D.FYLAKTOS

Believe it or not the programmer asked me if i have my old lambda, i said yes and he suggest to me to connect the old one back. My old has 80.000 Km of use so should i put him back for another 20.000 Km? (they say 100.000 is the limit for a Lambda sensor).

Bypasses the factory brake pump or it's additional? After the installment it's ''try and tighten'' procedure? How often we must do that ''winding''?

Update from ECU-chip: The old programme was deleted and a new one installed while the car was on the Dynamometer. Now the car from the first crank works (idling) one click smoother. The rpm do not raise and drop after a gear change so abruptly as before. I feel i have more torque on the low-middle rpm (not tested on higher rpm). The fuel consumption is ''one click" lower but it's too early to have a full conclusion, i will make a 100km tank filling, a zeroing of the TC-6 and after at least 100km i will have the verdict. Unfortunately due to the quarantine and the Covid-19 restrictions i could travel in Highway for about 1,5 year and the car was ''clogged". I had to make an adjustment to the coolant because i think i have it too thick. The Bosch lambda sensor is OK but the programmer insisted that i should keep the original.

1) The winding with the screwdriver on the drum brakes is like the tightening of the nut on the rod in small 50cc (παπακι) drum brake? You just improve the feeling, you don't raise the pressure but sometimes this is important. 2) the aftermarket pressure regulator on the brake pump works with the mathematical equation P=F/S and tightening the faucet raises the pressure or not?

How to Fix Computer Problems in Your Car with a Little Spray Cleaner.

Every time we change our battery or every time a mechanic disconnects the negative pole to work is the same. This may delete an error but if there is a problem (which only a Vcds can reveal) a myriad of that kind of ECU-reset won't fix the problem (speaking by my own experience). Inside the 2 ECU plugs are dozens of pins, maybe one or some of them had that green colour or corrosion, a contack cleaner (NOT a WD-40) spray will help the most.

Needs 2 persons inside a garage with the mechanic to know the procedure, if i ain't a Skoda guy i doubt if he take the responsibility to do it. With the aftermarket pressure regulator things are much easier, after the install everything is on the driver, test and click till you find what's the best result. If i remember correct the Felicia brake pump is 22mm so if we want to buy and aftermarket regulator what are the specifications? We measure it at bar? How is the stock and how much can we go with that regulator?

Can't he adjust the rear drums as the video above to be more ''immediate" ?

Update from ECU-chip: Tomorrow morning i will have my Trusty back with new programme, i am anxious to test it in city traffic where my Felicia had the problem and see if in the ''after the shift'' cold start will show the same phenomenon with high rpm. In Dynamometer where the tuner tested it things maybe look ideal but let's see on real conditions.

The inspection is done at the gas station, if a positive sample is found due to bureaucracy the fine is late to be applied, thete will be an appeal latter an examination of the 2nd sample then a court and after years the reduced (not the inicial) fine will be paid. Fuel mafia, check, government employees, politicians involvement, reduced or deleted fines etc it's a long and bitter story.

The driver? For many decades was the main responsible for fuel fraud because was the ''link'' from storage facility to the gas station and somewhere in the middle a quantity of fuel was changing hands and was replacing by other lower quality. It's a fact that some fuel tank drivers are honest and the illegality was from the gas station owner but till the coming of GPS and tracking the route from A to Z the guilty was the fuel tank driver.

My "high idle for long time" looks similar to yours but mine maybe it's from the Ecu-chip. Make a visit to a local repair-shop, there is no need to be a Skoda-VW one, for free he will make you a scanning via your OBD 1 port and maybe it's an error that cause you the problem. He wave for many decades an expression here in Greece which fits perfectly on this occasion: ''i am going to change his Oils"

OK, next time i see my nearest gas station to be refueled by a tank i will grab the owner from the collar and ask him to tell the truth, if he says that he is refuelling Spring and not Winter then ''he is done", he will pay the consequences. I will put the blame on him because for mine and @HappySkoda problem with high idling at cold start it's his gasoline fault !

The metal sound that you hear is from your clutch, not from inside the engine. If you open the hood and look down you will see the clutch metal wire, put some grease on the wire and move a little bit front-back the piece of metal piece (which has the hole from where the wire passes) the go inside and sit, press the clutch pedal few times (the engine is off). https://imgur.com/8CDqtVS The noise comes because when you release the pedal at last time (before you turn off the car) the wire is not turned 100% full back, so pressing one time the pedal you "collect the surplus" (μαζευεις το μποσικο) and it's OK.

