D.FYLAKTOS

I don't think Felicia has that because in the past i asked from my mechanic to make the hand brake one click tighter because was too loose and i don't think he did it from inside the cabin removing the plastic of console, he must done it from the rear drums. Later i saw the ''clicks" of hand brake raise were less and it was stiffer but i saw no difference on the brake pedal travel.

Yes the boiling point of water is less as we get higher in the mountain but about those number that many coolants say 200-220-23-240 "c etc is there a possibility for our car to stand such a temperature? The limit is 120 'C and after that the ''Boom" comes. My biggest concern is: a 30% ethylene glycol mix won't get warmer one click faster that the 50% mix at morning cold starts?

While searching for this matter i saw this https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html Between 30% or 40% Ethylene Glycol the boiling point is identical, 104.4 'C From the Motul coolant that i use now i have found this https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/inugel_expert_ultra_en_fr_motul.pdf To maintain anti-corrosion properties, do not dilute below 33% ______________________________ I wonder: 1) What's the gain to go to 50%-50% since we don't have here below zero cold start temperatures? 2) With the logic ''my fuel mix is rich at cold start" a 30% ethylene glycol mix won't get warmer one click faster that the 50% mix at morning cold starts?

Today i visited another repair-shop, i asked if the winding of the rear drums wheel is for pedal too but they told me not He said the pedal travel can not be adjusted, it's ''fixed".

I phone to a repair-shop, he said that winding on the rear drums is for the hand brake, it makes it more tight.

Coolant ''too thick" or ''too strong" means is 80 or 70 or 60% ethylene glycol and the rest distilled water Coolant ''too thin" or ''too weak" means 30-20% ethylene glycol and the rest distilled water. Coolant "watery" means 10% ethylene glycol and the rest distilled water but every mechanic will point this to you as a Danger. We know that, for educational purposes a tuning magazine here made a test at 2005, asked from some companies to provide him their products and for those who respond here are the results. I wish they could test more products but it was not in their hands. Brand - Boiling temperature - Cooling time: Distilled water: 127.4 C, 18.5 min AGIP ANTIFREEZE EXTRA: 134.3 C, 16.5min AMSOIL PROPYLENE GLYCOL: 130.6 C, 16.4min AQUAFLU: 130.2 C, 16.2min ARAL ANTIFREEZE EXTRA: 132.3C, 16.4min BP ANTIFROST: 132.9 C, 17.4 min CASTROL ANTIFREEZE: 132.6 C, 17.8min ELF COOLELF CLASSIC: 133.3 C, 17.7 min EVANS NPO-R: 215 C, 16.4min FL PARAFLU 11: 132.7 C, 16.7min FUCHS FRICOFIN S: 133.1 C, 17.2min IGOL ANTIGEL: 132.4 C, 16.8min IP ECOBLU 100: 132.5 C, 16.6min ANTIFREEZE LOCTITE: 132.1 C, 17.2min MOTUL INUGEL EXPERT: 133.6 C, 16.9min REPSOL ANTICONGELANTE: 132.8 C, 11.4min SHELL GLYCOSHELL CONCETRATE: 132.2 C, 17min ANTIFREEZE VALVES: 132.5 C, 16.4min YACCO LR ORGANIQUE: 136.2 C, 15.7min FUCHS FRICOFIN G12: 132.8 C, 16min REDLINE WATER WETTER: 127.8 C, 18min It's a common believe here that for a family car with the temperatures that we have (for example in Athens) and the traffic that a mixture of 30%-70% or 40%-60% it's fine and a mixture of 50%-50% cover almost everybody in Greek territory. I have done a mistake to my coolant mixture due to some problems (thermostat, i was in the middle of the road trying etc) and i calculate it wrong so my coolant now is ''thick" or ''very strong" so comparing to a 50%-50% mixture (that the majority suggest) i think the recovery time of my mixture is worst than 40-60 or a 50-50 one, am i wrong to this? I would like to inform you (and the other guy which many times has made ironically posts about my english) about the situation here in Greece for studying a foreign language as english for example: How many years does it take to finish English? Two (2) years of preliminary classes (Junior A + B ) + six (6) years normal (up to the order of Lower B2) + two (2) years to obtain the Proficiency C2 degree, total 10 years. What are the English classes? 1. Junior A ’ (first preliminary) 2. Junior B ' (Monday preliminary) 3. Beginners - A Senior (1st regular) 4. Elementary - B Senior (2nd regular) 5. Level A1 - C Senior (3rd regular) 6. Level A2 - D Senior (4th regular) 7. Level B1 - Pre-FCE (5th regular or year before LOWER) 8. Level B2 (Lower) 9. Level C1 (Advanced) 10.Level C2 (Proficiency). I am a family man who works 6 days per week trying to pay the loan for his house, the bills and maintain a car and a small motorcycle. I born in the middle of 60's and now it's too late for me to abandon everything and go to school for english don't you think? _______________________________________________ PLUS: the challenge (or say it as a wager) is ON, except the https://www.skodaclubpeloponnhsou.gr/search/label/ΤΕΧΝΙΚΕΣ ΕΡΩΤΗΣΕΙΣ-ΑΠΑΝΤΗΣΕΙΣ-ΣΧΟΛΙΑ there are another two http://www.groupvag.gr/skodaclub/index.php and the https://skodafans.gr/skodafans/index.php I am there with the same nick name so it's easy to be found so let's see if there is a volunteer. ..

If it's from inside good, if it's from outside i have to remove the wheel the cover etc. In few days i will go to a local repair-shop and to find out.

