BillyJim

There are several ways to check if it’s Amundsen or Columbus, so here’s just a couple... Select Media > Source. If you have an option of ‘Jukebox’ then it’s Columbus as that’s the music/video storage partition of the internal HDD (the same HDD that also stores the map data). Alternatively remove all SD cards and if you still have mapping in the Navigation mode and can select a destination then, again, you have Columbus.

I played around with this a few years ago and concluded the MIB OS supports/recognises only one device per port..

You're not alone. I have the same problem and was at the dealership a few months ago for the DSG service so had one of the tech guys take a quick look to ensure it was not something I'd done. After confirming for himself that it wasn't working he had a grope under the rear to confirm the antenna wasn't damaged or missing and reckoned it had most likely gone out of calibration and a software reset would probably cure it. As it wasn't a priority for me I said I'd leave it until it's back in for the 5th year service in August.

@ScoutAngell so yeah, my mistake, it probably is just 16 GB

As mentioned, if your device's navigation only functions when a navigation SD Card is present then you have Amundsen. The apparent 16 GB card should actually be a 32 GB card. It's all to do with clusters and sectors and the way the card was originally formatted. Make a backup copy of your card then reformat it using standard settings and you should have an empty 32 GB card onto which you can download and install the latest Amundsen-specific map update.

Yes, it's called the 'jukebox'. You can transfer music and/or video files and folders from SD or USB. Select Jukebox as your media source to play the music/video.

Every time I start mine in the dark/twilight. It could be it only happens if light switch is set to Auto when you turn on ignition as I tend to leave the switch in the Auto position... If it hasn't already completed the cycle it stops as soon as the car moves.

Is it an intermittent or a permanent error? There are numerous possible causes. As above. The 'sensor' in question is a low power radar located behind the front grille centre plastic panel and can be affected by dirt or liquid, though this should only be temporary. It could be the radar has gone out of calibration, either through collision, grounding or, probably more likely, striking a bad pothole. This is will be a persistent error and will require specialised recalibration. It could be a module has failed or is in the process of failing in which case the module will need replacing. This may be either an intermittent or permanent error. It could be a related component fault, such as TCS, though I would expect you to see a additional warnings too. It could be a software glitch that requires a reinstall or update. In any event, other than checking that the panel is clean and dry, this is something you would be ill advised to attempt to fix yourself and you can't simply buy a new radar unit and expect it to work. If you have access to VCDS or OBD II or similar you should be able to check for error codes. If the fault persists then it's a visit to the workshop.

I assume you mean the paddles. They're an optional extra. All DSG Superb have gear lever nudge. Pull back to enter sport and again to exit sport. Sport holds a gear for longer. Push to the left for manual gear selection. Flick forward to go up a gear, flick back to go down a gear (the opposite to BMW).

