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Flywheel replacement cost and what choices


Meow

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I've been passing on third partys' comments about probable flywheel issues, several times now. I had the recent MOT done at the dealer - and while not necessairly an MOT issue, no mention of it on the accompanying health check, either.

 

I'm sure they'll be keen to diagnose it as replacement needed now they can charge direct to me as a paying customer. :dull:

 

I might take it to a cheaper area, next to where my soundproofing people will be able to pop along when the engine is out and put in their best material ( used on LandRovers ) on my firewall, something they couldn't do before with the engine in.

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The engine is not removed for DMF replacement, just the transmission. I really doubt you'll need soundproofing after it is replaced. If you are worried about tyre noise, it's worth checking what tyres are fitted. Some tyres are much noisier than others.

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With my ear issues I need everything I can get - and I am actually quite desperate.

 

The older CR140 is not refined, sorry fans, but it isn't. Plus Skoda simply do not put in enough between engine bay and passenger compartment.

 

I thought, with the engine out at the Skoda garage, they ( Noise Killer ) would have the chance to put in stuff on that wall. It surprises me that you say the engine doesn't have to come out. From talking to garages, the impression I got as that it does. I wonder if they make you think this to partly justify the high cost. I don't know what to think really.

 

Yes I pay great attention to tyres ( Goodyear Eagle F1 summer and Ultragrip winter ) and am even thinking about fitting Spectrum wheels  to get away from low profile 45 ratio tyres on 17 inch Laurel wheels to the 16 inch Spectrum's and 55 ratio tyres. Its an official aftermarket option, I just found out, so will be fine.

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It must be distressing to be so unhappy with the vehicle. Rather than spend the money on new wheels and tyres which may or may not make it better for you, is it worth considering cutting your losses and selling it and buying another Merc?

Probably not financially but for peace of mind/lack of stress

As an aside, my 170 CR motor is as refined in the cabin above walking pace as the V6 Tdi one in my 2009 Audi A4 and has similar road noise. It is a little more intrusive at idle,but not hugely

Edited by Bristolf2b
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Well it is distressing and I'm in it a lot.

 

Its a difficult decision, new/nearly new v's rehabilitate old car.

 

A new or nearly new car is a lot of money. I guess my high mileage Superb isn't really worth much and if I do have the issues I suspect I ought to put those right before selling , or assume they will be factored into what low price I would get. I am minded for now, to try to rehabilitate my current car, at a cost of a about two and half grand. It then should be good for a long time after that.

 

I just hope it would be good enough for me, otherwise I could always sell it at a half decent price then, to buy a truly quiet car. The choice includes, possibly a MkIII Superb.

 

A difficult choice. But I might be surprised after all the work is done ( flywheel, timing belt, DSG service, smaller wheels, further soundproofing )

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Ive had DMF's done in a Transit Tourneo (symptoms like slipping clutch, was in fact soggy DMF springs) and a Mondeo 130PS Tdci, which started not engaging the starter (swarf collecting on starter motor) but did have a small amount of DMF clatter too. Both cost £895 inc vat

 

The theories (and thats what they are) as to why DMF's are fitted abound

 

Torque peaks

Noise

Body boom

 

But ive driven the same car with a SMF and its been nicer to drive

 

Torque-limiting software is replacing these awful things

Edited by lichfielddriver
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There are solid engineering reasons for their fitment.

 

They're fitted to reduce NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) in the driveline. The two masses are separated by a spring which smooths out the pulses from ignition events, especially near idle. This results in smoother clutch takeup, less gearbox noise (the gears on the input shaft aren't being clattered around by vibration from the engine). It probably reduces stresses on the crankshaft too by damping the torque reaction from the gearbox when the clutch is engaged.

 

A DMF can't limit torque peaks from the engine - at best it might reduce the impact during sudden clutch engagement.

 

Body boom is due to vibration, so less vibration = less boom.

 

Torque limiting software is not replacing DMFs. It's there to allow lighter gearboxes to be fitted without getting broken.

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If the CR140 isn't refined enough for you I'd suggest you cut your losses and move onto a more premium / expensive manufacturer rather than spending serious money on your current car.

 

A new DMF will make things quieter, but not more refined.

 

If you are intent on keeping the Superb your priority has to be renewing the DMF. Additional sound proofing isn't going to stop the DMF from eating itself and the gearbox.

Edited by silver1011
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Clearly DMF needs replacing anyway

 

However can I concentrate on the sound proofing

 

1) It's difficult and potentially unsafe to add more soundproofing between the bulkhead and the engine due to the hot temperatures (exhaust, DPF etc...)

 

2) The best place to soundproof might be inside the car but you can't really use thick sound deadening material as it effects the fit of the carpet etc. When I built a kit car a few decades ago I had major sound proofing problems but found thin bitumen pads to be VERY effective (only 2mm thick!) . I covered everything - bulkhead, transmission tunnel, side panels, floors, door skins - this made a huge difference and turned an unrefined noisy (but still fun) vehicle into a surprisingly refined cruise mobile that I used for touring Europe 

 

Closest I can see online:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CLS89UG?psc=1

 

3) OR Buy a petrol - mine is silent at tickover!

Edited by bigjohn
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