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Soon to be new owner! Picking up my 2019 2.0 tsi SE L next week, and can't wait! By far the nicest car I've driven, so really looking forward to bringing this home!

Collected Yeti No3 today. Others were petrol 2wd SE's and this is a diesel 4x4 L&K so a bit different. All good so far apart from I missed a small ding which will need to be done and the main Skoda dealer missed a dangerously damaged tyre!

The "Ways you can support Briskoda" announcement post could link to trees too, I'd've thought?

I had the DSG and Haldex oil changes done at JKM in Portsmouth this week. It was fairly overdue as I think they need doing at 40k and the car is now on 55k. The gearbox changes up a lot smoother now, which I didn't expect to notice really. Following this, as I do with all my cars as some sort of initiation and health check I visited Charlie at SRR today. Results below: Now tempted to build on this with an APR or other remap..

What exactly do you mean by "tried to upload the new map version"? There's no upload procedure needed. All you need to do is unzip the download, copy the unzipped file to the SD card and put it in the machine.

Just found old thread and was suggested that all light buttons at front and rear need to be pushed in. Problem solved (what a plonker).

When I owned my Vrs245 weighed the 19" Xtreme plus the 225/35 tyre (Pirelli) they came with at work on digital electronic scales and they are 22.5kg each. The 18" aftermarket alloys and 225/40 tyres I used in the winter weighed 21.9kg for comparison.

Looks a beauty Adam. Enjoy!

With great power comes great responsibility! (Spiderman quote) So very true.

Yes, you need to use a Skoda SD card for Amundsen systems. To be on the safe side, copy everything currently on the card to your computer, so worst case if it goes wrong, you can simply copy that back and be back to where you started.

I care about statistics because they can provide me with vastly more data on any given subject than my own personal experience. Not much to do with the topic though.

If you use a towing hitch with internal stabiliser pads, such as those made by Alko or BPW then the ball should NOT be greased.

Yes, at great expense from a Skoda dealer 😳 A year old. Car’s actually well looked after for an oldie (13yrs) but different garages can’t find anything (nothing on the diagnostics).

I understand the correct oil for the 1.4 TSI engine in the UK actually is VW 508 00 as detailed in the Kodiaq Maintenance Workshop Manual, which is available to download here - In certain other countries elsewhere in the world as detailed in the Manual, the correct oil is VW 504 00. Pages 56-58 thereof detail the following:

Yes, I would definitely go with real glass too if they were available.

VW 504.00/507.00 are the figures you should be searaching on the oil can.

...mine included. I polished them last year but they get cloudy in no time. I wish there were real glass replacement lenses like there are for the Mk4 Golf.

Take PCP to get that deal and settle within 10 or 14 days - actually tell them you will settle - you still have a further 30 days I thing after that to pay.. Also push the dealer for discount - you can probably get between 5 to 10% off - in addition to the PCP deposit allowance.

As above, take all the discounts/ benefits of a PCP deal, and cancel and pay off within 14 days, plenty on here have done it.

I got a quote for a factory order from CarWow for a cash purchase, and my dealer matched it. Equivalent discount to the PCP deals, and a decent P/X price too.

New 1.5 TSI come with the sump filled with VW 508spec oil. It appears normal for dealers to fill with VW 507 5W/ 30 oil at first service. The 1.4 TSI will be VW 507 5W/30 spec oil. Be aware that no Comma oils are VW approved.

I have just topped my 1.5tsi up and the oil provided by the garage was Castrol edge professional ow-20 specifically the version that says compliant with vw508. I have been led to believe this is the oil being used when on the short service interval programme as it’s better for emissions. With no vw or similar dealer near I got it from amazon as it’s a bit of a sod to find. Hopefully somebody who knows for definite will respond

from looking myself, everything offered seems to only be on PCP deals, which means they claw back any 'discount' offered in the interest paid anything cash the prices were thousands higher

They double as cornering lights to illuminate the pavement in built areas and work when the steering is turned either right or left and go out when the steering is in the straight ahead position. Been told many times by neighbours that one of my fog lights is not working because they don't understand they are actually cornering lights.

Judging by these posts, I don't think it is: Assuming correct, that would suggest 12kg vs 13.3kg for 18" Gemini vs 19" Xtreme

A facelift tailgate is now on my prefacelift Yeti. Thank you for the help

I had a MK2 vRS estate for three years and it was a great car. I spent a lot of time & effort maintaining and modifying it and overall it was a cracking family barge. It never let us down and took us on some European road trips without any fuss at all - but I never loved the car as much as my Mk1. I respected the car for its capabilities and for how reliable it was but there was something missing, hence making the return to a Mk1.

Alright, I did the connections. The switch lights up and works fine. Thank you!

