hmm, that's me... i'll see if i can dig up some photos of the engine before and after it blew up:O

my advice is dont bother unless you have an endless supply of spare engines and money

I am glad someone agrees:thumbup:. I have both tuned and killed the 1.4 3 potter.

Its just not as solid as the 1.9 for some reason.

it's an ally block and they suffer from crank whip when then get strained too far which eventually leads to the main bearers beaking away and the rest is history!!!

dont get me wrong, the 1.4 tdi is a cracking engine and works really well, in the lupo it's great fun!!! such a small car with a torquey little engine

Hi T Tom,

Crank whip - does that have anything to do with the balancer shaft. I know the firing sequence is 1 -2-3 which seems unbalanced. I have found references to the block being made of grey cast iron which is same as 1.9 tdi. Does the 1.4 tdi have an ally head which is different o 1.9 tdi?

Thanks for your advice

Ian

it's an ally block and they suffer from crank whip when then get strained too far which eventually leads to the main bearers beaking away and the rest is history!!!

dont get me wrong, the 1.4 tdi is a cracking engine and works really well, in the lupo it's great fun!!! such a small car with a torquey little engine

the block is deffo ally, and the head is some sort of magnesium/silicon based aluminium alloy..

when i say crank whip i mean that the crankshaft flexes when it's put under load (it's a nodular cast iron crank), and this puts loads of strain on the bearings/block.

It would help if someone knew of the technical specification of the 1.4 tdi pd engine.

Could anyone post a link plse.

Iam quite concerned about crank whip and bearing/ bottom end strength

Here is a quote from Diesel Engine Reference Book p537 :

"Figure 22.4 shows the Volkswagen 1.9L TDI diesel engine8'1................bucket tappets. The axis of the intake and exhaust valves are

parallel to the cylinder axis. A port deactivation device with

throttle flaps is installed between the intake port flange and the

he basic design is relatively simple,

exhibiting the following design features: cast iron engine block,

one-piece side-flow 2-valve aluminum cylinder head, single

overheadcamshaft

So it looks like the 1.9 tdi engine head is aluminium also. In terms of crank whip would it h\overcome this if the bottom end was balanced?

Cheers

the block is deffo ally, and the head is some sort of magnesium/silicon based aluminium alloy..

when i say crank whip i mean that the crankshaft flexes when it's put under load (it's a nodular cast iron crank), and this puts loads of strain on the bearings/block.

Ally block on the 1.4, the 1.9 is pig iron I think

Id personally sell your car and put all the money into buying a VRS, it will be much easier to sell on and insure.

Just my opinion tho. It does sound like an interesting projest however

Given your budget is £6k and your wanting 150bhp+ why not buy a std Golf GT TDI 150 with 100k on it?

It will be vastly cheaper to insure than the highly modified 1.4TDI & so much more reliable.

Thinking about it your attempting to achieve 107bhp/ltr up from a 57bhp/ltr thats a HUGE increase & to be totally frank pointless as A insurance may make it uninsurable B it will be impossible to sell C Unreliable D if you want a fast car buy one in the first case - i.e. buy a 3.8 M5 and run that it might even b cheaper to insure than this missfit your trying to build.

Id personally sell your car and put all the money into buying a VRS, it will be much easier to sell on and insure.

Just my opinion tho. It does sound like an interesting projest however

Exactly or a Golf GT TDI 150/Leon Cupra TDI.

Also why would you want to increase the not pleasant noise of a TDI when you can buy a high revving petrol for that money which will be cheaper to run due to reliability & lower insurance & vastly less depreciation

Exactly or a Golf GT TDI 150/Leon Cupra TDI.

Also why would you want to increase the not pleasant noise of a TDI when you can buy a high revving petrol for that money which will be cheaper to run due to reliability & lower insurance & vastly less depreciation

See his post number 6:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/maintenance-performance/1-4-tdi-tuning-past-phase-1-remap-tuning-box/97718/#post1126255

Hi,

Thanks for the posts.

A mkiv golf tdi pd150 uses all of my budget and a leon cupra tdi is beyond budget, fabia vrs is within budget plus remap - but past 160bhp/ 280 lb ft I think a front mounted intercooler is mandatory. Anyway, the idea is to do it as an interest.

Petrols are a bit old skool, and in terms of technology plain outdated.

Anyhow, Iam a dieselhead and have been since 1989.

Iam concerned about the crankcase flexing and forum users that have blown up the 3 pot.

I will use Allard's experience to guide me in terms of the limitations.

Cheers

Exactly or a Golf GT TDI 150/Leon Cupra TDI.

Also why would you want to increase the not pleasant noise of a TDI when you can buy a high revving petrol for that money which will be cheaper to run due to reliability & lower insurance & vastly less depreciation

Does the 1.4 have an ally block whereas the 1.9 is cast iron? That might limit the amount of tuning potential.

