Contrary to popular belief, the Halfrauds, (Halfords) alloy repair kit is just the ticket when it comes to refreshing a set of 4 old alloys.

Unfortunately my Fabia is burdened with Steels/Hub Caps!;

Fortunately someone gave me a set of second hand alloys;

Unfortunately they were scuffed and look very used;

Fortunately I decided to fix them, hence this guide.

I felt that before and after shots are all that's necessary. Also I have learned a few things the hard way which I think are worth passing on for anyone who's going to brave it on theirs.

So, 4x VW Golf MK3 alloys (in my case), 1x Halfords Alloy Repair Kit, Water in a bowl and and somewhere for spraying.

This guide is based on the alloys being removed from your vehicle first. If you don't wish to please make sure you cover up any relevant bodywork and tyre PRIOR to spraying!

• First thing you must do is prime the alloys. Use the provided sandpaper and make sure you wet it before you use it! The purpose is to go over the areas you intend to fill (scuffs, scrapes etc). I personally went over the whole wheel just to clean it all up and make a good substrate for the finish.
  
• Then you must get your special plasticy filly stuff! Squeeze this wherever you have scuffs and use your finger to smooth it over (lightly). Try and keep the blob just over the scuff. Immediately spray the fixer over the top and wait for 5 mins. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE PROVIDED SURGICAL GLOVES.
  
• Once dry use another sheet of wet sandpaper to bring your hardened blobs back down to the original level. The more time you spend doing this the better result you will achieve. Take your time and keep feeling for any bumps. The area you have sanded down should feel 100% smooth. If not, keep sanding!
  
• Finally, when the wheel is done, make sure you clean the wheel down. I started by using kitchen towel soaked in water. Then dry. Then use the provided alcoholic wipes to prepare it for spraying.
  
• This is the fun bit. You will need 2 coats. COVER THE VALVE WITH MASKING TAPE. Apply the first coat lightly (15-20cm from the alloy). Turn the alloy 180 degrees and apply the second but this time a little heavier. If you have the alloys on the car, move it forward a little! Alternatively you can jack the car up per-tyre and just spin it. Make sure you always move the can while spraying to prevent dripping/paint dribble.
  
• Wait 1 hr and viola. See my photos for examples!

A completed rim!

If someone can answer me some questions?

• As these were VW alloys I have VW centre caps. Where can I obtain Skoda ones?
  
• Two of the alloy valves have small needles inside them when I've removed the dust cap. Two don't. Is that intentional or do I need to buy 2 new valves?
  
• Can I use the bolts from my existing steelies on my alloys or will I need some new ons?

Very nice clean job.

Local skoda dealer for the caps, they are not that expensive.

When the tyres fitter fits new tyres, its good practice to fit complete new valves, so dont worry about those.

You may need new bolts, it depends on the bolt/wheel combo.

top job:thumbup:

Thanks guys!

Mannyo, thanks for those answers! Now I've finished this with the kit, do I need to buy and spray a final laquer layer or is this not necessary? It wasn't mentioned or included in the repair kit but I'm curious!!

I tried to do mine but it didn't turn out as good as I'd like. I didn't use these kits though but just cans of primer and alloy wheel paint. I am beginning to think the only option left for me is a professional refurb, but that costs about at least £200 :( I would probably go for either white or black to be different.

I am guessing this kit wouldn't be so good with alloys where paint is flaking and/or cracked.

As for lacquer, when I did it with mine I found it was quite difficult to apply, and would tend to sag. If you're happy with them as they are I'd leave them personally.

Laquer is a must otherwise brake dust will eat into the (unsealed) paint making them look tatty in no time.

It will however make the wheels a little darker.

HTH

Jonboy,

I just spotted something, the balance weights on your refurbished wheel. You really should have removed those before your started. When you go the tyre fitters, the first thing they will do, along with the valve, is remove those weights and this will reveal the original wheel/paint underneath. Chances of those weights being in the correct place for new tyres is virtually zero.

you will need proper alloy wheel nuts.

wheel nuts for use with normal wheels can come loose.

