Andy Sayle

Possibly check the wiring loom that goes between the door and the car, I had window issues, as well as central locking issues, that were solved by replacing this section of the loom (approx £120 at the local dealers). The wires crack over time, and cause some odd issues with anything that interact with the stuff in the door.... You should be able to pull the rubber bellows/boot back enough to see if there are any cracks in the wiring.

Oooh, careful on this one. I had a clutch spring plate fail on mine, one of the leaf springy bits had a clear fatigue failure, and departed company with the rest of the plate. It proceeded to bounce around the inside of the clutch housing, before eventually punching through the gearbox casing, and allowing gear oil to dribble down on to hot bits of exhaust. I noticed the lack of clutch one day that went away (clearly the bit of metal getting stuck somewhere it shouldn't be,) and then the smell of gear oil first (it stinks!). I ended up needing a new clutch (and flywheel), new clutch slave cylinder, and a gearbox casing strip down, weld up and rebuild. Skoda were not at all interested in the failure, even though it was not long out of warranty, and can clearly be attributed to a fatigue failure of a sub-standard clutch component. I had a thread on here about it somewhere....

I replaced my drivers seat base element last year. The original one (2012 Yeti) was a large single core wire from what I could tell. The replacement part (from TPS) was a stranded wire, and a lot more flexible. It wasn't the easiest job to fit with all the clips and stuff on the seat.

Afternoon all. Does anyone have a set of Team Heko wind deflectors fitted on their Yeti, that also has the electric folding mirrors? Do they interfere at all when folded? I have emailed Heko, but had no response back yet. Cheers Andy

I had mine replaced by the local dealer. Fornthe cost (about £120) I thought it easier to get them to do it, and have a comeback of it were to fail again...

Yep, exactly the same issue with mine a few years back, about a year out of warranty IIRC. Clutch ring disintegrated, and a hole punched in the gearbox casing (causing oil leak onto hot bits). The broken bits also bored throught he clutch slave cylinder. I managed to get the gearbox casing welded up, and a new clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder and a lot of work. It was a big bill. Skoda were ultimately useless. They refused to do anything at all because I had the car recovered to a local garage, and not the nearest dealer (30 miles away). The fault was as clear a case of metal fatigue as I have seen outside of textbooks, and despite this, Skoda still did the slopey-shoulder thing. Apparently the correct course of action for me should have been to have the car recovered to the dealer (at my cost) who would diagnose (again at my cost), and repair (at my cost) and only then would Skoda UK "consider" whether there was a case for a good will payment. The estimated bill from the dealer would have been >£6k. Actual cost to me at local indy garage was in the region of £1k. I posted about it on here somewhere.... Andy

Hi folks. Has anyone that has replaced their GPS aerial (antenna?), ever used one of the little pucks, mounted under the dashboard, instead of replacing the aerial in the roof? I've had a look at what it takes to get to mine, and I'm not liking the look of getting the headlining out. It doesn't look like there is room to get access too, due to the sunroof..... Cheers Andy

Morning all. this is a bit of a long shot, but does anyone know exactly where the connectors for the heated windscreen are located on the Yeti? even better, does anyone have a photo of a yeti with the windscreen removed (ideally showing the connectors in situ!). I've got an MOT fail-worthy chunk out of my windscreen, and I'm thinking that it is a good opportunity to add the only feature I think is missing from my Yeti, a heated screen (well, ignoring a heated steering wheel actually...) From the wiring diagrams, I think there are 3 connections, two power and one return. It looks from photos of windscreens I have seen using google, the power connectors are along the bottom edge, but it is not clear. the return connection is apparently in the roof rail, so presumably this is central, near where the rain and light sensors are connected? many thanks! Andy

Hi folks. I've read a fair bit about the zinc inclusions issue on Yetis of around 2012 vintage (like mine). I hadn't noticed anything to be concerned about on mine, but when I washed the car last weekend, I've noticed small bubbles under the paint on the doors. All 4 of them. Most of them have not broken through, and are small (maybe 2-3mm across), but one is showing an orangey stain on a tiny spot. I'm miles out of warranty, and haven't been using Skoda for servicing ever since the exploding clutch of 2016 issue where they basically flipped me the bird, and denied any claims. Also, where the seal rubs on the front door (the seal that is mounted on the front of the rear door!) I've noticed the paint wearing extremely thin. At the bottom corner on the drivers side, there is evidence of it breaking through and some corrosion too 😞 So, has anyone had these things repaired, as to stop any future issues? I'm not massively concerned about appearance, as my Yeti is certainly not going to win any concours! I just want to make sure that the rust is kept at bay in the future. But, I don't have a massive budget for sorting this sort of thing out, so if anyone has any experience of this, including ballpark costs to repair, could you let me know? Thanks! Andy

That's what it was on mine. An intermittent juddery vibration that depended on road speed and engine load as to whether it was felt. The rear propshaft damper was the cause, the outer mass balance ring was about 80% loose. New one fitted, vibration gone for good. As I've said before (I think) get under the car, look for the back end of the propshaft, and there is a metal ring, just in front of the haldex/rear diff unit. This is bonded to the inner bit of the rear propshaft coupling with rubber pads. I'll put money on it that these pads are partially broken or loose, and that the ring can be moved forward and backwards relatively easily by hand. (look for movement between where the rubber joins the metal ring. it will appear to slide, instead of the rubber flex. There will more than likely be some corrosion under the rubber as well.).

