regarding this problem, i had same fault on my occy 2004 vrs, i took the switch out gave it a clean and refitted it, it is all working as normal now so once again i thank you all.

[16V]

Cool! So maybe mine needed a cleaning only as well? Doesn't matter any longer. It was a cheap thing to buy.

[rum4mo]

I would just like to say thank toy to everyone who has posted regarding this problem, i had same fault on my occy 2004 vrs, i took the switch out gave it a clean and refitted it, it is all working as normal now so once again i thank you all.

That's strange, brake switch failure has been a VAG weakness for years and years so I would not waste time trying to get a few months out of a failing one if I were you, remember this nasty little thing could cost you a shunt - or worse if it fails again as your brake lights will not be getting switched on while it is failing. I know that no one is saying that the latest spec/model of switches will never fail - but you are re-usuing one from a build standard that has already proved to be faulty. I hope our paths never cross - that is one scary money saving exercise!

[pezlad]

Well looks like i spoke to soon came down this morning to find brake lights had been on all night so i have now fitted a new one it cost me £8 from skoda dealer and took about two minutes to fit it really is an easy job to do.

[Gogboy]

I've replaced this switch with a genuine skoda part, but am still getting the 16955 fault code after resetting it with my u281 reader. I've also got 17549 and 16556, so I'm wondering if something else is afoot? The faults are on an 02 fabia estate, 1.4 mpi, AQW engine.

Going to try a new map sensor, check all hoses and remove the brake switch to test.

Any advice would be brilliant!

[Tech1e]

Are the bulbs ok? It logs the same fault code if both bulbs have blown.