alimac81

I must have got confused with people who have made up the kits themselves, as in bought a g60 flywheel and associated bolts separate and then got a LUK VR6 clutch on its own.

Sachs or Luk it is then for when i get a SMFW conversion!

Do quite a few people on this forum have issues with Techniclutch?

possibly, but i personally would find it easier to just take the lower dashboard cover off under the steering wheel and have a look. I found a link on google that may help. http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/18621-were-and-how-ccm-module/ do you have or have access to VAG COM? its needed to code your keys to the CCM.

Could be any number of things, boost leak, worn turbo actuator, boost control valve. What mileage has your car done?

Just remember to test the seats before fully installing the wiring, either the seats could be broken or the wiring will be wrong (more likely). I found that the wires that go to the connector that goes into the back of the skoda oem heated seat switch was wrong, so i had to unclip all of the wires in the plastic connector and reposition them.

Not sure if the CCM's are compatible, so but best to check. See if you can access your CCM to confirm the part number, i'm not home at the moment otherwise id be able to find out for you.

Yup took me alot of patience and alot of mulling over wiring diagrams, but it is kind of simple. You use mostly mk3 wiring and just marry up the relevant wires from the Bora heated seats to where the mk3 heated seats would be if that makes sense? Probably not lol again if i find some more info i will post it up. got a pic of the wiring loom i made up to connect the Mk4 golf loom to Mk3 if it helps. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/gallery/image/8548-heated-seat-conversion-loom-between-mk4-loom-and-mk3-loom-heated-seat-control-wires/

First of all throw away those bora switches (or sell them on ebay) get a bora wiring loom for the seats, and get a mk3 golf heated seats wiring loom with the relays. You then need to get a genuine skoda octavia heated seat switch. Thats the easy part done, next you need to get a wiring diagram for both cars (Bora and Mk3 golf) and make your own wiring loom adaptor. Your main goal is to mate up the Bora (or MK4 golf) heated seats to the Mk3 heated seats control system. Its harder installing them this way but you get a much more OEM fit and you can replace that blank switch cover on your dashboard with a heated seat switch. I got all the parts I needed off ebay, and Halfords. If I can find my old wiring diagram I drew up I will post it up on here which should help.

If you really want to fit a cone filter, have a look at the Honda S2000 air filter mod, very cheap and you should be able to get the filter element from euro car parts or GSF. A decent cold air feed is a must of course, I feel that most cone filters are only really useful if you go for high flow setups though, such as 2.5" boost pipework and hybrid turbo. As mentioned in replies already, the standard air box is fine certainly for stage 1.

Are you able to get a spare known working CCM? It would be worth ruling this out as it would save a lot of head scratching and pulling wires apart. If there is no sign of water damage to any of the connectors then that's the next place I would look as previously suggested on this thread. Might also be worth while cutting some lengths of wire to slave in from the CCM to the door connector to rule out wiring issues. You could be getting a break down in the control signal l wires ( purple, purple/white wires), as it seems you are getting power to the door just intermittent trigger signals. Did you measure the voltages while operating the door locks via the key fob?

Possibly, but short of replacing the stalk I don't know how to diagnose it. It does seem to move on its own more when driving as when I get out to have a poke around it doesn't seem to happen..... Wiring touching the bodywork somewhere perhaps?

Yes I know this has been done to death and I've exhausted the search bar and I'm still stuck for a solution. The usual intermittent rear wiper operation, will move randomly when it's turned off. I've replaced the rear wiper motor with a new unit from gsf, and fitted another second hand 377 relay, which I opened up and cleaned first. Both once changed the fault remained, can't find any obvious damage to the wiring in the usual places (near washer hose in boot near CD changer) has anyone else experianced this and what was your solution.....(apart from blanking off the wiper hole).

if it doesnt feel sluggish, and the power delivery is smooth then my guess everything is fine. Are you running a standard map? if you are its best to run the standard airbox as cone filters can produce less power and torque than standard box. If you really want to know the health of your car (which is a good idea before tuning) take it to a decent tuner and get it rolling roaded, they should check for error codes as well. R-tech or Badger 5 are supposed to be the best for 1.8t jabba sport as well, depends where your located.

I removed the system myself (pump, pipes and valve), and put a blanking plate over where the valve sits on the passenger side of the engine, then had it mapped out when I got it remapped a while back, had no issues since. Don't think removing the relay would help, only bring up warning light.

finished installing mk4 heated seats into the octy using mk3 golf wiring loom and genuine Octavia heated seat switch... wasn't easy! Don't ask what the hacksaw was for....

look into getting 1.8t bam inlet manifold conversion (throttle body on right hand side) if your going welly cooler, you can get a much tidier setup.

Heated seats wiring installation... step one!

Fair one.. 2.5" on cold side of intercooler then, 2 1/4" on hot side and a decent core should see you up to 250bhp easily. Bam inlet mani isn't too difficult and you can use some of the standard pipework on a custom fmic fit.

If your running standard power, i wouldnt go much bigger than 57mm/ 2 1/4".