My first car was a Mini 1000 in classic "Harvest Gold", as British Leyland called it. The car below wasn't mine, but mine was identical. It ran alright, but was a bit of a rust-bucket and didn't like cold starting. I mean, really didn't like cold-starting. I learned more about cars in trying to get that little b@stard started and kept going on cold mornings than I care to remember. I bought another Mini, a 1275GT, which I had a lot of fun in, then bought a Ford Orion 1.4LX. The Orion was like driving a limo in comparison with the Mini, but wouldn't do handbrake turns, which my 1275GT did exquisitely. Mine was white, not silver, but you get the idea. That two-tone paintwork made it look at bit like the 1.6i Ghia if you squinted hard, which made it cool. 😄 It was a fine car with a massive boot, but it suffered from leaking valve stem oil seals, which meant a lot of smoke on start-up. After that, it was a Rover 420SLi, which with Rover's 2.0L twin-cam 16V engine felt like it went like a rocket at the time. I adored that car, fake wooden trim and all This was a car that benefited considerably from Honda's input to Rover. Then I had a Seat Ibiza SXE TDi, which was very red, and was lovely until my wife stuffed it into the back of some poor sod in an Audi. After that came another Ibiza, a TDi 110 Sport like the one below, which I pre-ordered and bought new. Around this time, we each had a car, so it was a bit confusing as to who owned what, as we chopped and changed a bit as to who drove which car. Anyway, after a wastegate fail on the 110 Ibiza, with big bills looming we swapped that for another Ibiza TDI. I thought it was an FR, but it was actually a TDI 130PD Sport A very similar car to the one here. We got a stunning deal on the 110 Sport p/x and the 130 Sport purchase, which we were very happy about. The 130 Ibiza was a fabulous car until my wife wrote it off by losing control of it on a motorway when she hit a puddle at speed. After that I gave her my Mondeo and bought myself a nicer Mondeo (which I've just parted with.) She wrote off my Mondeo and found herself in a Fabia 1.2 punishment car. And now she's in her Fiesta. Literally in it, she's just gone shopping.

Pro-rata is something a lot of people seem to have trouble with.

I remember recently having to pay more for my car insurance to subsidise the fact that men crash and damage cars more than women . I won't post the countless links to threads on the subject, most backed up by official data. Just saying

Yes there are some special joints for cables to do so you can search in local market for parts so that to merge cables easier and thus do more professional work.

Welcome! That's a very nice car you have there.

And a little known race from Indianapolis that's been running for nearly 110 years...

Xds if you’ve had a brisk drive

I’ve just received my 2020 karoq 1.5 tsi dsg sportline. Fabulous car. Ride comfort is excellent - previous car karoq 1.6 tdi SEL - Sportline looks vastly better In my opinion and I prefer the sports cloth seats.

1.9tdi estate, laurin n klement tho! Heated seats!?

Cannot remember if I have already said this but wish the fuel tank was bigger ie they had downsized from 55 litres to 50 litres plus one cannot easily fill up the expansion tank like I could on the Fabia VRS and get an extra 5 litres in there. That said the fuel economy is very good ie indicated 55 mpg long term and did 60 mpg indicated to LIverpool and back so effectively over 600 mile of range in the tank. The Octavia 4 sounds like not a very great improvement, the MK 3 is over 100 lighter than the mark 2 despite being slightly bigger. Not sure what to get next, should be electric I suppose or if hybrid then the 100 hp electric Octy with 1.4 TSI again would be acceptable but I expect it will be a high retail price but let us hope the PCP are not too bad.

Yes you should. 35Nm is recommended I seem to remember. Easy fix except for the access.

Thanks all! We spent hours going round in circles trying to find out if there was a difference, I knew you'd all be able to answer 😃

You can get a new filler bottle cap: https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/products/lid-funnel-for-windscreen-washer-tank For my car, apart from getting rid of the vibrations in the front doors, I would make it feel more eager in ‘Normal’ mode. I think that both throttle and DSG gearbox have been tuned to be smoother which makes sense in a Superb but the Sportline should feel sportier as standard. I know I could put it in sports mode (or use individual mode) but it should be sportier as standard. To that end, I’d like the ability to custom tune the interior lighting for the modes (for me, green for eco, blue for normal and red for sport). These are minor points though. A great all-rounder overall.

Scroll down a bit to a hatch with pan roof and bars I did have a Megane with pan roof as a company car years ago and had Thule bars and footpack. Thule site again said normal roof but it was also fin with pan roof

If you are lucky enough like me to have TPS deal with you as a non trader then that will soon change if you ask Mr Ploppy questions like I want a service kit.

Get one of the Aircon cleaning sprays. IIRC, you run the Aircon on full, set the cleaner off in the car, then close the doors for around 15 mins. I had exactly this problem in our MKI Superb. I too only used to run the AC in the summer. Condensation builds up in the ducting pipes and mould grows in there which creates a stink when the AC is switched on. Lesson learned and I’ve kept the AC on in all our cars and never had a problem since then.

Auto folding mirrors should be standard. Apart from that, a proper LSD and yeah Golf R/Cupra power

I was under the impression that removing EGR while you still had the DPF is just gonna block up the filter far quicker as the EGR recirculates the exhaust gases so there aren't as many going to the DPF

May be the second one here to have sold up. The mt09sp and the Monkey went a couple of months back now. just not getting the use out of them to warrant having them really. All is not lost. I bought an Audi TTS for a weekend car, which seems to be getting more use so far..

So just to bring this topic full circle.... I dropped the car off at a local Indy in Reading about an hour ago to have them replace the pads. I don't have time at the moment to do them myself. I asked them to check if they needed doing as i was not confident in the statement from the dealer. I just got a call from the Indy... pads are only 50% worn and do not need replacing. 50% over 20,000 miles is reasonable and not unexpected but 85% as sliver said would have indicated erratic driving or a fault which isn't the case. So on the back of this I will collect me car and then go round to skoda and provide them with some feedback.

UK importer specifies every 4 years or 100000 miles. Skoda CZ says at 210000 km without a time limit.