D.FYLAKTOS

@nta16 : No problem, the more you digging for some things the more you learn. Articles like this gave me the idea to look more for the air intake section, an extra fog light that i have added beside the factory fog light i think restricts the incoming air somehow. I have to do some corrections.

@Joob : So finally we have Case Closed?

Things in Athens especially close to the centre are far more difficult than other cities. Finding a parking space is from difficult to impossible.If you find it, it will be just enough to fit your car.If you put it near the sidewalk you will scratch the rims, if you put it outside then a truck-jeep-bus will break your mirror or will scratch your door. Other times the place is so narrow that you have to ride on the sidewalk. At night things are even more difficult because you can not see well through the mirrors but also because the drivers behind you honk if you are late. Everything is under pressure, traffic, frequent touching of bumpers, very often repairs on the roads (so then there are patches that protrude), many potholes etc. Things like in the movies with shiny cars and chrome rims parked comfortable in the side of a wide road are just fantasies in Athens that's why it's very often to see scratched rims (some guys paint them often with spary or Plasti Dip) or see talking of ''how are the sides of your tyre, soft or hard?'' in auto-forums.

Only from start in the basement 5 floors below where the air is less and restricted flow than outside. I posted the article for informational purpose. 😎

Is in my mind but according to my theory: I will have better grip in the dry and better braking, i will have worse braking in the wet and greater hydrolysis, i will have better acceleration but a small lose in final speed, i will probably have more gasoline consumption. Am i right or no? I would like to hear your opinion. If you are living in a big city and you park your car outside then at least 2 times per day (house to work and work to house) you have to put your car close to pavement, except if you are a rich guy and you have a private parking. Especially at night it's inevitable that your tyre will touch the pavement and when other cars are waiting behind you and you are in a hurry. City drivers have scratched rims too for this reason.

They are not for sport driving, they are soft on the sides which means problem while parking in city (pavements). Me previous Potenza were very good in rain but they needed some time to get warmed, more than Michelin.

My Felicia has ECU-chip, BMC filter,custom exhaust manifold-pipes-muffler and tail pipe. 320mm new steering wheel, 3mm lowered springs, Koni shock absorbers, strut bar, anti-roll bar, new top-mount and 14 inch Tecnomagnesio rims. I use my car for few Km daily route at city (work-house) ,for sport driving at mountain roads and when i am on the highway a speed of 100-120 Km is fine for me. I hesitate to turn to 165 as i had when i bought my Trusty plus the expenses to buy new 13 inch rims.

Here are my Toyo today, i have them since 2016.

The clock is ticking and i am ready to oped a champagne. 🥂

From the factory 1.3 i had 165/70R13 79T 4.5Jx13 and i thought that the next choice was 175/60R14 79T 5.5Jx14, in Greece you can find some options https://www.skroutz.gr/c/578/lastixa-autokinitou.html?keyphrase=175%2F60%2F14&o=175%2F60%2F14 Unfortunately the Bridgestone RE88 and the Michelin Pilot Exalto (i have use both of them in 175/60/14) can not be found, now i have Toyo Proxes CF-2 175/60/14 (actually i have used 6 tyres) and i am on the search for something else. In 175/65/14 in Greece the options are more https://www.skroutz.gr/c/578/lastixa-autokinitou/f/560126/epivatiko.html?keyphrase=175%2F65%2F14&o=175%2F65%2F14&custom_range[718][min]=14&custom_range[718][max]=14 i am interesting for Fuel index mainly (we don't have too much rain here) and the price is not a problem. As for the transformation i am hesitate a bit https://tire-calc.com/comparison/175-65-r14-and-175-60-r14-inch/ because i don't know what's going to happen with fuel consumption and there will be a confuse with odometer, the oil change intervals etc. I don't want to go to 185 for fuel consumption and braking factors.

@Joob Let's hope that your problem will be solved tomorrow morning, best of wishes. 🙏

My dear Briskodians, i am interesting to buy for my Felicia a new set of tyres, now i am on 175/60/14 and i want to ask your opinion or your impressions (if you have use them) for the Hankook Kinergy Eco 2 K435. Their index is: Fuel: C, Wet: B, Noise: 70dB and what i like is that they have 3 grooves (Toyo has 4) which may means something for contact with asphalt or pressure under successive turns (sometimes i drive in mountain roads a little bit Sport style).

