D.FYLAKTOS

@Joob Let's hope that your problem will be solved tomorrow morning, best of wishes. 🙏

My dear Briskodians, i am interesting to buy for my Felicia a new set of tyres, now i am on 175/60/14 and i want to ask your opinion or your impressions (if you have use them) for the Hankook Kinergy Eco 2 K435. Their index is: Fuel: C, Wet: B, Noise: 70dB and what i like is that they have 3 grooves (Toyo has 4) which may means something for contact with asphalt or pressure under successive turns (sometimes i drive in mountain roads a little bit Sport style).

My Car Has a Rough Idle When Cold DAN FERRELL https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/My-Car-Has-a-Rough-Idle-When-Cold Very interesting article with lot of informations.

Yes, depends from the quality of the material, with cheap low quality steel will have a problem. On the other hand reduces the temperature inside the engine bay and the floor unders the driver's feet especially those hot summer days here in Greece.

On the left is the air intake from the bumper (fresh air) On the right is the adaptor for the hose which brings hot air from the exhaust manifold to help the car on winter cold startings. In the middle is the cover of the mechanism of the clapet that i mention before. Since i changed the factory filter and the whole exhaust (plus i wrapped with titanium heat tape) the clapet was gone, it's 20 years now.

This shield has been removed when i change my manifold exhaust, there is no hose for 20 years now. That adaptor has been sealed so not hot air from the engine bay was coming inside the filter box. There was a clapet from the factory, on cold starts he brought hot air from the manifold excaust to filter for better starting (emmisions).

Update: After i finished a trip of 444 Km (few cold starts and everything was fine) i parked the car on the road and Saturday morning i started the car, the idle was good as the previous days and i said to myself ''Ok we solve the problem". Monday morning things were not so good, the idle was stayed a little bit longer at 1100 rpm and later when i finished my shift (the car was parked 5 floors below at the basement) i turned the key and i saw the same sad phenomenon. By instinct i pop-up the hood and i was surprised ! From the side of the filter box the plastic adaptor was missing which means that more air than it should be was coming inside and this affecter the idle badly. Maybe from vibrations was removed from his position, touched the belt which throw him away and got stuck front of the pulley, thank God he didn't dropped inside otherwise i would have a major problem. Here it is from another angle, as you can see was touching the pulley a little bit. Tonight i will have another cold start test just to calm myself.

Your spare keys are from factory or from a local locksmith which said that he already has ''programmed" them? The video is with the good-old keys? Have you ever inspect the main locker on the steering wheel column? Are all the contacts OK? Have you ever spray Contact Cleaner on it? The idle on the video looks very good to me.

Motul specs say that can cove GL-4 too, i change the factory with this and i made another change recently. Some other brands with gear oil that cover both API GL-4 and GL-5 are the Castrol Transmax Universal GL4/GL5 75W-90 Liqui Moly GL4/GL5 75W-90 DIVINOL Synthogear Extra LS 75W-90

We are talking about the same gear oil MOTUL GEAR 300 75W-90 API GL-4/GL-5 MIL-L-2105D https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/gear-300-75w90 On the motor i started to use Motul Synthetic, i am very happy with it (as a beginning) on highway-sport driving in mountain roads and i tested it till 5000 rpm I am anxious because in cold starts early in the morning plus fuel consumption (outside city) did it fine but i have to wait till city driving plus starts from the parking at the basement (i don't want to see the 3:44 time as the Castrol did).

If your motor is hot and the fan is not spinning then doing the trick that @Papez told you you will see if the fan starts or not. If it starts them your fan switch has problem and must be replaced, if he starts not the put the plug back and do the same with the plug of the fan. Sometimes is the relay of the fan and in worst case the motor of the fan.

I use Motul Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4 (of course not the Competition or the LS) and i am very satisfied. 😉

I have try it, not so happy as i was with Amsoil synthetic. My first 2 gauges were old style analogic, one for battery voltage and one for water temperature. Later i installed others (once upon a time i had one for exhaust temperature). Those high 'C temperatures were due to a problem of my fan, once with his relay and the second with his motor so i replaced him.

