D.FYLAKTOS

Yes but we don't speak about a 20VT 3rd stage 500HP Audi S3 he didn't ''go crazy" with the programme and after 17 years only a specific problem occurred and to be honest maybe a part of fault was mine (wrong valves gap, wrong spark plugs reference, very dirty MAP and Lamda etc).

How To Tune Cold Starts | Cold Start Performance As you can image all the above are ''chinese'' to me. He knows my car's problem with high fuel consumption at cold start and in the first kilometres in city driving, when my car is in normal 'C or when i am travelling-sport driving the MPG is excellent. Yesterday first of all we had an extensive conversation of the cold start symptoms and what i have change trying to fix the problem, one by one we check everything and he said next day he will check it on the Dynamometer plus "about 20 things". Today he telephone me and said that the problem is in a specific sector of the ECU, at noon he will receive another ECU and make his magic things or if there is a need he will wrote from the beginning a new programme. I can't explain things that i don't know or i am not sure that he will said to me with complete details, at the bottom line he is a pro, he gives a guarantee for his work and takes no money for that kind of repairs so it would be an ingratitude to start making questions of how he operates.

I am not an electrician but i have heard that the ECU has that kind of ''sector". First of all is obvious to me by the TC-6 and second i think via his laptop in dynamometer, emission analyser and his AFR gauge can understand that something goes wrong. Of course i don't know how he works but keep in mind that in year 1999 was the first of all in Greece which started to work with ECU-chips. https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/cold-starting/ Guys like him with 21+ years of experience in tuning do things that guys like me can not understand.

Update: Today the programmer told me that my ECU has a problem especially the ''cold start" chip that's why i burn too much fuel in the beginning of each route. Tomorrow another ECU will be installed to make some tests and let's hope that the problem will be solved.

Let's solve 🙏 the 2 years problem 😒 first and then we will see.

They are metal workers ''by experience" and not Mechanical Engineers, you are not present when they work thus the diameter isn't proper, the welding work is not good etc. When you discover the mistake? On the road (poor performance, high fuel consumption) and when you lift the car for other cause and you see what they have done.

I thought it many times but maybe in my next change (after i solve the problem with the city fuel consumption).

I change them before 2 years ago, the previous had some not so good curves and the diameter was 48mm so the new technician told me that he would make me a new set at 45mm.

I didn't touched the pedal, the rev jumped to 1100 and stayed there for 3+ minutes, then dropped to 850. That's my problem for more than a year, when the car's motor has ''cooled" for few hours then i have this phenomenon.

Weather (rain, moisture, sun) is different, the roads here are more slippery than yours, the quality of asphalt isn't the same, the geometry on the curbs isn't good as in yours, he have more road patches and potholes etc. We read reviews yes but we are very sceptical because a Uniroyal RainExpert maybe it's good tyre for Scotland or another country with heavy rainy days but here in Greece it would be a failure (noise, wear, fuel consumption). Nor NanoEnergy 3 nor the Proxes Comfort of Toto have 175/60 tyres on 14 wheels.

Here is another video of last night just few seconds till the needle drops to 850 rpm, now is about 1000. https://i.imgur.com/6liowjL.mp4 It's 9:14 and before the minute close and goes to 9:14 the idle was as it should be so there is a gap of 3+ minutes, for that time the idle is 1100-1000 which is not good. I can not find the solution. 😠

You must click on the sound icon to turn the Sound ON.

The video is with sound, i uploaded in purpose with this so everyone can here the motor when it starts. I used Best Camera application with macro, it was night and i was in a hurry to return home. Today the car is in the ECU-programmer so last night i had only one chance to take a video.

The tyres will come with courier's truck which means tremendous cost for shipping plus they will leave it to your door, then you have to carry those tyres to your car and then to a local tyre-shop. You will pay 25 euro for installation and of course the owner will stare at you, if something goes wrong you are alone, everybody will say ''you take them, your responsibility". If the DOT is not recent what happens? You will return them back to Germany? Nah.. I installed Brembo disks about 17 years ago, had for many years Ferodo brake pads and recent i turned to Brembo after an incident. Many cars here after a rain and if the owner don't move them for few days got some light ''rust" but after 2 brakes this disappeared. Having fuel consumption ONLY in city about 12.4-14 ltr/100 Km is unacceptable, for that kind of MPG i am concern, this means that something is wrong and i waist money in gasoline plus this ruins my motor. We use mainly Summer tyres here, very few use All Weather. Toyo Proxes are given as ''premium" and Hankook Kinergy Eco as ''factory installed", Toyo are a liitle bit on the ''Sport side". After about 17 years in 175/60 it's difficult to turn to 165/65, it may be more comfortable in the city but for Sport driving i doubt.

Here is mine, night 9:11 o'clock in a basement 5 floors below earth with much higher temperature than outside but with air not so thick. See the needle, it goes about 1100 rpm and stays there for at least 3+ minutes. https://i.imgur.com/Yy9NZgh.mp4 and look what's happening after those minutes. Everything goes to normal, i think i going to ''snap'' and start breaking things here.

In city i buy from brand gas stations and not from private ones. In country only from gas stations that i have informations from locals otherwise i avoid then. Those in the city i have checked them so many times with my car or my motorcycle and keep in mind that on the net we talk each other or read the test results so if a gas station do something wrong then next day is on the "black list". It's a matter or time for a gas station to establish a quality "name" and in case which is "bad" will start losing customers day by day till it close.

I am on the smartphone now, tomorrow noon i wiil be on pc and i will answer.

From the exhaust manifold till the end mine are 45mm, some new drivers ask or believe some others from tuning magazines and put 48mm which is wrong. Soon they discover their mistake but it's too late, they lost money plus HP.

From the back of the catalyst till the end isn't the same?

I have Koni orange shock absorber with Apex lowering spings Strut brace and lower Arm bar Brembo brakes and brake pads (factory dimensions) with metal brake hoses. Felicia is an old model. Yes but this has 2 problems, 1st is the cost of shipping and second there is no quarantee that you will recieve a ''fresh'' (with recent DOT) tyre and not one which was in the shelf for years.

Tomorrow morning i will be at the ECU-chip repair shop. My Felicia has the same problem with @HappySkoda but ONLY at the second cold start of the day (the car is on the parking, cooled for 6-7 hours). I was blaiming the air (5 floors beneath earth) but i am not sure for this.

How many mm is the diameter of the exhaust pipes?

I have 14 inch rims 5.5j with 175/60 tyre, in the past i had factory 13 inch rims with 165/70 Matador tyres. My Toyo are the CF22.

Bad news for the Hankook Kinergy Eco 2 K435, in the beginning they told me to wait about 10 days then at least a month due to the delay from Covid and Holidays. I can not wait so much time, rainy days are coming and my 5+ years old Toyo are not in good shape to face that.

Any news since then?