Bugger...in two respects!

Angry Dog: They said the nuts I had were absolutely fine so he reused them. Am I going to be in some trouble??

Manny: Guess what, I did them this morning and then they did it the weights came off and I have an annoying blimmin area of original alloy. Boo hooooo! I'm going to just give them one final spray over on the car me thinks.

Gizmo: Can you recommend any particular laquer?

Surely if they get too filthy I can just respray them anyway? Hrm!

Check the taper on the bolt (the bit that actually grabs the wheel). This can be tapered or conical.

The one's you have for steel wheels are probably tapered and the one's your wheels need are probably conical. It may also damage the wheels driving with incorrect bolts so I would get it sorted ASAP. Look at where the seat on the bolt sits inside the wheel,

Oh nooooooo! Well they didn't say anything at the fitters? Surely they know what they're doing? Also, one of my friends went for a Steel->Alloy conversion to them last week and they told her she needed new bolts. Also, this may sound stupid but I've never removed a tyre nut, let alone a tyre....help!!!

Happy new year. It's not too difficult to change a tyre. Handbrake on, first gear. First slacken the bolts (do not remove them at this stage - you want them so you can undo them with ease when you jack the car up), jack car up, undo bolts. Try hold the wheel to prevent it falling off when removing final bolt, so you can take it off ina controlled manner. Doing this at home will be good practice for if you have a tyre go, and need to change it in nasty weather.

The wheel will pull off. It's probably best to take the entire wheel off so you can get a good look inside the seat on the wheel and look at the seat on the bolts themselves. The bolts shouldn't be too expensive, if the bolts you have now screw in tight, all you need is same length and thread size bolts with a different taper, I dare-say the local Skoda dealer should have plenty to hand and be cheap enough. I would advise against driving if the wheel bolts appear unsuitable.

If you do find the bolts you have are unsuitable, when fitting the new one's apply a little copper grease to the threads. This will help stop the bolts seizing.

You are supposed to tighten the wheel bolts to a certain torque wrench setting so they don't work themselves loose. For a cheap one, this one does everything you need Torque Wrench - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys but doing them hand tight and a little bit more with a wheel brace should make them tight enough.

Same procedure when putting wheel back on. Hold wheel and align with holes, I generally go for the bolt hole at the highest point and hand tighten that. You're supposed to then do the opposite one to that and then do the others. Hand tighten, release car to ground, then tighten more.

As for them knowing what they're doing, better to be safe than sorry and ensure that *you* know it's safe. Incorrect bolt seat type can lead to damage to the wheel and/or the bolts working loose.

Gizmo: Can you recommend any particular laquer?

Surely if they get too filthy I can just respray them anyway? Hrm!

I use the same brand lacquer as the paint - so if you use Halfrauds paint, use their lacquer.

Well yes you could just repaint them every few months, but why would you want all the hassle?

Can I take out a single bolt, photo it and get you to assess whether it's suitable? Happy new year!

Not really, you need to match the pitch of the wheel to the bolt.

How do I do that?

just get some VW alloy wheel nuts

Right, I went back for my wheel evaluation (after 30 miles). I said everything you told me to them and they said - no no the bolts are just fine. Don't worry. When he was tightening them he was holding a front wheel and pulling it around. He said it seems to be a tiny bit loose and my 'bushes' might be worn and maybe need them replacing.

Not wanting to look like an ignoramous I nodded and pretended I knew what he was banging on about. I don't though! Can somebody explain?

Thanks

Jon

Sounds to me he maybe trying to get some extra work out of you, he can prob tell your not confident with car mechanics so i would get another opinion before you let him change the bushes.

Wheels look spot on mate! Wish i was brave enough to tackle mine!

I would 100% lacquer them, they will look much more original if you do.