Check the drivers door wiring loom, where it goes from the pillar to the door. I had similar faults when some of the wires had cracked in there on my Yeti, doors not locking or unlocking, windows doing weird things. I think it's a known problem on older yeti's, mine is a 2012 model. Cheers Andy

Problem now sorted. The rear coupling/damper has be replaced with a new one, and all the vibration has gone. On inspection, the outer metal ring is bonded on in six places. Three big and three small pads. All three of the large pads were bot attached to the outer ring, thus allowing too much movement, and much vibration. You can see the orange corroded areas on the outer ring on the attached pictures. These are the pads that are no longer attached. To celebrate the vibrations going, I think a remap is called for! Ha ha!

Not sure yet. It's booked in for the rear damper to be replaced tomorrow. Will report back when it is done

Had the car inspected at a local garage. When it was up on the ramp, I had a good look. The rear coupling has a metal ring around the outside. It looks like this is almost free to do what it wants and there are lots of cracks in the rubber inside it. Garage is going to replace it and see if that sorts the problem.

That's what I have been thinking it is. I did a test last night on a "private" road, and over about 85mph, it goes away. So I'm thinking there is a resonance around that particular road speed, and the obvious suspect is the rubber coupling at the back end of the propshaft. Hopefully an easy (and cheap!) fix, but we shall see what the garage says.... Andy

To updccate my post earlier on this topic, I've had a set of newly refurbished wheels put on the car, with new tyres, and all balanced up correctly. The juddering has not gone. It's fine up to about 60-65mph when the juddering/vibration starts. It's a lot worse under load (like driving up a hill, or accelerating heavily). Backing off the throttle helps a little, but it doesn't go away. The gear choice makes little to no difference, dipping the clutch also makes no difference. I'm booking it in to a garage, to have someone take a look. I'm assuming it is either going to be something driveshaft or propshaft related. I hoping it isn't going to be an expensive fix..... Andy

My car is suffering from the same symptoms. I'm having new wheels and tures put on early next week, and I'm.hopingbthat sorts it. If not, the hunt for the judder shall move up the drive train...

Its fitted as standard to L&K models, and optional on all the others as far as I know. (In the UK anyway...)

Updated my profile now, it's a 2012 elegance. 2.0tdi, 4x4, with pano roof, rough road pack, and a few other minor extras too.

Hi folks. Just picked up my Yeti from its annual oil change service. The rear propshaft damper is apparently showing signs of failing, the rubber inside the outer ring is showing some cracks. I was wondering if this could be the cause of a vibration that can be felt when travelling over about 60mph, and under hard acceleration? Its mostly noticable in higher gears, and is less noticeable under medium and light acceleration. I thought it might have been wheel balance, but it almost disappears when lifting off the accelerator. Next question, is replacing this damper achievable for a novice on a driveway, or does it require fancy tools etc? Cheers! Andy

It could be a broken wire or three in the door wiring loom. It's a common fault where the wires flex, fatigue and eventually start breaking where they pass through from the body of the car, into the door. I had my drivers loom replaced last year, and the symptoms were that the car wouldnt lock, and that the windows had a mind of their own...

T5.1 kombi short wheel base. 180bitdi 4motion with difflock, because why not! Currently in many pieces as I start up the insides with carpet lining, insulation and adding stuff like lighting, parking sensors and stuff.

I'm in the same boat. 2 daughters getting ever bigger. I've just bought a VW T5 though. Plenty big enough! Cant quite bring myself to sell the Yeti though, 2012 4x4 diesel, with some nice options. I keep telling myself I'll get a toy car instead of the Yeti, but nothing seems good enough on a limited budget...

Me too. I even provided evidence in text books that had almost the exact same patterns across the failed bits of metal. Still nothing from Skoda. It's a shame because apart from that, the car has been bloody brilliant. Oh and the diamond cut alloys cording, but that's common across all manufacturers...

Yep. Happened on mine. The first I knew of it, was a manky burning oily type smell coming through into the cabin, when stopped at traffic lights. then a day later, I couldn't select any gears, as teh clutch wasn't disengaging. what had happened was the spring plate (the one that has loads of "fingers" on) had fatigued, and partially disintegrated. the lumps of metal flying around had basically cut a lovely groove into the bellhousing, through the clutch slave cylinder feed pipe, and just through into the gearbox. The manky smell was gearbox oil dripping down onto something hot . It needed a new clutch, clutch slave cylinder, welded repair to the gearbox casing and bellhousing, and a new DMF whilst it was in pieces. The annoying thing was that Skoda washed their hands of any responsibility, despite the clear evidence of metal fatuigue on the broken parts, that can only be attributed to an incorrectly designed/manufactured part of the clutch.