D.FYLAKTOS

The way that the needle moves up and down for me shouts ''throttle" You should clean the central part of the throttle much better (i suppose you use cleaner spray) and spray contact cleaner to the plug of the throttle and as the cover is out spray some WD-40 to the accelerator wire. Your air filter is in good condition? 12.6 V are with cables on and key off or just without cables as is in the shelf?

You are right, when the internet came (and the auto forums) the situation changed, the sad thing is that there are not many Felicia here plus those few that they have them are older age and don't care about many things so you can not rely on them for informations. The tuning magazines don't write about Felicia, many new mechanics don't now many about them and the only source is forum like this because even in 2 Greek Skoda forum you won't find members with Felicia, everybody has Fabia-Octavia or newest models. The lowest here was many years ago -4 'C, usually we have 8-10 'C for winter morning and snows very rarely. About 12 years ago my throttle had a problem and the scanner show it, when i installed the new my mechanic run the scan tool, erase and error and sine then OK. I can not "put my hand over the fire" if the chip block some error codes but i have changed so many things that i wonder what can be wrong now? (i don't have change the gear box and the crank sensor)

Bosch. No it's the stock, maybe there is a leak from here? I have tested 3 times with 3 different instruments in 2 different garage-shops, no code errors. Even today with colder weather my Felicia turn to 850 rpm in few seconds, in the basement parked for 8 hours with much better temperatures (and not so cold ''metals") took 3:40+ second for two times. It's the density of air the problem? Many times this way: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/?app=core&module=system&controller=content&do=find&content_class=forums_Topic&content_id=499344&content_commentid=5603362 This will not raise the fuel consumption and increase the wear of the cylinder bore in a cold motor?

Mejor de esta forma.

Yes but Felicia's motor is an old design and the manufacturer suggests semi synthetic 10W-40. I took the risk to put 5W-40 but i heard the motor more ''noisy" while idling and i was afraid that i may do some kind of damage due to the tolerance that this old motor has. Back those days i wasn't member in any forum and i had no information than the Haynes manual so it was a risk for me to take such a decision and continue use it. Sorry but i have mention it many times and i thought you knew it. My car is modified in many sectors (motor-suspension-wheels-insulation-lights-interior etc) but with caution and no exaggerations. My problem is that after spring of 2018 (with all the modification installed years ago) suddenly started to have much more fuel consumption (in city driving only) than previous. ____________________________ Cold start test: Yesterday morning the car was parked outside all night long, he had light rain and cold here with 12 'C, i wanted to count the time that the motor will return from 1100 rpm to 850 rpm Turn the key and pushed the time's button on the smartphone but after few seconds my Felicia was ready to go ! I started driving nice and easy and when arrived at work i park it again in the same spot as previous time, 5 floors below. After i finished my shift i turned the key and my Felicia needed 3:40 minutes to come back to normal 850 rpm and the question is WHY? Out with cold air was ready after few seconds and later in the basement with higher temperature took so long? The ''metals" were cold because she was outside all night long and after 8 hours those ''metals" needed so much time? Maf, λ sensor, temperature sensor etc are new so why the motor needs more time to get warmed when the conditions are better?

Yes but: if there was a leak on the vacuum he couldn't understand it from the brake pedal? A dirty throttle sign is noticeable from the non-stable idling when the car stops in the traffic light (the needle drops sharply and comes back).

Because they are made for sport-racing use and not for every day, they don't have the additives of other oils. They are red colour and after a while you can hear the valves "ticking" plus pustons-bores became redish. I have done once test with 5W-40 oil but i wasn't happy and i stop it. For the last 15 years i use 10W-40 only. From 2018 i have made many ECU resets, battery rest, sensor plug and unplug tries etc bur i haven't reach the fuel consumption of the past. I hane the ECU chipped about 17 years ago and maybe there is a "bug" on the programme or needs to be updated or rhe ECU's cold start sector has problem or...i don't know what else to do !

Few months back i had a problem with the solenoid switch, turn the key nothing, turn the key OK crank. This ''game'' of ''i make contack-i do not'' continued 3-4 times in different days and one morning stopped completely and the car stayed motionless. The starter motor by the way was in excellent condition.

After the 2018 trying to solve the problem i changed the 3 sensors (2 of them were in bad shape) I correct the valves gap (was wrong) and i have found a mistake on the spark plugs reference = bad fuel combustion and bad mileage. The fuel consumptoin was improved plus the acceleration, the only thing that remained was the behaviour on the cold start. I began with the factory oil, then semisynthetic (i was inside the quarantee period so i took whatever the Skoda authorized mechanic put) but later i turned to synthetics (with one mistake with Motul Ester oil) as Valvoline and for years i had Amsoil. Then i put Castrol seminynthetic but i regret it, i didn't like the noise of the engine plus in higher rpm when i was driving ''sport style'' in mountain roads. Now i have Motul Technosynthese and i have noticed a difference with previous Castrol oil and today i will do another ''parking test'' with timer beside. I already have done another one when i was coming to work (the car was outside in cold weather) and i will have another one at weekend when i will travel in national road after so many months. The moment of truth is near....

