KenMcD

Thanks very much for the response - just had a link sent to me for them on e-bay (should anybody else be looking, below) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMALL-Size-VW-Blank-Button-Replacement-Stickers-Decals-Seat-Eject-Missiles-Oil/182426021168?_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D0197064cb9344ceeb4368898b13538b4%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D182417460532

Thanks for the tip, have messaged him! Ken

This is a bit flippant but does anybody know where I might be able to find an ejector seat button that would fit into the bottom row of buttons, next to the tyre pressure button. I know there are more important things in life but I have a small friend who has only just got big enough to ride in the front seat of the car and it would give him a laugh. Just to be clear, I don't need it to WORK, just yet...

I got the spare tyre kit with my first Yeti and transferred it across to my second - I've had 3 punctures in the four years I've had them - two were nails in the tread, but the last one was a sidewall puncture, due to a pothole. On Skye. I had no phone signal, and we were miles from anywhere. It took me 20 minutes to change the tyre, and we managed to get the tyre replaced before we were due to drive back down to Yorkshire the next day. The outcome would have been much more miserable if I had just had a can of gunk to rely on.

Mine 2013 model had a dipped headlights light on the dash and my 2016 model doesn't. And it is irritating that you can't glance down and see whether the auto headlights have come on or not. Looking down and to the side is distracting and you have to shift your angle of view to do it and takes your eyes off the road. Good cabin design is about having important driving indicators right in front of your line of vision. Arguing that you don't need them and that you're lazy or a bad driver because you find it inconvenient to have to hunt for them, is a bit like saying a fighter pilot doesn't need a head's up display. Sure you can fly a fighter jet without one, but it's not quite as safe. As for occasions when you need the light on the dash - it's for any occasion when the auto lights might come on, like going into a tunnel, or when lighting conditions change, or plain and simple, when you're not sure whether they're working or not. And that's leaving aside the other occasions when the lights may come on unexpectedly, and unintentionally give a signal to another driver. If your lights come on immediately after you pulled onto a motorway a bit close to the car in front, or just as you're approaching a pedestrian crossing and someone thinks you're telling them to step out into traffic, it's quite good to know that's what you've done. And for any driver new to the car, it's distracting - both myself and my partner went through a period of time when we noticed the light wasn't on, and got distracted by it. Unnecessary.

I also bought a Rhinoliner - they were very thorough about making sure it fit - contacted me to find out which version of the boot floor I had (spare wheel). You can specify different options such as split fold rear seat, or whether you also want it to work when the seats lie flat, and has a fold out flap for the boot lip. Cost me about £80, think they started at about £60. If you have plastic side panels, you fix the boot liner on with stick on velcro - and to make it stick you should first clean the plastic where you want to attach it with cellulose paint thinner (to remove silicone residue that they put on all interior vinyl), but the velcro is pretty heavy duty. If you have carpet sides the velcro sticks to the carpet without you having to stick a velcro strip on the side. http://www.rhinouk.co.uk/ Got mine to protect the painted bumper from scratches - for the same price as a plastic bumper guard. Well made and good value for money.

You asked what the numbers mean, the lower they get, the more expensive the camera - so the Canons start with 1200d, go through 750/760d, 70d and then the really expensive 5d, 1d. I think Nikon's follow roughly the same principle. Definitely a good idea to upgrade from a bridge camera because the sensor in a bridge camera is about the size of two grains of rice (the same as in most high end mobile phones) and even a basic DSLR sensor from either Canon or Nikon is slightly smaller than a postage stamp, so you'll see a big improvement in picture sharpness. That's also the reason why you get astronomic zoom ranges on bridge cameras and not on DSLRs One of the basic Canon kits sells with an 18 - 55 zoom lens that feels a bit plastic but actually gets very good results in those tekkie tests, although the lens that's usually on my camera is an 18 - 135 and that's a pretty good range for everyday use. I'd suggest going into PC world and just having a look at the size and range, and you'll get a feel for the weight. There are also various camera comparison websites like this one http://cameradecision.com/compare/Canon-EOS-760D-vs-Canon-EOS-750D where you can see at a glance what the pros and cons are of different models. Best of luck!

If you haven't already bought one, there are two basic options, a 'bridge' camera - they usually have very good zoom capacity, but a small photographic sensor (about 3 grains of rice wide, about the same as the one in a good cameraphone), or a DSLR. DSLR have a photographic sensor that's something more like a postage stamp, so you get better pictures, but they can't match the zoom length of a bridge. Fuji make good bridge cameras, you can buy new for about £160, they have one permanently attached lens. If you want to go for a DSLR, they start around £250, and the cheap ones have limited bells and whistles, but if you buy Canon or Nikon you'll be able to use all of their lenses, which work across their ranges (until you get to the really expensive full-frame cameras). You'll get a lot of bells and whistles in a £160 bridge camera, and a brilliant zoom range, but the photos will never be as good as a DSLR. If you're really on a budget, you can look on ebay for second hand bridge cameras, you'll find loads of them there for around the £100 mark. Hope this is useful

