PhilTheGeek

I think it's one of the Scandinavian countries that you need to set the Central Electronics (module 9) to. That won't affect the digital speedo function as that's set in the instruments.

If it's off eBay and doesn't come with a code then it's a stolen unit. Otherwise if it's off eBay and does come with a code then: a. If it's second hand then it's stolen b.If it claims to be new it's probably stolen unless when you get it there is no evidence of screw heads against the four flanges. Ask for the code from the seller. If they can't provide one then at the very least start a dispute and if it's a UK based seller then get the police involved.

As you're in Scotland it's not those A***** C**** muppets trying to fix it, is it?

I've done a retrofit of the factory sensors on my vRS estate and my dad's vRS hatchback. Not a job for the feint hearted. I had to remove, cut holes in and refit the bumper, remove all the plastic trim panels on the LHS from the boot forward to the dashboard, remove the centre console to tap into the CANBus on the DSG gearstick and then tap into the fusebox wiring for the power feed. After all this and some VCDS coding it works brilliantly with my retrofitted Columbus SatNav and my dad's Swing radio.

Number 4 does look rather too close to theoretical max.But to get that high I'd expect the engine to be running very rough as that cylinder would have to be hugely coked up. Do you know if your gauge reads accurately? Was the gauge seated and sealed properly for cylinders 1 to 3?

Compression ratio is 10:1 so you should be seeing a maximum of 147PSI. Exact figures are less important than balance.Look for <5% variation between cylinders. Any one cylinder at less than 80% of the highest one probably has a reasonably major defect.

There are a reasonable range of options. Stick with the same 3 or 4 spoke wheel that you've currently got and choose one with or without an airbag (again to match what you've got). You can safely upgrade from plastic to leather or leather to sports. Without a drivers airbag 3 Spoke Wheel Leather: 1Z0419091P Sports: 5J0419091A 4 Spoke Wheel Plastic: 1Z0419091M Leather: 1Z0419091N With a drivers airbag 3 Spoke Wheel Leather: 3T0419091H Sports: 5J0419091B 4 Spoke Wheel Plastic: 3T0419091 Leather: 3T0419091G

Avoid the ebay ones, they're generally fake, have no support and only work with one (old) version of the software. Either stump up for a genuine one (Micro-CAN, Hex-USB+CAN or HEX-NET) or go and checkout the VCDS map http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/ and ask another member who has a cable if they can do some adjustments for you. I've got a genuine Hex-USB+CAN.

Providing it's not so heavy you can't drive it safely then why worry? It's booked in to get it fixed and you won't be paying.

Country code needs to be changed using VCDS. Settings/Units etc. via Maxidot having done the change using VCDS.

If you've got the additional three buttons on the wiper stalk then you've got MaxiDot otherwise you've got "the other option"

They're great fun. Get the chassis number before you commit and take it to your nearest Skoda dealer/service garage and get a printout. Mine had the breather mod and new piston rings rather than a new engine. It uses around 0.5l/1000miles which I regard as acceptable. It's a performance car after all and in my younger years I accepted double that oil consumption on a far less stressed engine. The vocal few make it sound worse than it really is. A new engine is many thousands of pounds, an extra half litre of oil is about 4 pounds and even if this knackers the catalytic converter they are only a few hundred quid from a main dealer.

I've not noticed any significant changes in the way it behaves, other than the changes are now smoother (and a little quicker) which I've put down to the software update and the associated clutch bite relearn which I'd been meaning to force with my VCDS. On roads I know, I've regularly use the left paddle to get it into a gear for the exit and then on exit I hold the right paddle to force it back into auto. When I'm feeling ultra lazy I don't bother and the post campaign behaviour is much the same as before.

The Skoda genuine rubber liners are seriously tough. They have a lip on them so unless the wet kit is absolutely drenched then they'll hold it away from the carpet. The lip should also stop most of the dog hair getting to the boot floor carpet but you'll still have to deal with it on the back of the rear seatback.

I've quoted the part numbers for the cruise control kit which includes the stalks and the loom. If you're after upgrading to cruise and maxidot it shouldn't matter which you do first. I'm not sure what parts you'll need to order to upgrade to maxidot but at the very least it'll be a new instrument cluster and then maybe a wiring loom and/or a new CECM/BCM.

Whichever of the later model radios you fit you'll need a CANBus adapter for everything to work properly. And unfortunately they don't start cheap (£130+)

Part number for vehicles after week 22 of 2012 is 5J2054690A (or 5J2054690 if the vehicle doesn't have Maxidot)

Chelmsford area and have done this on an Octavia MkIII VRS before. Happy to help.

The Amundsen has bluetooth built in to it. The Columbus needs the separate phone kit (that I linked to) which fits under the RH front seat.

I don't think any of the Columbus units have bluetooth. Mine's a 2014 DAB one and it definitely doesn't. You'll need to add one of these: http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/bluetooth-kits/oem-5j0035729-skoda-fabia-vw-polo/

This is the reset procedure: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/7-Speed_Direct_Shift_Gearbox_(DSG/0AM). Fully aware that it's not a recall.

I'm assuming it's a hatchback not a saloon. The part numbers for the six parts you'll need are: 5J6 861 343 B 5J6 861 344 B 5J6 861 343 C 5J6 861 344 C 5J6 867 145 A 47H 5J6 867 146 A 47H Top 4 are the guide pieces which fit into the slots and the bottom 2 the actual box dividers that clip over the guide pieces. The guide pieces should be under a quid each and the dividers should be about 3 quid each.

Got my letter last friday (identical to FurbyTom's). My name and address are exactly as the DVLA have them so I'm almost certain that Skoda have been contacting DVLA for the current owner. It went in today for the work and I checked that it wasn't my local garage who initiated it. It's all done now and if anything the reset has made for smoother changes. I hadn't got round to plugging in VCDS and doing a reset, at least it saved me that effort.

Outer joint part number is 6R0 498 099A ( or 6R0 498 099AX for an exchange one) Inner joint part number is 1K0 498 103A ( or 1K0 498 103AX for an exchange one) The part numbers are different from every other Fabia II model. And no matter which model they're ^£"*%$ expensive from Skoda.

If it's still under warranty then shout lots. Not had good reports about that particular franchise.......