Remove the + and the - cables from the battery poles Gentle pull out the pastic safeties of the 2 plugs of the ECU Remove the plus and spray them with contact cleaner, NOT with WD-40 Wait till they dry and put them back gently (the pins are prone to bent) Connect the + pole and then the - Turn the key to 1st scale and wait 1 minute Take off the key, insert it turn, wait till you hear the ''clack'' from the relay and start the engine. Let it idle for a while and then drive normally for few kilometres. This video plus another one i have post it when i was searching for the fuel pressure Read my post for this, will help you to check the pressure number of the regulator. By the way your mechanic has checked the engine starter inside? Nevertheless a service on that will help to avoid future problems.

Yes but: 3 different scanning tools (laptop, portable VCDS and OBD11) in 2 garage-shops never manage to find two crucial things: a wrong valve gap plus a non good spark plug compustion.

Have tou ever made a reset to your Ecu?

Suddenly in city (traffic) my Felicia started to have much more fuel consumptipn than all the other years. Especially from starting point till the temperature comes up to the propel lever i felt that something was going wrong. Smell (fumes) and sort of white smoke much more time than it should be. TC-6 is a board computer, among others shows the instant fuell consumption no matter if it's idle or top speed. You can see mine here: Maf-Lamda-temperature temperature sensor are new, throttle is clean,battery is good, valves and spark plugs are ok. I "raise" my Felicia with synthetic oil so maybe she don't like the semisynthetic that i was using for 2 years. 😋

For sure nothing is now as it was when i bought it but yesterday i done another test. The car was on the parking P10, turn the car on wait 15 sec, engage 1st gear and let it roll alone, the car start moving rolling to P7, P5, P3 (i don't touched the pedal) and when i reached the exit i let it steady to idle in purpose The needle was on 1100 rpm, i waited and when it dropped to 850 the timer on my cellphone shown 3:44 minutes, isn't that too much? Service, maintenance, repairs etc have been with a lot of attention and VAG code parts, no sloppy work. Any upgrades were till 2018, suddenly my car needs a lot of time to get warm (thus the little smoke on the first traffic light) and that means fuel consumption. The TC-6 shown 2,6 litres per hour when the car started and after 3,44 minutes shown 0,9 which is one click before the 0,8 litre per hour (that's the number when the car is warm and the idle is 850 rpm).

The needle rise up at 1100 rpm as it should be but the problem is that it takes too much time to lower at 850 rpm which is the proper limit. You will say just wait 20 sec and then start driving the car, yes but: I have made 3 times a test, the car was on a parking 5 floors below earth and the temperature of course was not as 12 'C as is outside the road but one clich higher. I started the car, waited 15 sec and engage the 1th gear, the car started to roll (the rpm were about 1100) and without touching the pedal started rolling to the exit, it moved 4 floors then exited (thanfully no traffic) and still rolled byhimself without me touching the pedal !!! I reached the end of the block, i accelerate gently to 2nth gear and when i stopped in the traffic light i noticed smoke coming from the exhaust wich means the fumes were still cold. When the traffic light turn to green i started, 2nth gear and as i reached the end of a small uphill then in the next traffic light the idle was 850 rpm. Something is going on and i don't know what, it takes too much time from the 1100 rpm to drop down to 850 rpm.

This is a photo from a relative video (Should You Warm Up Your Car Before Driving? ) and i want to ask: those very important moments (from the time that the key turns on till the time that the temperature reaches the proper point) the synthetic oil is better than the semi-synthetic for our Felicia? Nice and easy driving, no sudden acceleration etc so with which oil our Old car will has less problems as engine wear, increased fuel consumption, etc?

Isn't this bad for your catalytic converter?

Yes as an old 2 stroke rider i agree plus that was an "ace" for them when they racing against 4 stroke bikes because those in downshift a small bounche on the rear wheel. In my TC-6 with 3-4-5th gear on when i release the acceleration pedal and let the car roll i see 00 on the lcd.

The term in Greek for such exaggerations "for show off" in every sector was for over a century (and some times still is) the "Gyfties" which means "Gypsie thing". I spoke for old cars with 4 gears and carburator. I have seen it numerus times when i was kid and even today some drivers with 50cc motorcycles use it. From 3rd gear turn to N let the motorcycle roll to a downhill or a boulevard and one click before the traffic light they press and engage again the 3rd gear.

At 1:16 says about a 24 year old car, a Toyota Celica. I press the clutch and when it cranks i let him, they have told me that this reduces the load at the ignition time.

Code 6U0 919 501 B Blue ring for hot climates.

Ricer car is the term in english (slang). At the 70's-80's i remember that the taxi drivers at the downhill or in the highway they put the Neutral for few seconds and the car was rolling with his own speed, that was a trick of that era for gas economy.

16V sticker on an old 8 valve car, turbo sticker or turbo sound devices on the tail pipe, GTi stickers, plastic discs as rear brake disks etc.

You mean the Crank sensor? This one is a "Do not touch" sensor, you must not remove it without a serous reason or overtighten it. One guy try to use it as an Antitheef measure and that cause him huge problems.

@KenONeill : The type of engine oil plays till that time a crucial part or no?