Perhaps I'm just being nit-picking here but it's a common fallacy and is actually false. ABS (Anti-Blockier System) enables steering to be maintained by allowing the steered wheels to rotate when otherwise they would lock up (skid). Non-rotating wheels will always travel in a straight line no matter which way they're pointing. Maximum braking efficiency is actually obtained with all the wheels fully locked up as it offers the highest constant friction between the tyre and road surface. ABS was developed because in emergency panic braking many/most driver's don't think to take their foot off the brake, thus regain steering to avoid an obstruction or steer around the bend they approached too fast, and inevitably skid straight and headlong into a collision or off the road - then claim the steering didn't work. Slightly back on topic and not intending to blow my own trumpet, nor castigate the OP, though I agree it was more a rant than a thought through argument, I'm a retired Class 1 Police Traffic Officer, was a Collision Investigator (yes, Mr Clarkson, the bad guy who would close your road for hours) and a Collision Reduction Officer (friendly title for the bar steward with the LTI 20-20 laser), so driving cars with a reasonable high performance has always been my thing. In over 4 years of driving a Superb III equipped with all the toys I've only ever had the emergency braking apply once, as posted in the 280 thread many many moons ago, when a race-trim Jaguar pulled out directly in front of me without any indication and at a much slower speed than the 150 mph I was doing at the time - and it was not to overtake, just blind stupidity. Probably no surprise this was on the Autobahn soon after I passed the Nurburgring exit. Putting it mildly I wasn't impressed with the driver but was impressed that the Front Assist responded by applying the brakes a split second before I was able to hit the brake pedal. ACC was on and active at the time, set to the maximum 100 mph. Other than on that one occasion I've had the red Front Assist warning appear on many occasions but never been in a situation where the car has needed to perform any automated braking. To be fair at home I seldom use our motorways which means I also seldom use ACC but I also do thousands of miles a year across Western Europe (mostly in Germany) where I found ACC to be a real boon. Prior to this ACC equipped car I drove many cars with standard cruise control and/or speed limiters and wouldn't willingly want to go back to them, but that's my personal opinion though it's shared by many of my former colleagues who also have ACC. The only negative I've had with ACC was the day I picked up my brand new car and wanted to try some of these new features. On a dual carriageway there was advanced warning of a lane 1 roadworks closure and traffic was starting to slow down. Great opportunity, I thought, to try this new-to-me fangled ACC for the first time, so being in lane 1 I set the ACC to 70 mph and let the car in front determine my speed. All was well until the car in front moved early into lane 2. The radar saw an empty lane and the car rapidly accelerated - what it couldn't see was the taper of plastic cones a couple of hundred yards ahead! As for braking when overtaking on the nearside (undertaking is planting people 6' under) the system only activates if your speed is over 80 kph (50 mph) and faster than the offside vehicle. When you're familiar with it you can anticipate how/when ACC will respond and none-the-less you also get an advanced warning as it flashes up on the MFD showing an offside vehicle has been detected. A simple dab of the accelerator pedal overrides it. I've only had the take a break appear once. Usually on my trips to the continent I take a short break to stretch my legs every 90-120 minutes but on this one occasion it was overnight and I decided to drive on through to avoid the morning commuter traffic, which in Germany is damned early. It was after about three hours that the message appeared - DRIVER ALERT TAKE A BREAK - though the image of a steaming coffee cup was quite enticing! This feature can be disabled in the infotainment's Car menu. One final comment: A Police advanced driving school commentary always starts with the wording "I am driving a [make and model]. I am familiar with the controls and characteristics of this vehicle."

Your image shows your infotainment is looking for a software update. This is what appears when you insert an SD Card in Columbus that has map data - the 'software update' is actually the process of transferring map data from the card to the internal drive. The map data on the "Skoda NavigationSD Car" is NOT compatible with Columbus (and vice versa). I confirmed this with my brother's Tiguan which has the VW version of Amundsen. I therefore suspect you have Columbus and not Amundsen. Columbus equipped cars do not come with a Navigation SD Card - the maps are already preloaded, though some dealerships inadvertently do include the unusable Navigation SD card. Did you check your VIN as I suggested? Alternatively... [1] referring to the images in the Amundsen/Columbus manuals only Columbus has an eject button beside the CD/DVD drive or [2] select Media on your infotainment, select the Settings (cog wheels), then if you have a menu item 'Video (DVD) settings' you have Columbus as only Columbus supports video. I strongly suggest you confirm first whether or not you have Columbus before going any further!!! If you're happy that you've got Columbus then download the latest Columbus maps directly from the Skoda portal or use this other direct link (links courtesy of @MartiniB) NOTE: Either download is in excess of 20 GB so be patient 😅 . Once the compressed file has been downloaded and the data extracted you will have a folder called either 'HIGH12_P184_EU_2020' or 'P184_N60S5MIBH3_EU', depending on which link you've used, though they contain the same data. Now copy the three items contained in the folder - a file called metainfo2.txt and two folders called MiB1 and MiB2 - to an SD Card or USB drive. To avoid confusing the infotainment it will be best if no other files/folders are on the card/drive. If you're a Mac user like me you will need a utility to remove the hidden Mac OS files. Insert the card/drive into the relevant slot (for SD use either slot) and you should get the Software Update screen, though this may take short time. You are then given the option to install the update - the maps. The update can take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes but doesn't need to be done in one hit. So long as you leave the card/drive connected it will resume from the point you left it.