How To Adjust Your Drum Brakes.

How To Check Your Car Battery Voltage https://www.hondaofslidell.com/how-to-check-your-car-battery-voltage-slidell-la/ How to Test Your Battery Voltage with a Voltmeter https://www.goauto.ca/blog/how-to-test-your-battery-voltage At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 14.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. A discharged battery will have a voltage of about 11.2 volts or less.

What the chemists do inside it's their work but as long as i live i have never heard or read comments as ''let's take from the A has more fresh fuel than the B" Even the guys which make the programmes for cars with 700+ HP here in Greece have safeguards because they don't know if the driver pushes the car winter or summer. Yes for the turbo-guys things are better than hot summer but this is another story. The fact is that we don't import fuel for decades now as other countries do.

I cannot buy new rims at the moment, i am stuck with the 5.5. 😐

In our 1.3 Felicia the weight distribution is 62 front and 38 rear, i don't know for your model but if happens what the @Thefeliciahacker said your car will has a major brake problem especially on curbs. I don't think that the factory brake regulator can handle the new situation and you have to buy a new one, to make some brake tests to find the proper adjustments etc, does it worth it?

The charging voltage gets really low, around 12 volts and under when coming to a stop or at idle. Maybe you have the same issue. Together we might be able to figure this out. In this video I attempt to solve a low voltage issue I'm having in my 1995 GMC Suburban 5.7L. I recently installed Flex-A-Lite dual electric fans in place of my stock clutch fan and they work great but I'm now having a low voltage issue while idling at a stoplight. I've also upgraded my stock 105 amp alternator to a Powermaster 140 amp.

No news from the ECU programmer, i feel sad and i am worry. The battery VooDoo guy made a mistake, it's common practise to connect the negative always last (he should spray and remove the detritus). No. Since the 60's we have 4 Oil Refineries, we buy from them no matter the brand. https://www.helpe.gr/en/the-group/from-past-to-present/ " is acquired by the Greek State which fully controls the refining, distribution and trading of oil products." https://www.moh.gr/en/company/about-us/ " It has the capacity to process various types of crude oil and manufactures a wide range of oil products. It supplies commercial oil companies in Greece, but the bulk of its production is sold abroad. Moreover, it is the only refinery that produces base oils in Greece." I think only Shell V-Power 100 Racing was imported back in the middle of 2000 era.

These can be found in a Greek gas station. For many of us is like kind of ''second nature" move, to be honest after so many years we don't search it too much, some guys do it some not.

΅The reason that we do this is because we think that pressing the clutch frees the engine from the gearbox resistance at start-up, making the starter and battery work easier, also that if the battery is not in perfect condition and it's very cold outside this way those crucial seconds will make her task one click easier. At cold start we turn the key, wait till the sound of the relay stops, press the clutch with gear on Neutral and turn the key. When the motor starts immediately we release the clutch and let the car idle, we use that trick for decades, everybody knows it here. Has nothing to do with laptop-software etc. 1) Remove both poles from battery press the horn and turn the alarm (of course nothing will happen but this removes any remain ''electricity" from the whole circuit remove the plastic clips from the ECU unit plugs (the small one has one and the second has two) spray on the pins a little bit of Contact Cleaner wait for few minutes put the plugs back, pout the safety clips and connect the 2 poles turn the key, wait for a minute and pull it off put it back, turn it and when the motor starts drive normally foe few kilometres. 2) You have to visit a repair-shop, for FREE the mechanic will connect a laptop or a portable device to your OBD 1 port that you have on the right side, in few seconds he will find if there are any errors and will erase them.

From 2:16 till 3:21 the idle was 900 rpm, mine is 1100 rpm for 3:40 minutes. Have you ever made a restart to your ECU unit? Some of us do it just till the motor starts, it's for 2 seconds and of course not till we engage the 1st gears because this would ruin our clutch.

Because any mechanic will tell you to start checking first of all the engine with a scanner tool and then: valves, sensors, injectors, fuel pressure, spark plugs, filter etc. After you check and exclude all the above what's left? What's the last resort? The chip (programme) but in this case only a programmer can help, not a local Skoda repair-shop. Felicia is an old model, the today's owners have ''ready" programmes as ABT and sometimes with remote control they can change the modes (City,Sport,Racing etc). On the web some advertise ''ready to use" Chip tuning devices but isn't a risk? I am in great agony my fellow Felician for the today's news. 🥺