alimac81

diagnosis update if anyone is interested, I tracked down the source of the problem for inop doors and fuel cap release as being a high impedance in the 12v supply line. It looks like it is somewhere in the wire that goes from the fuse box, to the terminal which then goes to all doors and fuel cap. Slaved in a 12v supply direct from the battery to one of the doors (unpinned the existing suspect 12v supply) and the door unlocked and locked off the fob. I slaved 12v into the existing harness for all doors as well, and all doors locked and unlocked (my back right door also un-deadlocked itself, bonus!). All ive got to do now is find the source of the high impedance in the 12v supply wire, or bypass it with a new wire..... The second option will probably be the easiest!

Thanks for all the info, I think I will use the fuel filler cap release servo wiring as a fault diagnosis tool, and disconnect each door one at a time, and see if the flap releases. This should hopefully narrow it down to a single point, or door. If it doesn't, I assume then that the snag is somewhere in the dash etc . I also thought that maybe the battery is on its way out, but im getting no other issues power related, starts first time with ease.

Ok so latest on my knackard central locking, managed to fix something unrelated to it, but I posted about before. The elusive s-contact error code, and no switchable 12v at stereo, which turned out to be a fuse that wasn't even fitted!! don't know why it wasn't but replacing it fixed that issue, Fuse number 10 which I think is labelled as engine petrol control, which is why I didn't think about it before until I got a wiring diagram! My C/L fault and fuel filler cap fault remains! the earthing is all good on both CCU and Fuel cap release, however the voltage is doing some funny things which may or may not be an issue? When I try and open the filler cap (which shares its 12v supply with all door locks) the 12v drops right off and no actuator movement. Ive tested the actuator and it works, switch is all good, and again earthing is all good. will try and get a pic of the wiring diagram up at some point, if anyone has any ideas as to a possible fix then would appreciate the input.

Ok, I made up a jumper lead from the ignition switch to pin 17 of the CCU to rule out the S contact being the cause of all my woes. fault code gone, C/L still broke. I've also done a continuity check on the ground wire, and get about 26 ohms. Not sure if this is good or bad but it proves the earth is there. Im getting a Haynes book of lies soon so this will hopefully have more info in wiring diagrams.

could be the door mech on its way out, or your getting water ingress in the door connector and its starting to break down. id get the door card off and have a look, and check connector as you don't it to fail with the deadlocks on... like mine!!!

Slaved another CCU into the car yeasterday and recoded it to my key just to double check the CCU isnt the cause and still have the same fault. I noticed that it was flagging up S contact intermittent or not signal on the VAGCOM as well. Decided to fit a new ignition switch i had lying around cleared the fault codes, and disconnected my radio and managed to get it locking and unlocking off key fob. I should mention that i soldered a wire onto the switchable 12v feed from ignition switch for my radio which is why i removed the radio to see if it was somehow causing issues. Ok so it seems like im getting somewhere, only it then decided to stop working again! Couldnt get it going so i got ****ed off and called it a night. Rebuilt all the trim around the steering wheel after refitting the original CCU, and refitted the stereo, drove the car out of the workshop and hey presto central locking started working again! It preceeded to work fine for the rest of the evening until this morning when it worked when i unlocked it but when i got to work, stopped again.... Confused.com Any insights anyone? Just to confirm all doors wont unlock/lock off remote or key, boot locks/unlocks fine off both.

I think you might be right, slaved in a new door lock unit today and the same fault remains. I am still unsure about the CCU, as the unit I slaved in was 2nd hand, do they need setting up on VAGCOM? or is it plug and play?

Removed the door loom today, took off the loom tape and checked it all, seems fine. I also did a voltage check on the plug which connects to the lock module, I don't know the correct voltages for which pins, but I was getting 11.2v on all pins apart from the brown (earth) and a gray and black wire.

Yup part codes match, and I had the fault codes before I touched the ccu. Heated door mirrors are flagging a fault code now, oh the joys

Hi, had a search and couldn't find a solution so here goes. Central locking recently packed up, but the boot still works off the key fob and key. got these error codes of vag com 00928, 00929,00930, 00931 locking module central locking all four doors implausible signal. checked the diver side door for corrosion on all the usual clips, took the door unit apart to check for loose contacts and corrosion all looks good. swapped the central convenience unit and still no joy (do you need the key from the car the unit came from?) Any ideas would be appreciated as im not to clued up on the octy mk1, only had it for a few months with regards Ali

Humm wonder if my engine is sitting too far over to the drivers side?

Well managed to change my timing belt water pump etc yesterday but had a massive issue removing the upper timing belt cover! Has anyone else had this problem?

I think the resistance was about 0.2 ohms, we double checked the multi meter first and was ok. We were just as confused as you are lol so a work around seems to be the best option.

thought id put up on here where I am at in case anyone else has this issue. Got a mate to help me out who is quite handy with wiring, we determined that the s contact was fine (fitted a new ignition switch) and we got good continuity between the ignition connector and block A pin 7 of the radio loom, but still no voltage at pin 7 when the ignition is turned on :wonder:. We also read 12v directly at the spade connector which hooks up to the s contact. I'm fairly new to these cars, but my mate used to own one and is quite handy at auto electrics and we were both stumped so decided to do a work around. This will consist of routing a wire directly from the s contact wire to a spare pin position not being used on audio connector A, and I will rewire my radio harness to suit. Bit of a cop out but, beats ripping apart the dashboard to find out exactly how everything is routed.

Ok just found out that a 20amp fuse was fitted to the s contact (fuse 37) when the book says it should be a 10. So im thinking the s contact is fried. Where does it live? Ignition barrel?

Ok cheers will get the multi meter on it this afternoon.

Was trying to fit my pioneer stereo to my vrs yeasterday, everything was working fine till I tried sliding it back into the din slot then it blew the radio fuse. Changed the fuse and ive got 12v permanent but no switched 12v feed. Checked all the fuses and they are ok. Checked the wiring in the din slot and cant see any damage. Any ideas?

Only been on here a day and already getting bits for my new vrs lol.

excellent will pm you my address, how do you want payment? paypal? if so could you pm me the email address you want me to send the money to. cheers Ali

HI mate, do you have the intake pipe that goes from the intercooler to the inlet manifold?

Hello, Just bought myself a black mk1 Octavia vrs, and thought id say hello! Will be in need of advice from members off this website, who have lots of experience on these motors at some point in the future! Ali