On the assumption you have Amundsen and not Columbus (If you're not certain which you have then enter your VIN in the above portal and it will tell you)... AFAIK, and I stand to be corrected, you can use any 32GB SD Card to install the maps downloaded from the above mentioned portal - it doesn't need to be an original Skoda maps card. Once placed in your car's SD slot the security bit (that's the S in SD) is set on the card and thereafter it can only be used in that car. Traffic signs appear on the infotainment navigation screen. If the map appears on the screen without a map SD Card present then you have Columbus which stores the map data on an internal SSD, in which case... You only need any 32+ GB SD Card or other USB storage device simply to transfer downloaded maps from your computer to the SSD. The security bit of an SD card is not set. If you have the map but no road signs (speed limits) displayed on the infotainment navigation screen then check that it is enabled (ticked) in the menu Navigation > Maps > Show Road Signs. If you're referring to traffic signs appearing in the MFD you will need to check if you actually have this function as it's only available as part of TSR (Traffic Sign Recognition). TSR is an optional extra when the car is built. It can also be enabled retrospectively with VCDS or similar if you have the A5 camera located on the windscreen behind the rear view mirror. If you believe you have TSR but the signs are not appearing at the top of the MFD then check it's enabled in the menu Car > Settings (cogs) > Driver Assistance > Dynamic Road Sign Display > Show In Instrument Cluster. If you don't have this menu item then you don't have TSR. P.S. It's easier for people to answer questions if we know what year and model version you have.

Most likely correct. Firstly, the radar is mounted in the centre of the grill behind a black plastic screen, not the bumper. Secondly, radar has nothing to do with Traffic Sign Recognition or Lane Assist. Those two functions use the camera to detect signs and lane markings (radar can't "see" paint!). Unfortunately it's quite likely to require a camera recalibration and/or a software update, either of which entails a return to the dealer and highly likely to be longer than just a morning visit. Don't they provide a courtesy car in Spanish dealerships?

I suspect you may be overestimating the capabilities, and purpose, of TSR. TSR is quite limited in the type of road signs it displays. It is intended as an aide-memoir for displaying the current speed limit and, optionally, to give a warning if you exceed that limit. TSR is not infallible and can become easily confused, particularly at junctions where exit roads have different speed limits, though it will correct itself after a short distance or when it detects the next limit sign. Nor will it detect dirty or obstructed signs. The TSR driver aid uses the SatNav speed limit data but is overridden if the camera detects a speed limit sign that is different to the speed data it receives from the SatNav. It will also indicate if the speed limit is conditional - during certain hours, when wet, etc, - but you'll probably only come across these on the continent. A neat trick in a 'when wet' restriction is that it displays the lower limit as the primary sign if conditions are wet but the higher limit if it's dry. TSR does not display the black & white derestricted sign in the UK as, like most countries, we have a national speed limit it will show the relevant NSL of 60 or 70 mph. Only on German Motorways and Fast Roads have I seen the MFD display the actual derestricted sign. The only non-speed limit sign I have seen TSR display is No Overtaking. You'll know that TSR is working the first time you approach road works or other temporary speed limit that is lower than the road's 'normal' speed limit. The SatNav has no data for these type of limits so you'll know it's the camera that has detected the temporary speed limit signs.

Electric windows have a detection for the fully closed/open position and this can sometimes go out of synch. An electric window reset is usually done by a couple of cycles of fully opening and fully closing the window. if that doesn’t cure it then take it to the dealer to be looked at under warranty.