My Car Has a Rough Idle When Cold DAN FERRELL https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/My-Car-Has-a-Rough-Idle-When-Cold Very interesting article with lot of informations.

Yes, depends from the quality of the material, with cheap low quality steel will have a problem. On the other hand reduces the temperature inside the engine bay and the floor unders the driver's feet especially those hot summer days here in Greece.

On the left is the air intake from the bumper (fresh air) On the right is the adaptor for the hose which brings hot air from the exhaust manifold to help the car on winter cold startings. In the middle is the cover of the mechanism of the clapet that i mention before. Since i changed the factory filter and the whole exhaust (plus i wrapped with titanium heat tape) the clapet was gone, it's 20 years now.

This shield has been removed when i change my manifold exhaust, there is no hose for 20 years now. That adaptor has been sealed so not hot air from the engine bay was coming inside the filter box. There was a clapet from the factory, on cold starts he brought hot air from the manifold excaust to filter for better starting (emmisions).

Update: After i finished a trip of 444 Km (few cold starts and everything was fine) i parked the car on the road and Saturday morning i started the car, the idle was good as the previous days and i said to myself ''Ok we solve the problem". Monday morning things were not so good, the idle was stayed a little bit longer at 1100 rpm and later when i finished my shift (the car was parked 5 floors below at the basement) i turned the key and i saw the same sad phenomenon. By instinct i pop-up the hood and i was surprised ! From the side of the filter box the plastic adaptor was missing which means that more air than it should be was coming inside and this affecter the idle badly. Maybe from vibrations was removed from his position, touched the belt which throw him away and got stuck front of the pulley, thank God he didn't dropped inside otherwise i would have a major problem. Here it is from another angle, as you can see was touching the pulley a little bit. Tonight i will have another cold start test just to calm myself.

Your spare keys are from factory or from a local locksmith which said that he already has ''programmed" them? The video is with the good-old keys? Have you ever inspect the main locker on the steering wheel column? Are all the contacts OK? Have you ever spray Contact Cleaner on it? The idle on the video looks very good to me.

Motul specs say that can cove GL-4 too, i change the factory with this and i made another change recently. Some other brands with gear oil that cover both API GL-4 and GL-5 are the Castrol Transmax Universal GL4/GL5 75W-90 Liqui Moly GL4/GL5 75W-90 DIVINOL Synthogear Extra LS 75W-90

We are talking about the same gear oil MOTUL GEAR 300 75W-90 API GL-4/GL-5 MIL-L-2105D https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/gear-300-75w90 On the motor i started to use Motul Synthetic, i am very happy with it (as a beginning) on highway-sport driving in mountain roads and i tested it till 5000 rpm I am anxious because in cold starts early in the morning plus fuel consumption (outside city) did it fine but i have to wait till city driving plus starts from the parking at the basement (i don't want to see the 3:44 time as the Castrol did).

If your motor is hot and the fan is not spinning then doing the trick that @Papez told you you will see if the fan starts or not. If it starts them your fan switch has problem and must be replaced, if he starts not the put the plug back and do the same with the plug of the fan. Sometimes is the relay of the fan and in worst case the motor of the fan.

I use Motul Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4 (of course not the Competition or the LS) and i am very satisfied. 😉

I have try it, not so happy as i was with Amsoil synthetic. My first 2 gauges were old style analogic, one for battery voltage and one for water temperature. Later i installed others (once upon a time i had one for exhaust temperature). Those high 'C temperatures were due to a problem of my fan, once with his relay and the second with his motor so i replaced him.

Yes but it takes too much time, i am not a mechanic but i think is not engaged as it should be and spins more time ''freely" as a little bit ''loose".

You can buy a separate thermostat and keep the old plastic housing but i think it's better to buy the as set which means new plastic housing with thermostat installed inside together with a new gasket you will be fine. Look and example of mine (1.3 Felicia) , older thermostat damaged so i bought a set as this example: 3 inox bolts and nuts and you are OK.