I have a 70D and found a guide on line - series is called From Snapshots to Great Shots, published online by Peachpit Press, much better than the manual for talking you through things like aperture, shutter, ISO. Think it's about £14. It's a good choice of camera and gets very highly rated for value for money. Canon do an EF 70 - 300mm IS USM zoom which is pretty good quality, and if you're going for very long zooms there are two 150 - 600mm zooms, made by Sigma and Tamron, that start at about £700 (I know that's expensive but nothing like the Canon equivalent). I don't have either, am saving for the Sigma, but they get good reviews. If you're not needing that scale of zoom, the EF-S 18 - 135 IS STM lens is rated pretty pretty highly, and is mainly plastic so it is relatively light. If you're on a budget you will probably think about getting a teleconverter to put between the lens and the camera, it doubles the focal length of the lens, Kenko do one, C-AF 2X DGX - mention the model number because it gets better rated than older models which are still for sale - I used it with the Canon 70 - 300; tbh, the 70 - 300 took pretty good pictures and blown up to the same image size, they were still slightly better than uncropped shots with the teleconverter attached, and although the teleconverter isn't completely manual, you do have a lot of compromises. I've attached pics of the moon which give you an idea (they're not brilliant pictures but they're what I could get inner city, tripod, and without any post processing). Where to buy - WEX photographic have a very good reputation, and your local Jessops store will often price match UK websites. Places like SLR Hut, Simply Electronics, Paramoz, Valuebasket are based overseas, so you can get some quite good deals from them, (perfectly legal and they pay import duties) but there's always a question about faults and warranties. For second hand gear, camerajungle.co.uk are good, MPB also do quite a lot of second hand stuff, as do WEX (who have a pretty slick part exchange process too). Camera Jungle and MPB both show pictures of the actual lens. I think someone commented that you get much better zoom range with a bridge camera - which is true - that's because the bridge camera sensor is about the same size as a good camera phone one - about 3 grains of rice laid next to each other, compared to something like a postage stamp sized sensor for the 70D, so when the light crosses over in the lens barrel, it has to hit a smaller target, which means you can zoom further and still fill the frame. But the picture quality is nothing like. If you do start venturing into some of the more manual settings, one really good tip is before you go out, check your settings, just in case you left something on/off from the last time (things like turning off optical stabilisation if you're using a tripod, ISO settings, focussing mode) I know this is really obvious but I can't tell you the number of times I've been off on a shoot and realised I've got the camera set up wrong. Best of luck!

Hi Briskodian Variable boot floor has two fitted runners down the side of the boot, and the boot floor is very solid, with a split fold that runs from left to right. I got my Greenline with this option. The fitting information that was left in the car indicated that you could have the vbf in two positions, flat in the floor, where it gives you a hidden compartment underneath that's about 5" deep, or half way up the boot, which actually doesn't seem to work, I think you're supposed to suspend it on the hooks, but the boot floor is too narrow widthways for that to work. It is a very solid floor but aside from giving you that hidden storage (which might be useful if you don't use the boot cover) it doesn't add very much. The spare wheel kit uses a full size spare wheel and you get a set of polystyrene foam cubby holes that fit around it (you can fit these yourself without too much bother), and a polystyrene centre section that fits in the wheel, with a big plastic bolt to secure it to the floor of the far. The floor cover is much more flimsy and has two split folds that run back to front, so you can use the 'sides' around the wheel for storage. The boot floor height ends up being slightly higher for the spare wheel kit than for the VBF. You can get a spare wheel underneath the variable boot floor but the VBF will not sit flat unless you release the clips that hold it in place behind the back seat, and the spare wheel can move about. There is a thread somewhere on here about the options - you can't, I believe, order a Greenline with a spare wheel kit, but it's not because a spare wheel kit won't fit, it's because the weight of the spare affects the weight of the car, and it would affect the 0% road tax on first registration. After first registration you can do what you like, but there's nothing structurally different about the car that means a spare wheel won't fit.

Just in case anybody is looking for this in future - I have a Yeti Greenline, and I also have two labrador/cocker spaniel puppies about a year old, so I wanted as big a crate as I could get. After a lot of searching and measuring, I found a Savic dog crate that fits without having to do anything to the rear seats, fits pretty closely widthways, and also comes up to a reasonable height - seems higher than most dog crates I looked at. I've got the variable boot floor and the cage fits both with the floor in and out, with plenty of height to spare, if you fit it with the variable boot floor in, the top of the cage comes up about half way up the windows, so they get a view.... but as there is plenty of height to spare, I think it would fit with any of the standard boot floor arrangements, spare wheel etc. The crate door is raised a few inches off the ground, so even in the lower boot floor option, it's still above the lip of the boot. Website below gives you the dimensions in a PDF, but I think I bought it in the UK from Dog Kennels World. There are two types, one called the 'mobile' and the other called the 'mobile wide' and two size versions in each - the one that takes advantage of all of the boot without requiring alterations is the Dog Residence Mobile Wide 91cm. http://www.savic.be/...bile-wide-91-cm It also folds down quite easily when it's in the car but it uses up about half the boot when folded. Thought about liners and grilles and mats, but these two have eaten half my house already... anybody wants me to post a pic of what it looks like I'll try to oblige.