Chris

Good point, tbh I don't know does anyone else?

Re power calculation - yes it was a bit heath robinson.

Turbo is not vnt as has wastegate

I think the 1.4 TDI has a cast iron block but an alloy head - the 1.2TDI from the Lupo 3L has an alloy block + head.

hows your project coming on ? - i'm very interested as i'm looking to start a project in about 6 months time using either a 3L or 1.4TDI sport as the base,the name of the game being superlight !

I think the 1.4 TDI has a cast iron block but an alloy head - the 1.2TDI from the Lupo 3L has an alloy block + head.

hows your project coming on ? - i'm very interested as i'm looking to start a project in about 6 months time using either a 3L or 1.4TDI sport as the base,the name of the game being superlight !

I'd suggest Tom is right about the alloy block.

He has done a lot with the smaller cars and as he himself said popped these engines. When you get to that stage you get to work out what the issues are.

Hi,

Thanks for the posts.

A mkiv golf tdi pd150 uses all of my budget and a leon cupra tdi is beyond budget, fabia vrs is within budget plus remap - but past 160bhp/ 280 lb ft I think a front mounted intercooler is mandatory. Anyway, the idea is to do it as an interest.

Petrols are a bit old skool, and in terms of technology plain outdated.

Anyhow, Iam a dieselhead and have been since 1989.

Iam concerned about the crankcase flexing and forum users that have blown up the 3 pot.

I will use Allard's experience to guide me in terms of the limitations.

Cheers

Your budget is £4-6k? If so there are plenty of Mk4 Golf Gt TDI 150's in that range and also one Leon Cupra TDI.

In fact you could opt for the cheapest GT TDI 150 and chip that then your going to have not far off 210bhp-220bhp. Much better.

Failing that why not buy a Saab/VX 3.0 V6 TID 185bhp as std - with all the toys youd ever want.

Hi Welshy,

The more toys the more weight and as this might end up as a track day car lightness aids handling and improves power/ weight ratio. Also, in the next 2 years ish I might be able to afford something like 330d/ 335d bmw.

M3/ M5 BMW 20 mpg no thanks!

MK4 golf not known for the best chassis/ handling and would have no cash to improve.

Leon Cupra TDI is a cat c/d car at that price and would have little cash left to make changes.

The idea is to have a project and work out what can and can't be done and I like the idea of a sleeper

Have you looked at the link HERE to talon sports metro track car this is similar to what iam aiming for

Cheers

What about an engine from a LUPO GTI.

Ok so the fuel economy isn't fantastic, but the potential would be much greater.

Hi,

No offence but why would a dieselhead by a petrol engined car.

cheers

What about an engine from a LUPO GTI.

Ok so the fuel economy isn't fantastic, but the potential would be much greater.

Hi, did anyone see the jan 08 article in performance tuner titled, 'the cold, hard, facts' about using freezing/ cryogenics too harden components. It looks a bit whacky races but for a minimum of 75 quid per treatment when extra strength is needed and nobody is supplying modified parts it could be the answer.

The website is HERE I would appreciate sensible comments

Cheers

hmm, that's me... i'll see if i can dig up some photos of the engine before and after it blew up:O

my advice is dont bother unless you have an endless supply of spare engines and money

Hi, did anyone see the jan 08 article in performance tuner titled, 'the cold, hard, facts' about using freezing/ cryogenics too harden components. It looks a bit whacky races but for a minimum of 75 quid per treatment when extra strength is needed and nobody is supplying modified parts it could be the answer.

The website is HERE I would appreciate sensible comments

Cheers

I'm more interested in what Allards and others think of the 1.4.

I think the key to it might be to expand its rev range rather than go torque crazy.

Decatted, with free flowing breathing, I'd wonder what RPM, even a VNT15 or K39 might spool at.

Did you get anywhere investigating exhaust manifold butchery?

J.

Hi,

In the current position I expect to see allard's late april when i will talk to them about the whole project and in particular adapted manifold for 1749 turbo versus hybrid gt15, crank flex etc

Cheers

QUOTE=vindaloo;1167793]I'm more interested in what Allards and others think of the 1.4.

I think the key to it might be to expand its rev range rather than go torque crazy.

Decatted, with free flowing breathing, I'd wonder what RPM, even a VNT15 or K39 might spool at.

Did you get anywhere investigating exhaust manifold butchery?

J.

Tom,

So Iam thinking about asking allards about removing the crank and having nitrac treatment detailed HERE in an attempt to strengthen it.

I would really appreciate your thoughts

Cheers

the block is deffo ally, and the head is some sort of magnesium/silicon based aluminium alloy..

when i say crank whip i mean that the crankshaft flexes when it's put under load (it's a nodular cast iron crank), and this puts loads of strain on the bearings/block.