Yes but it takes too much time, i am not a mechanic but i think is not engaged as it should be and spins more time ''freely" as a little bit ''loose".

You can buy a separate thermostat and keep the old plastic housing but i think it's better to buy the as set which means new plastic housing with thermostat installed inside together with a new gasket you will be fine. Look and example of mine (1.3 Felicia) , older thermostat damaged so i bought a set as this example: 3 inox bolts and nuts and you are OK.

It's better to buy then as a ''set" which means the thermostat already is inside the housing with a new gasket.

On the radiator is the fan switch, this says to the fan when it's time to start spinning and when to stop. He reads the coolant sensor after the thermostat had fully opened and had engraved on it the temperature range for example 80-85 'C. The first sensor (the one with the blue ring) reads the coolant temperature before the thermostat.

I have posted few months ago 2 videos, it's very easy for a mechanic to do it and with a manometer he also can check if the injectors have a leak. If your regulator had major problem the car wouldn't start or you would have so much fuel and the mixture would be ''reach" and the spark plugs would show this to you immediately. As for the starting video sound is a little bit ''weak" (like the battery has not enough power) and i don't like the way that the starter spins the last seconds.

The manual showed a chard with temperatures from +40 till -30 ' C and all the available SAE of that time, from 5W-50 till the 20W-50 API SG, VW 501 01 or VW 500 00 The mechanics suggest 10W-40 semi synthetic, no one told me for 5W-40 but i have tested it once and i didn't liked the sound. +47 'C was the hottest but the summer +41 'C or +42 'C is very common here. As for coolant, having problem i saw two times 110 'C and one almost touched the limit but i manage to avoid the ''boom". For a period i had this problem: but i manage to solve it and now the temperature is fine. I had an oil pressure gauge many years ago but i remove it because it's switch cause me some problems. I don't remember now the indications of that time. The latest week i returned to Synthetic 10W-40, the car starts much better and works better on light sport driving in mountain roads. I have done the same test (parking, 5 floors underground etc) and the car after few seconds returned to 850 rpm while the TC-6 was showing the right instant fuel consumption. I will never again change the oil type (Synthetic), maybe my Trusty loves it. 😘

I have the original back home, didn't had engraved the initials of NGK only the Skoda code. My Felicia passed with this new Bosch Lamda 2 emission tests, one was in a garage at April 2021 when i asked for it in purpose and the second was in mandatory inspection (department of transportation) August 2021. I have photo plus the printed numbers from DoT, in few days i would post them. One strange thing happened, early morning with temperature around 8 'C and lot of moisture, turned the key the car started with idle around 950 rpm, in few seconds dropped at 850 rpm and i start my jurney. Arrived after 45 minutes, done some jobs and when i entered my car with one click higher temperature i turned the key and the needle went at 1100 rpm but i didn't wanted to wait. I tapped the pedal once and i start rolling. Maybe my Trusty loves only morning cold startings.

Sorry gentlemen i am on the move, i write via my smartphone. I will answer soon as posible. I will post some photos too.

They suggest semi synthetic 10W-40 and some say 15W-40 because ''it's old motor with lot of tolerances" etc. If you say ''i am using 10W-40 Synthetic" some will say that there is no need, it's extra money spend, it's going to burned easily etc but maybe none of them has Felicia now. As for the 5W-40 they will say that it's too thin, the motor would be noisy etc. In the past there were some guys which racing with Felicia but is extremely difficult to find and ask them. Outside in the road i have no problem, maybe in closed areas as the parking at work due to the sparse-not dense air my Trusty is grouching. Very soon i will have the chance to test my TC-6 on a highway plus measure the fuel combustion while travelling.

Is this good or it's an exaggeration? Even on winter mornings?

This photo was not from a Felicia, was just for informational purposes. I use toothbrush and paintbrush with hog bristle to clean this item, many times some dust or residues does not let it close properly so more comes in the the idle is not as it should be. @Joob : Have you ever tested a small hose attached to the front of the pressure regulator? If that is not pushed front properly and it's loosen or damaged then you have an unstable idling because your vacuum does not work properly.

Here are a photo of how you throttle should like as clean: