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Suspension rattle


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As with all suspension rattles, it is usually hard to diagnose where it's coming from, but just throwing this into the forum to see what other people have experienced at highish miles (I'm at 132k now).

Noticeable at low speed, uneven surface, cobbled streets, or expansion joints, or similar, at <10 mph.

Work completed in the last 30k miles (and I'm not saying any of these might not have come back - it's possible of course!):

- new shocks (Bilsteins)

- new springs

- new tie-rods (some unknown brand, supplied by VAG specialist and fitted, re-tracked)

- new upper control arms (Febi)

 

So lower arms are still original, as are the CV joints, ARB, ARB bushes, ARB drop links too.

It sounds almost like a spring failure (have not looked yet) but last time I had that problem, it was only apparent at normal cruising speed on A/B roads with uneven surface, not at very low speed.

 

Not knowing the life expectancy of the bits I haven't changed, I can't really judge if they are likely to be the culprit, so if anyone has done these, and if you remember the mileage/symptoms, please do let me know.

 

As the car is not pulling left or right, I doubt it's something major like a collapsed ball joint, more likely ARB link or ARB bush, but need to confirm.

Also, I can "feel" the rattle when I hear it through the steering wheel.

 

Thanks

Edited by oh_superb
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The last part resonates with me.mine also making this 'tapping' noise and can be felt through the steering wheel.it doesnt manifest over large undulations or potholes rather when going through small and sharp road patches and cateyes will always generate corresponding tapping noise so long my speed is below 30.i suspect the steering rack bush or worse the rack itself is shot

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I'd look at the drop links first - they do get a bit of a hammering.  Had to do them on my B5 Passat and an easy enough job; the noise reduction was fab.

 

Gaz

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It is only apparent at very low speed, over small bumps or cracks in road. Perhaps worse on lock than straight. Drop links are easy enough and cheap enough to change just need to tighten them with wheel on the ground.

I really hope it's not the rack. Probably outside my DIY skill set or determination to do it as it sounds messy and expensive too. As long as it doesn't get worse I can live with it.

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Has anyone changed the lower control arms on here?  Does the subframe need to be lowered to remove the lower control arms?  That bit scares me.  But I saw a youtube video of a guy doing it without having to lower the subframe, which contradicts what I read on a Passat forum a long time ago… Baffled.

My CV boots and brake hoses came up as advisories on the MOT so I am tempted to basically "get down" and while I'm at it change the lower arms (at 132k miles, they are surely past their best even if not the knocking culprit in this case - mind you they are not cheap), and change the ARB drop links too.  And why not change the ARB bushes too while the drop links are disconnected too?

I think I'll go with Febi on all parts.

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Pretty sure I had to drop the subframe a little when I changed the lower arm on my Passat.  But IIRC it was only a little and just enough to allow the inboard bolt to clear a chassis member.  Wasn't a biggie.

 

Mine were creaking rather than knocking.  A squirt of WD40 cured it....for about 200 yards  :dull:  so new arms it was.  Don't think you can go wrong with Febi.

 

Gaz

 

Edit: Well I'm blowed, just found my thread over on UKP:

http://www.ukpassats.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14707&p=120658#p120658

 

June 2009 - no wonder my memory's a bit dim on it  :notme:  - I was looking to see what make I bought coz the Pastie's around 180k now and the arm's still good (haven't owned it for about three years now, but still look after it), but I'm afraid I didn't keep a note. G

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Thanks Gaz.

I have a slight knock not a creak so.....

After much deliberation (mostly talking to myself and confusing the mrs) I decided to replace the top mounts first. I forgot about changing them when I switched to the Bilstein shocks... I bought a pair of Febi ones, £25 for the pair and a new sprint compressor. That should happen next weekend. If it doesn't cure it, I'll proceed to ARB bushes. If still bad change drop links. If it still knocks then change rear lower arms.

I'll post my findings! Gotta love the B5 platform.

Edited by oh_superb
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Dont blame it on the b5.my previous mazda also had this loud clanking sound that just wont go away even after going thru intensive investigation one part after another,until i finally sold it off.still,one heck of a driver's car that

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