1) I am Greek (100% Native) with no traveling aboard experiences and i learn english by myself with a Course book and a dictionary. If someone Non Greek can manage to login and participate to a Greek Skoda forum (i can provide him the 2 links) writing in Greek language (in the same way of learning) better than i do english here, then i publicly commit to accept my loss and delete my account in this forum. 2) Yes that's what i meant, you're da Man! 😎

How often we must do that ''winding''? I saw a video witch a guy has the plastic cover moved and does the job from inside when the car is on the jack but i don't agree, yes it's faster way but leaving a hole opened means water-dust etc will go inside the drum easily.

@HappySkoda : As for the sound from the engine room which actually is from the clutch, when you press the pedal the bracket with the red arrow moves but when you release the pedal sometimes does not go back in his proper position at 100% so when the car is idling (for example in a red light) you hear a sound like ''kar-kar-kar" but when you instantly press a little bit the pedal (with N gear) the noise stops immediately. Put some lithium grease at the end of the wire (yellow arrow) ,this trick will help a lot. Today i removed about 0,5 litre of my coolant mixture and replace it with distilled water, i will do it after few days another one time because my coolant is too thick. Yes someone may say this increases the boiling point BUT increases also the time of the coolant reset to come to normal temperature (let's say it as ''cooling the coolant").

Believe it or not the programmer asked me if i have my old lambda, i said yes and he suggest to me to connect the old one back. My old has 80.000 Km of use so should i put him back for another 20.000 Km? (they say 100.000 is the limit for a Lambda sensor).

Bypasses the factory brake pump or it's additional? After the installment it's ''try and tighten'' procedure? How often we must do that ''winding''?

Update from ECU-chip: The old programme was deleted and a new one installed while the car was on the Dynamometer. Now the car from the first crank works (idling) one click smoother. The rpm do not raise and drop after a gear change so abruptly as before. I feel i have more torque on the low-middle rpm (not tested on higher rpm). The fuel consumption is ''one click" lower but it's too early to have a full conclusion, i will make a 100km tank filling, a zeroing of the TC-6 and after at least 100km i will have the verdict. Unfortunately due to the quarantine and the Covid-19 restrictions i could travel in Highway for about 1,5 year and the car was ''clogged". I had to make an adjustment to the coolant because i think i have it too thick. The Bosch lambda sensor is OK but the programmer insisted that i should keep the original.

1) The winding with the screwdriver on the drum brakes is like the tightening of the nut on the rod in small 50cc (παπακι) drum brake? You just improve the feeling, you don't raise the pressure but sometimes this is important. 2) the aftermarket pressure regulator on the brake pump works with the mathematical equation P=F/S and tightening the faucet raises the pressure or not?

How to Fix Computer Problems in Your Car with a Little Spray Cleaner.

Every time we change our battery or every time a mechanic disconnects the negative pole to work is the same. This may delete an error but if there is a problem (which only a Vcds can reveal) a myriad of that kind of ECU-reset won't fix the problem (speaking by my own experience). Inside the 2 ECU plugs are dozens of pins, maybe one or some of them had that green colour or corrosion, a contack cleaner (NOT a WD-40) spray will help the most.

Needs 2 persons inside a garage with the mechanic to know the procedure, if i ain't a Skoda guy i doubt if he take the responsibility to do it. With the aftermarket pressure regulator things are much easier, after the install everything is on the driver, test and click till you find what's the best result. If i remember correct the Felicia brake pump is 22mm so if we want to buy and aftermarket regulator what are the specifications? We measure it at bar? How is the stock and how much can we go with that regulator?

Can't he adjust the rear drums as the video above to be more ''immediate" ?

Update from ECU-chip: Tomorrow morning i will have my Trusty back with new programme, i am anxious to test it in city traffic where my Felicia had the problem and see if in the ''after the shift'' cold start will show the same phenomenon with high rpm. In Dynamometer where the tuner tested it things maybe look ideal but let's see on real conditions.

The inspection is done at the gas station, if a positive sample is found due to bureaucracy the fine is late to be applied, thete will be an appeal latter an examination of the 2nd sample then a court and after years the reduced (not the inicial) fine will be paid. Fuel mafia, check, government employees, politicians involvement, reduced or deleted fines etc it's a long and bitter story.

The driver? For many decades was the main responsible for fuel fraud because was the ''link'' from storage facility to the gas station and somewhere in the middle a quantity of fuel was changing hands and was replacing by other lower quality. It's a fact that some fuel tank drivers are honest and the illegality was from the gas station owner but till the coming of GPS and tracking the route from A to Z the guilty was the fuel tank driver.

My "high idle for long time" looks similar to yours but mine maybe it's from the Ecu-chip. Make a visit to a local repair-shop, there is no need to be a Skoda-VW one, for free he will make you a scanning via your OBD 1 port and maybe it's an error that cause you the problem. He wave for many decades an expression here in Greece which fits perfectly on this occasion: ''i am going to change his Oils"

OK, next time i see my nearest gas station to be refueled by a tank i will grab the owner from the collar and ask him to tell the truth, if he says that he is refuelling Spring and not Winter then ''he is done", he will pay the consequences. I will put the blame on him because for mine and @HappySkoda problem with high idling at cold start it's his gasoline fault !

The metal sound that you hear is from your clutch, not from inside the engine. If you open the hood and look down you will see the clutch metal wire, put some grease on the wire and move a little bit front-back the piece of metal piece (which has the hole from where the wire passes) the go inside and sit, press the clutch pedal few times (the engine is off). https://imgur.com/8CDqtVS The noise comes because when you release the pedal at last time (before you turn off the car) the wire is not turned 100% full back, so pressing one time the pedal you "collect the surplus" (μαζευεις το μποσικο) and it's OK.

How To Adjust Your Drum Brakes.