KenONeill

I didn't look at the video, but a pry bar will not apply the same sorts of dynamic loads as the car will.

Definitely; the toe angle could be all over the place under acceleration and under braking.

I dunno; do the instructions mention serpentes lubrication?

You may well be right, but the OP never mentioned and probably doesn't need chains.

Yes they will. Ask someone (like me) who has a car with 280mm discs and 16" wheels. Oh and BTW 280mm discs actually go under VAG 15" wheels.

Certainly:- Use the model fora. Tell us which engine the car has. Read the fault codes. My best guess is a faulty ABS sensor, but I don't know which one to be able to advise you further.

It would be "simply clever" of VAG to actually do that. I don't believe they ever have though unless the sensor is disconnected.

You just persuaded me to ignore him too.

Yes and no; at 180bhp (dyno measured) you start running into heat soak with the SMIC and a solid RH inner arch. The Swiss cheese won't give you more power but will stop the heat soak.

You can get that with a generic map, standard SMIC and a Swiss cheese job on the inner arch.

Tracking is out, suspension is slammed or both.

@Graham Butcher Some years ago I had a similar speed crash in a Citroen ZX. The bent panels included 2 front outer wings, 2 inner wings, 2 headlamp mount panels, the bonnet and the bonnet slam panel. The headlight adjusters were also broken. If you've also got bent front chassis rails and subframe... That said, the repairers should have waited until you have received and agreed a settlement before asking you to collect your property.

That's the bit that is really dangerous; the bit where the car decides it knows better than you what direction it should be going in.

I'm not saying that will solve the problem, but it's the 2 cheapest and least intrusive things that might since they need doing regularly anyway.

There's how the OP solved it; They've not visited the site in the last 3 years.

Valve stem oil seals, turbo bearing seals. You need any more theories?

When was its oil last changed? Mine sounds "quietly tappety" cold, when an oil change is about due.

Erwin - 7 Euro for an hour, by which time you can download all the manuals and wiring diagrams for your car.

Ah OK. I was thinking that the issue could be a grain of muck in the capillary side of the switch.

Quite possibly, based on the stop/start being disabled. That was how my mate knew his Superb needed a new battery. The "max revs" thing may be another undocumented bug though.

OK; well the only times I've got my clutch hot I could smell it.

Yeah but no but yeah but no but... Seriously, it's only happened to me once, but I had a similar issue caused by a grain of carbon getting into the capillary that reports the oil pressure to the idiot lamp.

Could you smell hot friction material? If not, I'd suspect another (previously undocumented) bug.

Different wheel diameter, different tyre size, I'd guess different wheel width and offset but you've not said.

@rsw070697 How about learning to strip all the tracking cluff off FleaBay URLs? This would do it - http:// https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203606677255 I can't comment on "spongy" beyond that that might be fluid and might just be needing bleeding. You have the car and I don't. I can say that mine has a nice high clutch, good for racing changes. Pass.